Friday, March 25, 2016

The Difference Between Chinking and Caulking

All log homes need sealant to close the gaps between log courses. Because even machine milled logs won’t lie perfectly flush against one another, these sealants are necessary to prevent water intrusion and provide insulation. These sealants typically fall into one of two categories – chinking and caulking. Today we’ll compare the applications for both of these sealant types.

Chinking


This is the type of sealant that has been traditionally used in log homes for centuries. It forms the characteristic white bands between the courses in older log homes. Whereas chinking was originally a Portland cement-based mortar, today it is an acrylic compound designed for extra elasticity and adhesion. Before chinking can be applied, a backer rod must be placed in the space between the log courses. This ensures a firm seal between the joints. Next, Chinking is applied over the backer rod, filling in the remaining gaps between the logs. The width of the chinking in a given log home will depend on its construction and the aesthetic preferences of the owners.

Caulking


This type of sealant is only used in modern, machine-milled log homes. It’s very similar to the caulk you’ve probably used in your bathroom or kitchen. Whereas chinking is designed to fill broad gaps between courses, caulk is used to seal narrow gaps. Likewise, it doesn’t require backer rods. The caulking in a machine-milled home is more or less invisible from a distance. Caulk is also more elastic than chinking.


Whatever type of sealant you need for your, Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. can help. Browse our inventory online, or give us a call today for more information!  

Monday, March 21, 2016

Choosing a Tenon Cutter



Rustic log furniture is increasing in popularity, and many people are opting to build DIY log furniture and railings at their own cabin or home. There are a number of options available when choosing a tenon cutter. There may be other brands available on the market, but this comparison will focus on E-Z Tenon Cutter, Lumberjack Tenon Cutters, and Northwest Manufacturing Tenon Cutters. Scope, Style, and Size are three considerations you may use to help choose the right tool:

-Scope
The first consideration is the scope of work or project. If there is a plan to make log railings or furniture as a business venture, then purchasing a higher quality but more expensive tool may be the right choice. If this is just a weekend project at home and the tool may seldom be used again, then a minimal investment would be preferable.

Weekend project:
Lumberjack Home Series, Lumberjack Commercial Series, or E-Z Tenon Cutter

Mid-range value:
Lumberjack Industrial Series or Lumberjack Pro-Series

In it for the long haul:
Northwest Manufacturing Tenon Cutter

Important to note is that all the tenon cutters have blades that can be both sharpened and replaced. So regardless of which brand is chose and how much wear-and-tear the tools actually get, it's possible to keep the cutting edge sharp with blade honing and eventual blade replacement.

-Style
The profile style a tenon cutter leaves on the wood stock can vary by brand and series. Some people prefer to see the two logs butt directly against one another, while others prefer to see the taper from the full stock down to the tenon peg inserted into the other log.

90º: E-Z Tenon Cutter 90
60º: Lumberjack Commercial Series, Lumberjack Industrial Series
45º: E-Z Tenon Cutter 45
Radius/Radius Shoulder: Lumberjack Home Series, Lumberjack Pro-Series

90-degree shoulder (E-Z 90 shown)
60-degree taper (Industrial Series shown)
Radius Shoulder (Home Series shown)


It should be noted that while many people leave the 60º or 45º taper visible for aesthetic purposes, some prefer to use a countersink. Tenon Cutter Countersinks are used to cut the funnel shaped impression into the post after drilling with a self-feed bit, to accept the taper of the log rail. This permits the ability to obtain tighter fits on furniture or to give a stronger shoulder fit on rails.

-Size
The size of the wood stock and the desired size of the tenon are two considerations when choosing a cutter. If one was to pick just one size of tenon cutter, 1-1/2” is probably most versatile. For most furniture having a 1” and a 2” tenon cutter would be preferable. Some projects with larger or smaller logs might require larger or smaller tenon cutters.
The E-Z Tenon Cutter gives an adjustable option to get a variety of sizes out of one tool. With other tenon models, you would want one, two, three, or more tenon cutters to use for cutting different components of the log project.

-Summary
Most of the tenon cutters on the market will have options of size to fit the project. The three considerations listed above, plus a summary of each tenon cutter brand listed below may help to narrow your choice:

90º or 45º E-Z Tenon Cutter: Steel and aluminum construction.
Pros: Adjustable tool that can cut a variety of sizes (1” – 2-1/2”). Dual blade for 90º model. Comparatively inexpensive.
Cons: Requires an extra step of drilling a 3/8” pilot hole. The final product may be a rougher cut and require some sanding. Single blade on 45º model.


