Log Home Chinking vs Caulking

What is the difference being caulking and chinking? We hear this question all the time. They are somewhat interchangeable in application- to some degree- but there are differences. Modern caulking and chinking are both flexible sealants that are used to seal log homes. Historically, chinking and daubbing were a myriad of material put between the courses of logs to fill the gaps and keep out the weather. It may have been any combination of mud, manure, straw, horsehair, moss, or whatever the local environment provided. Gradually that was replaced with a mortar mixture, often applied over wire mesh or other hardware to keep it in place as the mortar dried and cracked. Now we have modern, synthetic log home chinking and caulking. When properly applied, these elastic sealants will stretch and move with the wood to maintain a bond and keep water, weather, and pests out of the home and keep the heat inside during winter months. Following its history, modern chinking is a textured sealant that simulates mortar but stretches like caulking and is most often put over a backer rod between the logs. Caulking can also be used to seal the lateral joints of logs when a subtle, non-chinked style is needed, and it’s also used with backer rod to keep water out of log checks and to seal all other gaps around doors, windows, and other spaces.

At Schroeder Log Home Supply Inc., we believe in the importance of using the right product for the job, and that means using quality sealants that are designed to bond and be elastic for the best performance with log and wood. Brands we carry are Big StretchCaulking, CheckMate2, Conceal Textured Caulking, Energy SealCaulking, Log Builder Caulking, Manus-Bond Caulking, WoodsmanCaulking, Log Jam Chinking, Perma-Chink, and Sansin Timber-TecChinking. Contact us to help decide which may be best for your situation, or to get a color card to determine the best match to your wood finish.

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

Log Home Caulking, Chinking, & Sealing FAQs

 Can I stain before caulking or chinking?

When applying water-based caulk and chinking like Conceal, Energy Seal, Log Builder caulking, Log Jam chinking, or Perma-Chink, and using a water based stain, it may be applied before of after staining. If using oil-based finishes like NatureColor Base or Recoater, Woodguard, or WR-5:
1. Apply caulk or chinking over one coat, and then apply a second coat of finish the following year.
2. Wait at least 21 days after staining before caulking or chinking to allow for cure time. (Paraffinic oils like in X-100 can cause adhesion failures.)

Do I need backer rod?

Yes, if chink joints are greater than 1/4". See Backer Rod and Chinking.

What does the temperature need to be to apply caulk or chinking?

See "Surface Preparation".

What can I use to smooth out my caulking or chinking?

People use various kinds of "tooling" devices. The most popular would probably be a spatula of some sort at the desired width. Some people use a cake spatula if an industrial one is not available. Butter knives, rubber spatulas, and foam brushes have also been used.

How do I prevent blisters from forming in log home caulk and chinking?

Click here for details.

I have flat on flat logs, what do I put between them?

There are a couple of alternatives to put in between logs for a flat on flat system:

1. The first is to lay a bead of adhesive caulking on each side of the log; see Conceal or Woodsman Caulking.
2. The other alternative is a product called LogSeal. Some of the features of LogSeal are sealing against water, cold, heat, light and noise. LogSeal has adhesive on one side with an easy-release protective liner, providing fast and easy placement during construction. LogSeal provides easy application for flat on flat and saddle notch systems. When using for flat on flat construction, lay one line of LogSeal on the outer edge and one line on the inner edge.

Do I need to caulk after using LogSeal?

Yes. It is always important to seal the exterior side with log home caulk or chinking to keep moisture (in the form of rain or splash-back) out from the log joints. The log caulking also helps to keep insects from working their way in.

Should I buy a 5-gallon pail or tubes?

Economically, it is better to buy a 5-gallon pail; however you don't start saving money until you purchase two 5-gallon pails because of the cost of tools for pail application. A 5-gallon pail is equivalent to twenty-two 29 oz. tubes. It will also depend on what the you feel comfortable with, caulking tubes or a bulk loading gun.

If I buy a 5-gallon pail, how do I get it into my caulk gun?

By using a Follow Plate.

How do I clean and take care of my Albion bulk loading gun?

See "Care of Albion Bulk Loading Guns".

How to Prevent Blisters in Caulk and Chinking

Occasionally, blistering of a chinked or caulked surface occurs. A chinked area is more susceptible to blistering due to the larger joint size. After several years of investigation, Sashco Sealants has uncovered most or all of the causes* of this problem and can recommend ways to prevent it.* At first it was thought that the chinking itself was to blame. But the facts do not support this. For example:

•  The same batch of product has blistered on one log and not on another.
•  It is common to find blisters on one side of a house and not the other.
•  Blisters occur above a certain point on a wall and not below it.
•  Some blisters appear to be random on a chinking line and others are in a straight row.
•  Blisters often reappear in the same place when repaired with the same batch of chinking or even with a different batch.

The Causes are Site related and not product or batch related.

