Showing posts with label caulk guns. Show all posts
Showing posts with label caulk guns. Show all posts

Thursday, August 22, 2024

Log Home Caulking, Chinking, & Sealing FAQs

 Can I stain before caulking or chinking?

When applying water-based caulk and chinking like Conceal, Energy Seal, Log Builder caulking, Log Jam chinking, or Perma-Chink, and using a water based stain, it may be applied before of after staining. If using oil-based finishes like NatureColor Base or Recoater, Woodguard, or WR-5:
1. Apply caulk or chinking over one coat, and then apply a second coat of finish the following year.
2. Wait at least 21 days after staining before caulking or chinking to allow for cure time. (Paraffinic oils like in X-100 can cause adhesion failures.)

Do I need backer rod?

Yes, if chink joints are greater than 1/4". See Backer Rod and Chinking.

What does the temperature need to be to apply caulk or chinking?

See "Surface Preparation".

What can I use to smooth out my caulking or chinking?

People use various kinds of "tooling" devices. The most popular would probably be a spatula of some sort at the desired width. Some people use a cake spatula if an industrial one is not available. Butter knives, rubber spatulas, and foam brushes have also been used.

How do I prevent blisters from forming in log home caulk and chinking?

Click here for details.

I have flat on flat logs, what do I put between them?

There are a couple of alternatives to put in between logs for a flat on flat system:

1. The first is to lay a bead of adhesive caulking on each side of the log; see Conceal or Woodsman Caulking.
2. The other alternative is a product called LogSeal. Some of the features of LogSeal are sealing against water, cold, heat, light and noise. LogSeal has adhesive on one side with an easy-release protective liner, providing fast and easy placement during construction. LogSeal provides easy application for flat on flat and saddle notch systems. When using for flat on flat construction, lay one line of LogSeal on the outer edge and one line on the inner edge.

Do I need to caulk after using LogSeal?

Yes. It is always important to seal the exterior side with log home caulk or chinking to keep moisture (in the form of rain or splash-back) out from the log joints. The log caulking also helps to keep insects from working their way in.

Should I buy a 5-gallon pail or tubes?

Economically, it is better to buy a 5-gallon pail; however you don't start saving money until you purchase two 5-gallon pails because of the cost of tools for pail application. A 5-gallon pail is equivalent to twenty-two 29 oz. tubes. It will also depend on what the you feel comfortable with, caulking tubes or a bulk loading gun.

If I buy a 5-gallon pail, how do I get it into my caulk gun?

By using a Follow Plate.

How do I clean and take care of my Albion bulk loading gun?

See "Care of Albion Bulk Loading Guns".

How to Prevent Blisters in Caulk and Chinking

Occasionally, blistering of a chinked or caulked surface occurs. A chinked area is more susceptible to blistering due to the larger joint size. After several years of investigation, Sashco Sealants has uncovered most or all of the causes* of this problem and can recommend ways to prevent it.* At first it was thought that the chinking itself was to blame. But the facts do not support this. For example:

  •  The same batch of product has blistered on one log and not on another.
  •  It is common to find blisters on one side of a house and not the other.
  •  Blisters occur above a certain point on a wall and not below it.
  •  Some blisters appear to be random on a chinking line and others are in a straight row.
  •  Blisters often reappear in the same place when repaired with the same batch of chinking or even with a different batch.

The Causes are Site related and not product or batch related.

Causes of Blisters: The basic cause of any blister is a build-up of gas between the log, the backing surface, and the chinking or caulking. It occurs during The early curing stages when The chinking is soft but has a skin formed on the surface. Heat usually in the form of direct sunlight causes the gas to expand. As the gas expands, it pushes the chinking out, causing a "bubble" or blister. This gas comes from water, wood sap, or even backing material.

What Circumstances Create the Gas? Trapped Water Vapor. As chinking and caulking dries, it gives off water vapor. Any physical condition which traps the resulting water vapor could cause a blister, especially if the logs and chinking are heated by direct sunlight here are some things that could trap this vapor.

  • Cracks or indentations in foam or polyethylene backer rod which doesn't go all the way through. Even tiny spaces can trap enough vapor to create a blister big enough to see.
  • Air bubble trapped during the application process against non-porous backer material.
  • Dead-end crack in wood where moisture vapor can accumulate and expand when heated. (This, most likely, is the most wide-spread cause.)

Note Manus-Bond Caulking is not affected by water vapor in the same as other caulking or chinking because it is a polyurethane. Moisture makes it set up faster and will not generally cause blistering.