Lumberjack Commercial Series & Home Series: Die cast from A380 aluminum with powder coated finish.
Pros: Inexpensive option. Self-centering design. Dual blades that cut twice as fast as ordinary tenon cutters and generate less heat for long lasting service. Blades of hardened steel. 1/2 inch steel shank is threaded for easy replacement. Lifetime warranty for body and shank. Blades are covered for 90 days from the date of purchase for breakage under normal working conditions.
Cons: No IN-SIGHT measurement system (viewing slot on side) to monitor length of tenon or to insert quick-stop bolt. Fewer size options.


Lumberjack Industrial Series & Pro-Series: CNC machined from solid 6061 aircraft aluminum.
Pros: Self-centering design. Dual blades that cut twice as fast as ordinary tenon cutters and generate less heat for long lasting service. Blades of hardened steel. 1/2" steel shank is threaded for easy replacement. Patent pending IN-SIGHT measurement system of slots and radial grooves at 1/2" intervals for measurement of tenon length during cutting. Lifetime warranty for body and shank. Blades are covered for 90 days from the date of purchase for breakage under normal working conditions.
Cons: Higher cost than Commercial Series or Home Series.

Pros: High quality construction, long lasting. Adjustable shaft to allow custom sizing of the length of the tenons. Two high carbon steel blades.
Cons: Higher cost. Larger drill (3/4") required for some sizes.

The details given should help to make a choice when selecting the right tenon cutter for the work being done. If there are any other questions about choosing or using a tenon cutter, give us a call at 1-800-359-6614, or contact us through our website here.

Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc
www.loghelp.com
1-800-359-6614

Friday, March 11, 2016

Which Packing Cup is best?



When using an Albion caulk gun for bulk caulking or chinking application, leather is a one-type-fits-all material for packing cups and is included with the gun. The packing cups are the plunger-type component that pulls the sealant into the barrel of the gun and pushes it back out. In some situations one may choose to replace the leather packing cups with a different type of material. Here is a general guide for when to use which cup:

#21-1 Leather:  Low friction, tough and durable, excellent chemical resistance.  Soak in motor oil to maintain.  May swell then break down when used with water based materials.  Oil more frequently or choose another packing cup for acrylics. 

#21-7 Impregnated Leather:  Similar to soft leather cups but stiffened with wax to reduce water absorption and blow-by.

#21-16 Nitrile Rubber:  Good seal, elastic, moderate friction.  Excellent for water-based materials.  Preferred by chinkers.  Not recommended for use with solvent-based materials.       

#21-26 Nylon:  (Not shown in image) Springy, moderate friction.  Better chemical resistance than Hytrel.

#21-24 Teflon:   Very low friction, excellent chemical resistance.  Be careful not to nick or bend out of shape.  Expensive.  Excellent for bulk or sausage packes.

#21-24 Hytrel:  (Stiff "H") Higher friction, good chemical resistance.  Sharp edge makes it excellent for sausages.

Thursday, February 25, 2016

Factors to Consider When Choosing a Wood Species

Factors to Consider When Choosing a Wood Species
A log home is defined, both aesthetically and functionally, by the type of wood it’s constructed of. Different species of woods have unique properties that make them better suited to certain environmental conditions. Some wood species excel at resisting rot, while others offer superior insulation. Your choice of wood will depend on both personal preference and practical considerations. The good news is there’s no single right answer. The bad news is the list of options can seem downright overwhelming. By identifying what properties are most important to you, however, you can whittle down that list and make your decision easier. Let’s start with the obvious.

Aesthetics


Let’s be honest – one of the reasons people like log homes so much is simply because they look good. Likewise, there’s no shame in choosing a wood species based in part on its appearance. Bear in mind that certain species change in appearance as they age. Wood preservatives can have an effect on the appearance of your log home as well.

R-Value


This is the measure of thermal resistance in building materials. The higher the R-value of a wood species, the better it will insulate your home. If you live in a particularly hot or cold climate, a wood species with a high R-value will help you to regulate the temperature inside your home. Species such as Northern white cedar and white pine have particularly high R-values.

Decay Resistance


Did you know that wood produces natural toxins to combat fungi growth and burrowing insects? These toxins continue to work even after a tree has been felled and hewn into timbers. Some species, such as Western red cedar, have especially high concentrations of these toxins, making them more decay-resistant. If you live in a very wet or heavily-wooded area, a decay-resistant species might be a good option. If you choose a species that’s not known for its decay resistance, however, don’t worry. Wood preservatives can effectively protect your home from fungi and insects as well.

Cost


Finally we come to the ultimate practical consideration. The cost of a given wood species will depend on a number of factors including your location and the speed at which the species grows. Southern yellow pine, for example, tends to be relatively inexpensive because it has a fast growth cycle and is grown in large commercial crops in the Southeast. Wood prices fluctuate just like any other commodity; keep an eye on the market to get the best possible deal on your preferred species.