Causes of Blisters: The basic cause of any blister is a build-up of gas between the log, the backing surface, and the chinking or caulking. It occurs during The early curing stages when The chinking is soft but has a skin formed on the surface. Heat usually in the form of direct sunlight causes the gas to expand. As the gas expands, it pushes the chinking out, causing a "bubble" or blister. This gas comes from water, wood sap, or even backing material.

What Circumstances Create the Gas? Trapped Water Vapor. As chinking and caulking dries, it gives off water vapor. Any physical condition which traps the resulting water vapor could cause a blister, especially if the logs and chinking are heated by direct sunlight here are some things that could trap this vapor.

• Cracks or indentations in foam or polyethylene backer rod which doesn't go all the way through. Even tiny spaces can trap enough vapor to create a blister big enough to see.
• Air bubble trapped during the application process against non-porous backer material.
• Dead-end crack in wood where moisture vapor can accumulate and expand when heated. (This, most likely, is the most wide-spread cause.)

Note Manus-Bond Caulking is not affected by water vapor in the same as other caulking or chinking because it is a polyurethane. Moisture makes it set up faster and will not generally cause blistering.

.

Backing Material Backer rod out-gassing. Closed cell backer rod has a puncture and is squeezed by expanding logs. The gas used to make the rod forces a blister in the chinking and caulking.

On Day 1 the backer rod and sealant are applied in the cool part of the day. On Day 2 the sun comes out and heats the logs. This causes the backer rod to be squeezed, and forces a small amount of gas in the backer rod to leave the rod at a rupture or weak spot and make a blister in the sealant. The phenomenon has been known to occur in the caulk and sealant industry for many years and occurs randomly and unpredictably.

Pitch Pockets Logs often have what is termed "pitch pockets." These are areas of concentrated pitch, or sap, sometimes containing several gallons! (Pitch pockets of 50 or more gallons are known!) This sap (or its vapor) will follow cracks in logs, coming out of the log almost anywhere. It especially exits at the knots Where the sap flow was directed during the life of the tree. Sap has a volatile component and, when heated, forms a gas that causes blisters. Some blisters appear to be in the dead center of the chinking/ caulking. Upon close investigation, however, most or all of the bubbles are connected to a crack in the log surface. The blisters are often the result of sap vapor, which can come through the tiniest of holes in the wood. Pitch pockets are often the cause of blisters, which line up in a straight row. They are simply aligned with the crack in the log along which the sap is traveling. In the heat of direct sunlight some of the liquid sap in the pitch pocket turns into a gas that is under pressure and can form a blister as it tries to escape the log.

Prevention of Blisters Some of these causes cannot be controlled. Two factors can be partially controlled - heat and backer rod selection/preparation. Since heat normally is responsible for turning undetected gas into unsightly blisters, it makes sense to control this element as much as possible. Once the chinking and caulking has become firm, it can then resist the low pressure from the water or sap vapor and the blisters can then be prevented.

Control the Heat:

• Chink or caulk on the shady, cool side.

• Protect walls from direct sunlight for a few days by covering with a light colored tarp, cloth or plastic. Leave plenty of room for ventilation. It is important to cover the logs as well as the chinking and caulking so the entire surface will stay cool.

• Stain logs first. This can help to close some pitch pocket holes before chinking and caulking.

• Although rare, it is possible for excessive heat to build up inside a log home during the early curing stage and cause blisters. If this could occur, make sure windows and doors are left open to allow cool air to ventilate the interior.

Control the Backing Material:

• Use blunt tools to install closed cell backing materials, being careful to avoid puncturing or denting.

• Open cell backer rod** may be used in place of closed cell backer rod. These backer rods will not generate gas and they can help dissipate any gas originating from another source. **The weakness of this type of backer rod is that it is more susceptible to absorbing moisture if the chinking or caulking is ruptured and driving rain is forced through to the backer rod.

• When chinking and caulking over flat insulation (styrofoam, bead board or foil-faced foam board), surface cracks, holes, or dents should be covered with a high quality sticky mylar tape, 2" wide preferably. (The tape will tend to prevent as much as 80% of the blisters that would otherwise form.) Extruded styrene foam (such as Dow Chemical's blue "Styrofoam") has a greater tendency to cause blisters than white bead board or foil-faced urethane foam.

• A fresh blister can sometimes be eliminated by puncturing the surface skin (to let the moisture vapor escape) and pushing the chinking and caulking back into place. This step can cause marring of the chinking finish, but can be smoothed out 2-3 days later (after the chinking has firmed up) with a small amount of Log Jam applied and smoothed. Often the blister will not reappear. To be effective, this action must be taken within the first day after application, while the underlying chinking and caulking is still wet This method can be the most effective and efficient since the blisters are caught very early (before they become very large) and repaired quickly.

• More thoroughly cured blisters must be cut off flush and the cavity filled approximately one-fourth to one-half full and allowed to dry. If the cause of the original blister is still present, then it will push the fresh chinking and caulking out into a shallow blister below the surface of the surrounding chinking/ caulking. This may be allowed to dry and a second application, blending with the surrounding chinking, will complete the repair. (See the drawings.)