.

blisters forming

blisters on day 1 and day 2

Backing Material Backer rod out-gassing. Closed cell backer rod has a puncture and is squeezed by expanding logs. The gas used to make the rod forces a blister in the chinking and caulking.

On Day 1 the backer rod and sealant are applied in the cool part of the day. On Day 2 the sun comes out and heats the logs. This causes the backer rod to be squeezed, and forces a small amount of gas in the backer rod to leave the rod at a rupture or weak spot and make a blister in the sealant. The phenomenon has been known to occur in the caulk and sealant industry for many years and occurs randomly and unpredictably.

Backer Rod Blister

Blister from Pitch PocketPitch Pockets Logs often have what is termed "pitch pockets." These are areas of concentrated pitch, or sap, sometimes containing several gallons! (Pitch pockets of 50 or more gallons are known!) This sap (or its vapor) will follow cracks in logs, coming out of the log almost anywhere. It especially exits at the knots Where the sap flow was directed during the life of the tree. Sap has a volatile component and, when heated, forms a gas that causes blisters. Some blisters appear to be in the dead center of the chinking/ caulking. Upon close investigation, however, most or all of the bubbles are connected to a crack in the log surface. The blisters are often the result of sap vapor, which can come through the tiniest of holes in the wood. Pitch pockets are often the cause of blisters, which line up in a straight row. They are simply aligned with the crack in the log along which the sap is traveling. In the heat of direct sunlight some of the liquid sap in the pitch pocket turns into a gas that is under pressure and can form a blister as it tries to escape the log.

Prevention of Blisters Some of these causes cannot be controlled. Two factors can be partially controlled - heat and backer rod selection/preparation. Since heat normally is responsible for turning undetected gas into unsightly blisters, it makes sense to control this element as much as possible. Once the chinking and caulking has become firm, it can then resist the low pressure from the water or sap vapor and the blisters can then be prevented.

Control the Heat to Prevent Blisters

Control the Heat:

  • Chink or caulk on the shady, cool side.
  • Protect walls from direct sunlight for a few days by covering with a light colored tarp, cloth or plastic. Leave plenty of room for ventilation. It is important to cover the logs as well as the chinking and caulking so the entire surface will stay cool.
  • Stain logs first. This can help to close some pitch pocket holes before chinking and caulking.
  • Although rare, it is possible for excessive heat to build up inside a log home during the early curing stage and cause blisters. If this could occur, make sure windows and doors are left open to allow cool air to ventilate the interior.

Control the Backing Material:

  • Use blunt tools to install closed cell backing materials, being careful to avoid puncturing or denting.
  • Open cell backer rod** may be used in place of closed cell backer rod. These backer rods will not generate gas and they can help dissipate any gas originating from another source. **The weakness of this type of backer rod is that it is more susceptible to absorbing moisture if the chinking or caulking is ruptured and driving rain is forced through to the backer rod.
  • When chinking and caulking over flat insulation (styrofoam, bead board or foil-faced foam board), surface cracks, holes, or dents should be covered with a high quality sticky mylar tape, 2" wide preferably. (The tape will tend to prevent as much as 80% of the blisters that would otherwise form.) Extruded styrene foam (such as Dow Chemical's blue "Styrofoam") has a greater tendency to cause blisters than white bead board or foil-faced urethane foam.
  • Fixing a BlisterA fresh blister can sometimes be eliminated by puncturing the surface skin (to let the moisture vapor escape) and pushing the chinking and caulking back into place. This step can cause marring of the chinking finish, but can be smoothed out 2-3 days later (after the chinking has firmed up) with a small amount of Log Jam applied and smoothed. Often the blister will not reappear. To be effective, this action must be taken within the first day after application, while the underlying chinking and caulking is still wet This method can be the most effective and efficient since the blisters are caught very early (before they become very large) and repaired quickly.
  • More thoroughly cured blisters must be cut off flush and the cavity filled approximately one-fourth to one-half full and allowed to dry. If the cause of the original blister is still present, then it will push the fresh chinking and caulking out into a shallow blister below the surface of the surrounding chinking/ caulking. This may be allowed to dry and a second application, blending with the surrounding chinking, will complete the repair. (See the drawings.)
  • If you can cover a crack or hole with mylar tape, only one repair step is needed. Chinking and caulking can be installed flush with the surrounding material.