Monday, February 22, 2016

CobraRod vs Bor8 Rods: What's the Difference?



CobraRod vs Bor8 Rods

What’s the difference between CobraRod and Bor8 Rods?
Bor8 Rods

Borate (disodium octoborate tetrahydrate) is a common solution to preventing or stopping  fungal rot in wood, as well as insect infestation. Borates come in several forms: powder, which is added to water for application; liquid, which is carried in glycol; and concentrated rods, two brands of which are CobraRod and Bor8 Rods.

CobraRod and Bor8 Rods (formerly known as Impel Rods) are similar products in form and function. They are both dowels composed of concentrated, compacted borate preservative. They are applied to logs and timbers by drilling a hole to size, inserting the rod, and plugging the hole with caulk, wooden dowels, or wooden or plastic plugs. They both sit dormant in the wood, unless the moisture content of the wood reaches a point where rot becomes a risk. At that time, the rods slowly dissolve into the wood and prevent rot from happening. So, in terms of what they are and how they work, CobraRod vs Bor8 Rods are two similar products (e.g. Pepsi vs Coke, Chevy vs Ford).
How are they different? There are three primary differences between the two brands: preservative, packaging, and point of activation.

Bor8 Rods
Preservative: Both CobraRod and Bor8Rods have an active borate ingredient registered with the EPA as a preservative. CobraRod has an additional copper preservative, which takes care of some fungi unaffected by borate. The copper also gives CobraRod a dark green color, whereas Bor8 Rods remain looking borate-white.

Packaging: Though it is just a matter of marketing and not performance, there are some differences in the sizes and quantity packaging available between the rods. A minor detail, but if a certain size or smaller quantity is needed then one choice may be better than another. For smaller wood applications like window and door frames, Bor8 Rods offer 1/4"x1/2" rods for minimal treatment areas.

Point of Activation: Bor8 Rods begin to dissolve and diffuse into the wood around 25% moisture content. CobraRod activates at around 20% moisture content.

Either rod can be used preventatively or remedially, but it is good insurance to apply them preventatively to lower or exposed logs that may see moisture for constant duration. Logs sitting at deck level, log ends jutting past protection from eaves, and sill prone to collecting rain or snow are all good places to consider inserting preventative borate protection through these rods.
Give us a call at 1-800-359-6614 or visit our website if you have any other questions about using rods for rot prevention.

Tuesday, February 16, 2016

Finally, Someone Builds a Log Car to Drive to Your Log Home

People have been building homes out of logs since the days of the Roman Empire. Building cars out of logs, however, has been uncharted territory until very recently. Leave it to Bryan Reid Sr., log home builder and star of the HGTV Canada show Timber Kings, to build the world’s fastest (and first, as far as we know) log dragster.

Reid had imagined building a log car for a while, but it wasn’t until he enlisted the help of a few mechanically-inclined friends that he was able to make his dream a reality. After drafting up some plans, Reid scoured his warehouse to find the perfect specimen for his vehicle. He found it in a 240 year old cedar log with some distinct features that reminded him of the fins on a racecar. Using chainsaws and chisels, Reid and his small team shaped the log into the body of their vehicle. They called it the Cedar Rocket.

The rocket rides on the suspension of a Mazda RX-7 and it’s powered by an electric motor and 500 pounds of lithium-ion batteries. Behind the cockpit, two cherry red turbines make the vehicle look like it’s ready to take flight. In fact, just like the spoiler on your old Dodge Neon, they’re just there for show.

Last month, the Cherry Rocket earned itself a spot in the Guinness Book of World Records when it topped out at 55 mph on a drag strip in Arizona. That might not seem like much, but in light of the fact that the vehicle is a 2,200 pound piece of wood being propelled down a track by a glorified golf cart motor, that’s not half bad.

Reid plans to sell the Cedar Rocket for $1 million and donate the proceeds to charity. So, if you’re in the market for a log car that goes like crazy in a straight line and you happen to have a million dollars burning a hole in your pocket, now’s your chance!      

Wednesday, February 3, 2016

21 Log Cabin Builders Share Their #1 Tip For Building Log Homes

 We were happy to contribute to this post on tips for building log homes:

21 Log Cabin Builders Share Their #1 Tip For Building Log Homes

We are a product supplier and don't build log homes, but we do talk to many contractors who build them, applicators who maintain them, and homeowners who have one!

Give us a call for more pre-building considerations. Good design can make your life a lot easier down the road. 1-800-359-6614 or info@loghelp.com

Mold and Mildew

Technical Tip from Perma-Chink Systems, Inc Mold and mildew are terms that are used interchangeably since they refer to the same living orga...