• If you can cover a crack or hole with mylar tape, only one repair step is needed. Chinking and caulking can be installed flush with the surrounding material.

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Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

 

Perma-Chink Energy Seal Textured Caulking

 Perma-Chink Energy Seal Textured Caulking is a Log Home Sealant designed for Milled and Scribed Log Homes. Energy Seal, was created specifically to seal milled or scribed log homes. One application makes any log wall completely weather-tight. Energy Seal has excellent adhesion and stretch. Its long-lasting, UV-stable and chemical-resistant formula has become a popular log home sealant. Unlike many commonly used sealants, which look shiny and artificial, Energy Seal is textured to match the visual characteristics of wood. It tools easily to a smooth, professional finish, virtually disappearing into the walls after it's applied. It softens the lines on log walls and accepts the color of wood finishes. In fact, Energy Seal so closely matches your walls, most people can't tell the seams are sealed. Made in the USA.

 Directions for Use 

STEP #1: INSPECTION

Check for deterioration and decay. Remove and replace or repair deteriorated wood. Unsound wood should be repaired prior to applying ENERGYSEAL. Contact any Perma- Chink Systems office for information about wood repairs.

STEP #2: SURFACE PREPARATION 

All surfaces should be clean and free of contaminates including dirt, dust, mold, mildew, oil and wax. Use appropriate materials to clean and prepare surfaces. Do not apply ENERGYSEAL over old caulk. If a wood preservative has been previously applied, make sure it is completely dry before applying ENERGYSEAL. If the surface is tacky or there are visible deposits on the wood, wipe the surface with a wet rag and allow to dry. If an oil-based stain has been applied, allow it to dry at least two weeks before applying ENERGYSEAL. Request a copy of “Log Home Sealant Application Guide” from any Perma-Chink Systems office for information about surface preparation and sealant application. 

STEP #3: BACKING MATERIALS

Depending on the log structure, Grip Strip (trapezoid) or Backer Rod (round) should be placed into the gap before the ENERGYSEAL is applied. This provides a more effective two-way (top and bottom) adhesion. When sealing small seams between logs, the Backer Rod may be held in place by running a small bead of ENERGYSEAL along the seam and sticking the Backer Rod to it. After about 30 minutes ENERGYSEAL may then be applied over the Backer Rod without displacing it. 

STEP #4: APPLICATION 

ENERGYSEAL is compatible with most stains. For maximum adhesion and least visibility use ENERGYSEAL on bare wood prior to staining. If ENERGYSEAL is to be used over newly applied stains or topcoats, apply the product in an obscure area, wait 24 hours and test for adhesion. Do not apply ENERGYSEAL in direct sunlight or when the temperature is less than 40° F. ENERGYSEAL may be applied with a bulk loading caulk gun or applicator bag. Hold the applicator tip firmly against the back surface and apply. Apply enough sealant to maintain a wet thickness of 3/8” across the entire joint after tooling. Only apply as much sealant as you can tool in about 15 minutes. Once the joint is filled, spray with a light mist of water and tool smooth with a trowel or spatula. If the width of the trowel is close to the width of the joint, the smoothing process will be easier. Make sure there is good contact between the ENERGYSEAL and the exposed edges of the top and bottom logs. If you are a first time applicator, start work on a less visible area until you become familiar with the process. 

STEP #5: DRYING AND CURING TIME STEP 

Protect freshly applied ENERGYSEAL from direct rainfall for a minimum of 24 hours. When draping a wall with plastic film, allow some airspace between the wall and the plastic to facilitate drying. Drying time and curing time are two entirely different terms. In warm or hot weather, ENERGYSEAL will begin to skin over in as little as ten minutes while a complete cure may take three to four weeks. Cooler weather will slow both the drying time and curing process. 

STEP #6: CLEANUP 

Clean area and equipment immediately with warm, soapy water before the ENERGYSEAL dries. For removing Perma-Chink that has dried, soften with alcohol and then clean with warm water. Please do not pollute our environment. Dispose of containers and unused material in accordance with local, state, and federal regulations.

STEP #7: MAINTENANCE

Periodic cleaning with an appropriate cleaner such as Log Wash™ will clean off dust and dirt and accentuate the beauty of your home. We recommend that log walls be washed down at least twice a year. Small rips and tears may be repaired using a bead of ENERGYSEAL and a damp short bristled brush to blend it in with the surrounding area. 

STEP #8: STORAGE

Store ENERGYSEAL out of direct sunlight and protect from freezing. Although ENERGYSEAL is freeze-thaw stable, if the product is accidentally frozen, allow to thaw, mix well and check for suitability of use before applying. 

Full data sheet can be found here.