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Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

 

Thursday, August 8, 2024

Perma-Chink Energy Seal Textured Caulking

 Caulking a log home with Energy Seal by Perma-ChinkPerma-Chink Energy Seal Textured Caulking is a Log Home Sealant designed for Milled and Scribed Log Homes. Energy Seal, was created specifically to seal milled or scribed log homes. One application makes any log wall completely weather-tight. Energy Seal has excellent adhesion and stretch. Its long-lasting, UV-stable and chemical-resistant formula has become a popular log home sealant. Unlike many commonly used sealants, which look shiny and artificial, Energy Seal is textured to match the visual characteristics of wood. It tools easily to a smooth, professional finish, virtually disappearing into the walls after it's applied. It softens the lines on log walls and accepts the color of wood finishes. In fact, Energy Seal so closely matches your walls, most people can't tell the seams are sealed. Made in the USA.

 Directions for Use 

STEP #1: INSPECTION

Check for deterioration and decay. Remove and replace or repair deteriorated wood. Unsound wood should be repaired prior to applying ENERGYSEAL. Contact any Perma- Chink Systems office for information about wood repairs.

STEP #2: SURFACE PREPARATION 

All surfaces should be clean and free of contaminates including dirt, dust, mold, mildew, oil and wax. Use appropriate materials to clean and prepare surfaces. Do not apply ENERGYSEAL over old caulk. If a wood preservative has been previously applied, make sure it is completely dry before applying ENERGYSEAL. If the surface is tacky or there are visible deposits on the wood, wipe the surface with a wet rag and allow to dry. If an oil-based stain has been applied, allow it to dry at least two weeks before applying ENERGYSEAL. Request a copy of “Log Home Sealant Application Guide” from any Perma-Chink Systems office for information about surface preparation and sealant application. 

STEP #3: BACKING MATERIALS

Depending on the log structure, Grip Strip (trapezoid) or Backer Rod (round) should be placed into the gap before the ENERGYSEAL is applied. This provides a more effective two-way (top and bottom) adhesion. When sealing small seams between logs, the Backer Rod may be held in place by running a small bead of ENERGYSEAL along the seam and sticking the Backer Rod to it. After about 30 minutes ENERGYSEAL may then be applied over the Backer Rod without displacing it. 

STEP #4: APPLICATION 

ENERGYSEAL is compatible with most stains. For maximum adhesion and least visibility use ENERGYSEAL on bare wood prior to staining. If ENERGYSEAL is to be used over newly applied stains or topcoats, apply the product in an obscure area, wait 24 hours and test for adhesion. Do not apply ENERGYSEAL in direct sunlight or when the temperature is less than 40° F. ENERGYSEAL may be applied with a bulk loading caulk gun or applicator bag. Hold the applicator tip firmly against the back surface and apply. Apply enough sealant to maintain a wet thickness of 3/8” across the entire joint after tooling. Only apply as much sealant as you can tool in about 15 minutes. Once the joint is filled, spray with a light mist of water and tool smooth with a trowel or spatula. If the width of the trowel is close to the width of the joint, the smoothing process will be easier. Make sure there is good contact between the ENERGYSEAL and the exposed edges of the top and bottom logs. If you are a first time applicator, start work on a less visible area until you become familiar with the process. 

STEP #5: DRYING AND CURING TIME STEP 

Protect freshly applied ENERGYSEAL from direct rainfall for a minimum of 24 hours. When draping a wall with plastic film, allow some airspace between the wall and the plastic to facilitate drying. Drying time and curing time are two entirely different terms. In warm or hot weather, ENERGYSEAL will begin to skin over in as little as ten minutes while a complete cure may take three to four weeks. Cooler weather will slow both the drying time and curing process. 

STEP #6: CLEANUP 

Clean area and equipment immediately with warm, soapy water before the ENERGYSEAL dries. For removing Perma-Chink that has dried, soften with alcohol and then clean with warm water. Please do not pollute our environment. Dispose of containers and unused material in accordance with local, state, and federal regulations.

STEP #7: MAINTENANCE

Periodic cleaning with an appropriate cleaner such as Log Wash™ will clean off dust and dirt and accentuate the beauty of your home. We recommend that log walls be washed down at least twice a year. Small rips and tears may be repaired using a bead of ENERGYSEAL and a damp short bristled brush to blend it in with the surrounding area. 

STEP #8: STORAGE

Store ENERGYSEAL out of direct sunlight and protect from freezing. Although ENERGYSEAL is freeze-thaw stable, if the product is accidentally frozen, allow to thaw, mix well and check for suitability of use before applying. 

Full data sheet can be found here.


Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

Friday, July 26, 2024

Sashco Log Builder Caulking

Log Builder Caulking being applied on a Swedish Cope style log home Log Builder Caulking by Sashco is a log home caulking sealant with a limited lifetime warranty. Sashco Log Builder Caulking is designed to meet the demanding sealant needs log homes and is compatible with most construction materials. Sashco Log Builder Caulking is water resistant in 1-4 hours. Sashco Log Builder caulking has superior water resistance. Plus excellent resistance to UV rays. Sashco Log Builder Caulking develops powerful adhesion, remains a rubbery sealant for many years. Not only does Log Builder caulking have powerful adhesion to sound wood - it sticks to a lot more. Granted, you want your sealant to have superior adhesion to all species of wood, but Sashco Log Builder caulking adheres to a variety of surfaces. After all, your log home doesn't just consist of wood. What about windows, doors, and baseboards made of a different material? Sashco Log Builder caulking sticks to most building materials including glass, plastics, and metals. So you can seal around those windows, doors and baseboards effectively. And you can fill checks and cracks since Log Builder caulking adheres to most log home stains and finishes too. Sashco Log Builder caulking has water-based chemistry that is environmentally friendly. All Sashco caulking including Log Builder Caulking is recommended for use with Backer Rod when used with logs. Made in the USA. 

 

Fundamental Caulking Application Guidelines

• Proper substrate preparation and application are imperative for product longevity. Read this entire info sheet (LBR 002) before applying any product. 

• Make certain there is compatibility between your stain and Log Builder. We recommend Sashco’s Capture®/Cascade® or Transformation Stains® for exterior applications and Symphony® interior clear coat for beautiful long-term protection. Best results are obtained when Log Builder is applied to clean, stained wood. Call Sashco at 800-767-5656 for guidance if in doubt. 

• Check the weather forecast. Finishing products are best-applied in moderate weather conditions, i.e., out of direct sunlight, and in dry, warm conditions.. 

• Check the log surface temperature. The surface temperature should be between 40˚F (4˚C) – 90˚F (32˚C). 

• It is always best to use a bond breaker (usually backer rod) before caulking. Sashco strongly recommends the use of backer rod, especially if the home is new and/or the logs are subject to significant movement. If a bond breaker is not used, expect more caulking repairs. 

• Tool Log Builder to help ensure good contact with the log surfaces, especially to the upper log; this will greatly aid adhesion. 

• Ideal sealant depth is 1/2 of the joint width, but no less than 1/4” and no more than 1/2”.

• Assemble tools and equipment: - Backer rod - Caulking guns - Trowels, spatulas, or foam brushes for tooling - Clean water and rags - Plastic sheets to cover the caulking if wet weather moves in - Staple gun & staples

Surface Preparation

Best results are obtained when Log Builder is applied to wood that has been previously coated with a compatible and thoroughly cured stain. In fact, Log Builder has a Limited Lifetime Warranty when applied over any of Sashco’s stains: Capture Log Stain or Transformation Stain. 

If not using a Sashco stain, be sure to confirm its compatibility with Log Builder. If the stain is older but still intact, clean the log surfaces thoroughly to remove dirt, pollen, bird droppings, and other surface contaminants.

The USDA Forest Products Laboratory and other researchers around the world have recently reported that surface wood exposed to sunlight for as little as 1-2 weeks can become significantly damaged and unsound which may lead to premature adhesive failure of coatings. Such surface wood damage has the potential to also hurt Log Builder’s (or any caulk’s) adhesion. Once bare wood has been properly cleaned and prepped to remove unsound wood, stain should be applied as soon as possible. Follow with Log Building caulking.

A few sealers, especially those high in wax content or non-drying oils, may interfere with adhesion. Some of these coatings can hurt any caulk’s adhesion—whether applied before or after the caulk—so we advise against their use. Check with Sashco if you have questions about your particular product.

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

Tuesday, July 2, 2024

How to Use a Follow Plate

How to Use a Follow Plate

Remove front cap of caulk gun and wet the end of gun with water or release agent (50% water and 50% denatured alcohol). Spray or pull water into the gun chamber to lubricate the interior.


 

  1. Seat the follow plate firmly on the surface of caulk or chinking.
  2. Attach the caulk gun to the follow plate and lock the push rod.
  3. Pull up slowly to draw the caulk or chinking up inside the barrel until filled.

 Albion & Cox Follow Plates are available.