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

Sashco Log Builder Caulking

 Log Builder Caulking by Sashco is a log home caulking sealant with a limited lifetime warranty. Sashco Log Builder Caulking is designed to meet the demanding sealant needs log homes and is compatible with most construction materials. Sashco Log Builder Caulking is water resistant in 1-4 hours. Sashco Log Builder caulking has superior water resistance. Plus excellent resistance to UV rays. Sashco Log Builder Caulking develops powerful adhesion, remains a rubbery sealant for many years. Not only does Log Builder caulking have powerful adhesion to sound wood - it sticks to a lot more. Granted, you want your sealant to have superior adhesion to all species of wood, but Sashco Log Builder caulking adheres to a variety of surfaces. After all, your log home doesn't just consist of wood. What about windows, doors, and baseboards made of a different material? Sashco Log Builder caulking sticks to most building materials including glass, plastics, and metals. So you can seal around those windows, doors and baseboards effectively. And you can fill checks and cracks since Log Builder caulking adheres to most log home stains and finishes too. Sashco Log Builder caulking has water-based chemistry that is environmentally friendly. All Sashco caulking including Log Builder Caulking is recommended for use with Backer Rod when used with logs. Made in the USA. 

 

Fundamental Caulking Application Guidelines

• Proper substrate preparation and application are imperative for product longevity. Read this entire info sheet (LBR 002) before applying any product. 

• Make certain there is compatibility between your stain and Log Builder. We recommend Sashco’s Capture®/Cascade® or Transformation Stains® for exterior applications and Symphony® interior clear coat for beautiful long-term protection. Best results are obtained when Log Builder is applied to clean, stained wood. Call Sashco at 800-767-5656 for guidance if in doubt. 

• Check the weather forecast. Finishing products are best-applied in moderate weather conditions, i.e., out of direct sunlight, and in dry, warm conditions.. 

• Check the log surface temperature. The surface temperature should be between 40˚F (4˚C) – 90˚F (32˚C). 

• It is always best to use a bond breaker (usually backer rod) before caulking. Sashco strongly recommends the use of backer rod, especially if the home is new and/or the logs are subject to significant movement. If a bond breaker is not used, expect more caulking repairs. 

• Tool Log Builder to help ensure good contact with the log surfaces, especially to the upper log; this will greatly aid adhesion. 

• Ideal sealant depth is 1/2 of the joint width, but no less than 1/4” and no more than 1/2”.

• Assemble tools and equipment: - Backer rod - Caulking guns - Trowels, spatulas, or foam brushes for tooling - Clean water and rags - Plastic sheets to cover the caulking if wet weather moves in - Staple gun & staples

Surface Preparation

Best results are obtained when Log Builder is applied to wood that has been previously coated with a compatible and thoroughly cured stain. In fact, Log Builder has a Limited Lifetime Warranty when applied over any of Sashco’s stains: Capture Log Stain or Transformation Stain. 

If not using a Sashco stain, be sure to confirm its compatibility with Log Builder. If the stain is older but still intact, clean the log surfaces thoroughly to remove dirt, pollen, bird droppings, and other surface contaminants.

The USDA Forest Products Laboratory and other researchers around the world have recently reported that surface wood exposed to sunlight for as little as 1-2 weeks can become significantly damaged and unsound which may lead to premature adhesive failure of coatings. Such surface wood damage has the potential to also hurt Log Builder’s (or any caulk’s) adhesion. Once bare wood has been properly cleaned and prepped to remove unsound wood, stain should be applied as soon as possible. Follow with Log Building caulking.

A few sealers, especially those high in wax content or non-drying oils, may interfere with adhesion. Some of these coatings can hurt any caulk’s adhesion—whether applied before or after the caulk—so we advise against their use. Check with Sashco if you have questions about your particular product.

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

Sansin Timber-Tec Chinking

 Sansin Timber-Tec Chinking - A revolution in chinking technology. Log homes move and settle like no other buildings. That’s why Timber-Tec Chinking is engineered for zero shrinkage while accommodating up to 400% elongation so that as your house moves it will continue to be tightly sealed against the weather. Timber-Tec Chinking is odorless, cures to exposure in just one hour, and is easy to apply even in cold temperatures. Timber-Tec Chinking is designed for application in very dynamic joints. It is solvent free, non-shrinking, and its unique cure chemistry allows application down to 30° F. Made in Canada.

 

 

 

Application Temp:	30°F +.
Method:	For these sausage packs, use the Cox Bulk Gun with the factory installed blue cup or a Newborn Bulk Gun. You can spray 99% isopropyl alcohol as you apply and spread chinking in the joint. Don't use water as this promotes faster curing.
Surface Preparation	Inspect bonding surfaces for defects or deterioration or insect damage. Clean all dirt, debris, oil or previous chinking with ammonia water or alcohol. Do not clean with petroleum distillates or detergents, which leave a residue that would interfere with adhesion. See Technical Data for details.
Drying Time	Cure begins when it comes in contact with air, resealing the package will not stop the curring process so it is necessary to plan accordingly. Skin over in about 40 minutes at room temperature. Hot and humid conditions can accelerate skin over time to as little as 20 minutes. See Technical Data for details.
Shelf Life:	1 year. Store at room temperature. Freeze-thaw stable (not damaged by freezing).
Cleanup:	Soapy water/Alcohol mixture.

 

 

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744

www.loghelp.com 

Backer Rod and Chinking Log Homes

Backer Rod and Chinking Part 2

Chinking a log home is not a difficult process. Once you get over the awkwardness of learning how to "gun the product" onto the logs and then get the "feel" of tooling the product you will pick up speed and find satisfaction in having a part in finishing your home. This article covers the basics of how to chink a log home, but before starting your project in earnest, request and read a Data Tech that goes into greater detail.

Proper Joint Design Last month’s article briefly touched on the reason why backer rod is needed—to serve as a bond breaker. The following illustrations graphically depict why 2-point adhesion is so important for the performance of any chinking or caulking product. Synthetic chinking is formulated to be flexible, but as the drawings demonstrate it can fully flex to absorb log movement only if a bond breaker is installed down the center of the joint.

      

 

 

Surface Preparation For chinking to establish good adhesion to the logs, they must be clean—free of dirt, pollen, uncured oils, sawdust, and other loose materials. The surface temperature of the logs should be between 40°-90° Fahrenheit. The liquids in the chinking "wet out the surface" of the logs so that the chinking can establish good adhesion. If the log surface is colder than 40° the wood pores tighten up not allowing for proper wetting out of the surface. Conversely, when the wood temperature is higher than 90°, the liquids evaporate off too quickly, adversely affecting adhesion.

Most people like contrast in color between their chinking and their stain; therefore, staining prior to chinking is necessary to achieve this look. It is also easier to tool chinking if it is applied to a stained surface, but you must be certain that the stain and chinking are compatible, and that the stain has had sufficient cure time.

Many stains on the market contain waxes and stearates that can interfere with adhesion of chinking and caulking. Usually, companies that manufacture both chinking and stains make certain that their products are compatible, and attempt to enhance their stains for even better adhesion of their chinking and caulking products. If your chinking and stain are manufactured by 2 different companies, call and ask if testing has been done for compatibility and request a copy of their test results.

Application Chinking is packaged in 5-gallon pails and quart tubes, although for larger jobs, 5-gallon pails are more economical. When using 5-gallon pails there are a number of application methods that can be used. You can use a trowel, grout bag, bulk loading gun, or a commercial pumping system that pumps out the chinking material in a continuous flow, making it easier to apply.

There are a variety of different sized nozzles available in both round and slot styles. For smaller beads, a round style nozzle works well but for wider joints the slot style nozzles are the only way to go. In selecting your nozzle size be aware that the depth of the bead of caulk should be half the size of the width of the joint, but never thinner than a 1/4" or thicker than 1/2"; i.e., for a joint 1" wide the bead depth should be 3/8" to 1/2".

Apply the chinking material down the center of the joint, over the backer rod and overlapping slightly onto the surface of both logs. Only apply enough product down the length of the log that you can reasonably tool before it starts to skin over. As you become accustomed to tooling you will be able to run longer beads.

Tooling There are as many tooling implements out there as there are chinkers! I prefer the polyethylene foam brushes available in any hardware store or lumber yard but I have seen folks tool with rubber spatulas, paint brushes, putty knives, trowels, and even metal spatulas cut down with wire cutters to the desired width. The secret is finding the tool that works best for you. You will also need a pail of clean water, a sponge, and a spray bottle filled with clean water. To speed up the tooling process, have several foam brushes on hand. As soon as one picks up too much chinking and starts to drag instead of gliding over the surface, throw it into the water pail and continue on with a clean brush. A mixture of 1 part denatured alcohol to 2 parts water can be used for misting chinking when the temperature is over 70°. If you are working in the sun and the chinking is skinning over too quickly, straight alcohol can be used. When the temperature is lower than 70° the alcohol is not necessary.

Using a damp polyethylene foam brush, holding the foam portion parallel to the bead, gently press the bead into place. You don't want to drag the foam brush down the bead but instead, section by section press the foam brush against the bead. The next step is the actual tooling. Using the spray bottle, lightly mist the chinking with water to allow the brush to glide over the surface. Do not apply too much water, or the latex in the chinking will run down the logs. If this happens, just wipe off with a damp sponge or rag. The idea is to smooth out the ripples caused by gunning, but most importantly, to feather the bead out onto the top and bottom logs at least 1/4" so that the chinking is tooled tightly to the log surfaces.

Clean-up and Disposal To properly dispose of unused chinking material, it is good practice to understand and follow all of your state and local regulations on clean-up and disposal. Do not dispose of chinking material in drinking water supplies. However, for easy clean-up water may be used for cleaning hands, surfaces and equipment. Toxic solvents are not required for chinking material clean-up.