 

Albion Follow Plate


With your gun screwed on, the Follow Plate allows for easy pressure-feed filling and refilling of caulk or chinking from 5-gallon pails. For straight or tapered  pails. (Conceal, Log Builder, and Log Jam are tapered as of March 1st, 2015). Works with Albion and Newborn bulk loading guns. Made of sheet metal.

 

 

 

Albion Slip On Follow Plate


Quick Push-On, Pull-Off Seal Feature. No Threading Required!

• For 3 & 5 Gallon Pails (Minimum ID 9-7/8” - Maximum ID 11-3/8”).
• Fits all 2” diameter B-Line Bulk and Sausage Guns (models B12Bxx, B26Bxx, B12Sxx, B18Sxx, etc.) and Pro Professional Line (DL-45, DL-59, etc) Bulk Guns. (Sold Separately.)
• Includes a pull rod for easy removal of Follow Plate from pail.
• Steel plates sandwich a nitrile gasket that scrapes the inside of 3 or 5-gallon pail clean.
• Designed to minimize clean up, material waste, and exposure to air.
• Keeps gun barrel clean and prevents air from entering gun barrel during loading.

Cox Follow Plate



The Cox Follow Plate
works with Albion, Cox, and Newborn bulk loading caulk guns. It is designed to work with both straight and tapered 5 gallon pails. The rubber gasket edge seal makes for exceptional ease of use. Pull rod included. See How to Use a Follow Plate.  

 

 

 

 


 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744

www.loghelp.com 

 

Tuesday, June 18, 2024

Albion Bulk Loading Caulk Gun Care

 Loading The Gun
If you are not using a follow plate, place the end of the gun down into the material about 2-3" and pull up on push rod. Using your pointer finger, scrape material off gun until it is clean, then wipe your finger. This helps reduce mess. It is advisable to have a small 5-quart pail with water and a cloth for clean-up after each filling.

Clean-Up At End Of Day
Put remaining caulk or chink back into pail and seal it. Place gun into a pail of water with cap removed and pull up on the push rod. Keep doing this until gun is clean of material. Unscrew the back trigger mechanism and spray a light lubricant like WD-40 into the back and into the gun chamber. Leave gun open until it is dry. This will help keep the interior from rusting. Wipe exterior of the gun with a light oil.

Other Maintenance
If gun is not maintained and a buildup of material develops on or in the gun, remove it by first soaking with brush and roller cleaner. After softening of material occurs, the interior can be cleaned with a 2" or 3" wire wheel attached to a 1/4 inch drill extension.

Other Trouble Shooting: Gun Will Not Fill
The leathers are probably either worn or dried out. With leathers in the gun, place the end of the gun in warm water and keep pulling up on push rod until water is pulled into the gun chamber. If you are working in the fall, the material may be cold and leak fluid. Either keep the material in a heated space or place the pail of material in a tub of heated water.

Leathers Are Buckled
The leathers will lose shape if stored or soaked in water too long. A well-maintained gun will give you a much better chinking or caulking experience, so do clean it daily; if you are unable to clean daily, place the gun in a plastic bag and seal it up until you can take the time to clean it. (if need be, the packing cups can be replaced)

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744

www.loghelp.com 

 


 

Friday, March 11, 2016

Which Packing Cup is best?



When using an Albion caulk gun for bulk caulking or chinking application, leather is a one-type-fits-all material for packing cups and is included with the gun. The packing cups are the plunger-type component that pulls the sealant into the barrel of the gun and pushes it back out. In some situations one may choose to replace the leather packing cups with a different type of material. Here is a general guide for when to use which cup:

#21-1 Leather:  Low friction, tough and durable, excellent chemical resistance.  Soak in motor oil to maintain.  May swell then break down when used with water based materials.  Oil more frequently or choose another packing cup for acrylics. 

#21-7 Impregnated Leather:  Similar to soft leather cups but stiffened with wax to reduce water absorption and blow-by.

#21-16 Nitrile Rubber:  Good seal, elastic, moderate friction.  Excellent for water-based materials.  Preferred by chinkers.  Not recommended for use with solvent-based materials.       

#21-26 Nylon:  (Not shown in image) Springy, moderate friction.  Better chemical resistance than Hytrel.

#21-24 Teflon:   Very low friction, excellent chemical resistance.  Be careful not to nick or bend out of shape.  Expensive.  Excellent for bulk or sausage packes.

#21-24 Hytrel:  (Stiff "H") Higher friction, good chemical resistance.  Sharp edge makes it excellent for sausages.

Mold and Mildew

Technical Tip from Perma-Chink Systems, Inc Mold and mildew are terms that are used interchangeably since they refer to the same living orga...