Warning! As you finish your chinking and stand back to admire your work . . . ugh! Blisters! Blisters are a phenomenon commonly found after applying chinking. They form when moisture from the chinking accumulates in voids beneath the bead and the heat from the sun causes the blister to appear as "bubble" in the chinking. To avoid these blisters, use a white tarp to shield freshly chinked walls from the sun. If this is not possible, keep a close eye on the chinked wall for the first 24-48 hours. If a blister pops up, just puncture a hole in the middle of it and gently push the chinking back into place. Then after 3-5 days you can repair the blister by applying a small portion of chinking material into the hole.

Cure Time After the chinking process is completed, allow it to cure for one week if you will be painting over it with oil or latex paints, total cure-through is 28 days. Just one last suggestion that I picked up from a professional chinker: Hang a small board with several beads of the chinking in a conspicuous area with a sign inviting people to satisfy their need to touch. Hopefully, this will keep them from satisfying their curiosity on the chinking courses of your home!

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744

www.loghelp.com 

 

Backer Rod for Log Home Chinking

 

Backer Rod and Chinking Part 1 & 2

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Part 1

As the warm weather begins, its the time of year when we start thinking about chinking our log homes. The first step of caulking or chinking is applying Backer Rod. The *Log Core will take you through a two part series of Backer Rod and Chinking. We will begin this series with backer rod of all types.

Backer Rod is a synthetic foam that comes in a variety of shapes and sizes from 1/4" up to 5". The reason why Backer Rod needs to be placed in joints is that it acts as a bond breaker, which provides a surface that chinking won't adhere to. Eventually, the chinking will free itself from the backer and will move with the logs as they expand or shrink. Backer Rod also serves by adding an insulation value and reduces the amount of material needed.

Grip Strip backer rod provides an excellent fit with a flat working surface and is a closed cell product that repels water. As a chinking applicator for a restoration company for 7 years in Northern Minnesota, I have found this material is the easiest and quickest to use. No tools are necessary and it follows with the curvature of the logs. This product really grips to the logs and stays in place.

SOF Rod can be described as an open cell, extruded polyethylene foam. SOF Rod is extruded to leave an impermeable shell to prevent moisture from entering the side. Advantages of this backer are that it is very flexible and is easy to install. Smaller sizes are offered to fit those really tight joints. When choosing a size, the diameter should be approximately 25% larger than the joint because of the compressibility. Precautions to take are not to puncture or stretch during application. This may cause out gassing. In smaller joints a blunt tool may be needed to push backer further into the joint to allow the required amount of chinking. This material is easier to work with for smaller size joints.

Closed Cell backer rod is a closed cell polyethylene round foam that also runs in a continuous length. Compared to the SOF Rod this backer is firm, but just as easy to install. Again a blunt tool may be needed to push backer deeper into the joint to allow the required amount of chinking.

Open Cell Backer Rod is easy to work with also. It is soft and compresses to fit most size joints. This product is breathable which allows for a faster cure, but recommended in the interior. This is because it will absorb water. If used on the exterior, only put in the amount of open cell that you think will get done in one day so the exposed backer will not draw in moisture. Note: the use of a blunt tool when installing backer rod to the exterior logs will prevent punctures to the surface of the rod and minimize chink blistering caused by trapped water vaporizing under direct heat from exposure to the sun.

For smaller joints where backer rod can not fit, but yet there may be a gap, a mylar tape or strapping tape may be used. This too will serve as a bond-breaker to allow the material to release itself from the tape and move with logs as they settle and shrink. If applying chinking over old mortar, a bond-breaker tape should be applied as well. Packing tape or duct tape are two examples that will work for this situation.

If the backer seems to keep popping out, a smaller backer or a different style of backer is needed. You should never have to nail Backer Rod to keep in place. The most common mistake about choosing Backer Rod is selecting a backer that is too big for the joint. When this happens, the backer keeps coming out or you are left with a chinked joint that is larger than it needs to be. I recommend to take advantage of the samples we have to try different styles and sizes. Keep in mind that you may require a number of different styles and sizes for your particular project.

*Backer Rod and Chinking Part 1 (courtesy of Denise Carlson, Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.)

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744

www.loghelp.com 

 

How to Use a Follow Plate

How to Use a Follow Plate

Remove front cap of caulk gun and wet the end of gun with water or release agent (50% water and 50% denatured alcohol). Spray or pull water into the gun chamber to lubricate the interior.

 

1. Seat the follow plate firmly on the surface of caulk or chinking.
2. Attach the caulk gun to the follow plate and lock the push rod.
3. Pull up slowly to draw the caulk or chinking up inside the barrel until filled.

 Albion & Cox Follow Plates are available.

 

Albion Follow Plate

With your gun screwed on, the Follow Plate allows for easy pressure-feed filling and refilling of caulk or chinking from 5-gallon pails. For straight or tapered  pails. (Conceal, Log Builder, and Log Jam are tapered as of March 1st, 2015). Works with Albion and Newborn bulk loading guns. Made of sheet metal.

 

 

 

Albion Slip On Follow Plate

Quick Push-On, Pull-Off Seal Feature. No Threading Required!

• For 3 & 5 Gallon Pails (Minimum ID 9-7/8” - Maximum ID 11-3/8”).
• Fits all 2” diameter B-Line Bulk and Sausage Guns (models B12Bxx, B26Bxx, B12Sxx, B18Sxx, etc.) and Pro Professional Line (DL-45, DL-59, etc) Bulk Guns. (Sold Separately.)
• Includes a pull rod for easy removal of Follow Plate from pail.
• Steel plates sandwich a nitrile gasket that scrapes the inside of 3 or 5-gallon pail clean.
• Designed to minimize clean up, material waste, and exposure to air.
• Keeps gun barrel clean and prevents air from entering gun barrel during loading.

Cox Follow Plate

The Cox Follow Plate works with Albion, Cox, and Newborn bulk loading caulk guns. It is designed to work with both straight and tapered 5 gallon pails. The rubber gasket edge seal makes for exceptional ease of use. Pull rod included. See How to Use a Follow Plate.  

 

 

 

 

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744

www.loghelp.com 

 

Perma-Chink Directions for Use

STEP #1: INSPECTION

If applying to an older home, check for signs of rot and decay. Remove and replace or repair deteriorated wood. Contact any Perma-Chink Systems office for information about wood repairs.
 

STEP #2: SURFACE PREPARATION

All surfaces should be clean, dry and free from oil, dirt or other foreign matter. Use appropriate materials to clean and prepare surfaces. Perma-Chink Log Home Sealant is best applied after the home has been stained. We strongly recommend the use of any LIFELINE™ brand exterior stain and topcoat. If an oil-based stain has been applied, allow it to dry at least two weeks before applying Perma-Chink Log Home Sealant.
 

STEP #3: BACKING MATERIALS

Perma-Chink Log Home Sealant should only be applied over approved substrates. When selecting the width of Grip Strip to use on round logs, the joint width should be approximately 1/6 the diameter of the logs (10” diameter logs; 10” ÷ 6 = 1.67”). Obtain a copy of our “Log Home Sealant Application Guide” from any Perma-Chink Systems location for information about suitable backing materials and substrates.
 

STEP #4: APPLICATION

Do not apply in direct sunlight or when the temperature is less than 40° F. Perma-Chink Log Home Sealant may be applied with a bulk loading caulk gun, grout bag or high volume chink pump. Hold the applicator tip firmly against the back surface and apply. If several beads of chinking are required to fill a gap, place them close together to avoid entrapped air. Apply enough sealant to maintain a wet thickness of
at least 5/16” and no more than ½” across the entire joint after tooling. Only apply as much sealant as you can tool in about 15 minutes. Once the joint is filled, spray with a light mist of water and tool smooth with a trowel or spatula. If the width of the trowel is close to the width of the joint, the smoothing process will be easier. Make sure there is good contact between the Perma-Chink and the exposed edges of the top and bottom logs. If you are a first time applicator, start work on a less visible area until you become familiar with the process.
 

STEP #5: DRYING AND CURING TIME

Protect freshly applied Perma-Chink from direct rainfall for a minimum of 24 hours. When draping a wall with plastic film, allow some airspace between the wall and the plastic to facilitate drying. Sheets of cardboard may also be use to cover newly applied Perma-Chink to prevent “chinking inspectors” from leaving finger dents in the uncured chinking. Drying time and curing time are two entirely different terms. In warm or hot weather, Perma-Chink will begin to skin over in as little as ten minutes while a complete cure may take three to four weeks. Cooler weather will slow both the drying time and curing process.
 

STEP #6: CLEANUP

Clean area and equipment immediately with warm, soapy water before the Perma-Chink dries. For removing Perma-Chink that has dried, soften with alcohol and then clean with warm water. Please do not pollute our environment. Dispose of containers and unused material in accordance with local, state, and federal regulations.
 

STEP #7: MAINTENANCE

Periodic cleaning with an appropriate cleaner such as Log Wash™ will clean off dust and dirt and accentuate the beauty of your home. We recommend that log walls be washed down at least twice a year. Small rips and tears may be repaired using a bead of Perma-Chink and a damp short bristled brush to blend it in with the surrounding area. Tears greater than one foot long should be cut out and the chinking replaced.
 

STEP #8: STORAGE

Store Perma-Chink out of direct sunlight and protect from freezing. Although Perma-Chink is freeze-thaw stable, if the product is accidentally frozen, allow to thaw, mix well and check for suitability of use before applying. Request a copy of our “Log Home Sealant Application Guide” from any Perma-Chink Systems office for additional information about applying and maintaining Perma-Chink Log Home Sealant.

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744

www.loghelp.com 

Sashco Log Jam Chinking

You chose rugged, rustic logs and timbers to create your perfect home- stead. Now, use Log Jam® to protect it for years to come. Log Jam® is the industry standard in synthetic chinking. Unlike old-time mortar or other synthetic chinking, it holds tough year after year. Its superior elasticity means it moves with your logs with- out cracking to seal your log cabin from vermin, pollen, dust, rain and wind alike. You get the rustic look of old-time mortar without compromising modern-day comfort and energy efficiency. Keep the cozy feel and rustic look of big timbers without compromise. Seal your logs with Log Jam®. 

• Rustic look without the rustic application: The textured formula is easy to apply, even for a novice, for a Daniel Boone-approved mortar look. 

• Keeps the weather where it belongs - outside: Moves with your logs to create a permanently waterproof and weatherproof seal. 

• Helps you avoid repeated repairs: Just say no to crumbly mortar or cracked chinking. Stays soft and elastic over time for a long-lasting seal. 

• Easy to clean up: Easy to smooth and clean-up with water. 

• No special chemicals required 

• OK to leave in your unheated garage overnight: Stable through 5 freeze-thaw cycles.

 

Fundamental Chinking Application Guidelines

Proper substrate preparation and application are imperative for product longevity. Read this instruction sheet before applying any product.

1. Best results are obtained when Log Jam® is applied to clean, dry, stained wood. Make certain there is compatibility between your stain and Log Jam®. Log Jam® has a lifetime warranty when applied with Sashco’s stains: Capture Log Stain® / Cascade® staining system, Transformation Stain® Log & Timber and Symphony®Interior Clear Coat. If using a different stain or finish, contact Sashco for guidance. Call 800-767-5656, or visit and chat live at www.sashco.com.

2. Check the weather forecast. Finishing products are best applied in moderate weather conditions, i.e., out of direct sunlight, in dry, warm conditions.

3. Check the log surface temperature. The surface temperature should be between 40˚-90˚F (4˚-32˚C).

4. Install a bond breaker before Log Jam® is applied. Backer rod, Grip Strip, and clear packing tape all perform this function well. If Log Jam® is applied over white styrene bead-board or Tyvek™ house wrap, it is best to cover the bead-board or wrinkle-free house wrap with clear packing tape (to prevent adhesion to those materials). We do not recommend the use of blue or pink extruded polystyrene board as a bond breaker.

5. Gun the chinking over the backing material. Ideal seal- ant depth is half of the joint width, but no less than 1/4”, nor more than 1/2”.

6. Tool Log Jam® to ensure good contact with the log surfaces, especially to the upper log; this will greatly aid adhesion.

7. All chinking products may occasionally “blister”.

To avoid blistering:

• Do not apply in direct sunlight.

• Protect fresh chinking from direct sunlight for 1-2 days after application with white plastic sheeting tacked over it.

• For detailed information, read Sashco’s Savvy Bulletin, “Preventing Blisters”.

Application Surface Preparation

Best results are obtained when Log Jam® is applied to wood that has been previously coated with a compatible and thoroughly cured stain.

Clean the log surfaces thoroughly to remove dirt, pollen, bird droppings and other surface contaminants.

The USDA Forest Products Laboratory and other researchers around the world have reported that surface wood exposed to sunlight for as little as 1-2 weeks can become significantly damaged and unsound, which may lead to premature adhesive failure of the stains or other coatings applied to it. It can also hurt Log Jam®’s (or any chinking’s) adhesion to the surface. Once bare wood has been properly cleaned and prepped to remove unsound wood, stain should be applied as soon as possible. Follow with Log Jam® chinking.

If a stain is applied over Log Jam®, it will be tinted the stain color, but will be affected differently than the surrounding wood; therefore, test appearance before wide- spread use.

A few coatings, especially those high in wax content or non-drying oils, may interfere with adhesion, whether they are applied before or after Log Jam®. We advise against using Log Jam ® with such products. Contact Sashco if you have questions about your particular product.

Cold Weather Chinking

Log Jam® can be applied in cold weather by following these instructions:

1. Make sure the log surfaces are above 40˚F (4˚C). Use a surface thermometer to double-check.

2. Keep the chinking at room temperature until ready to use.

3. Make sure the logs are free of frost.

4. Tent out the walls with clear plastic sheeting and keep them warm with heaters, then apply chinking.

5. Make sure there is air circulation so moisture doesn’t form on the logs, causing a washout. Some venting up high will help with this problem.

6. Leave the tent intact day and night while chinking, and for 2 to 4 days after chinking is complete.

7. Finally, remove the plastic sheeting. This should be sufficient to let the Log Jam® skin over and slowly cure. Due to cold temperatures, it will take much longer than normal for the Log Jam® to fully cure, but it will be fine if left undisturbed. Warn people to avoid pushing on for several weeks.

More info can be found on the product info sheet. 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

Albion Bulk Loading Caulk Gun Care

 Loading The Gun
If you are not using a follow plate, place the end of the gun down into the material about 2-3" and pull up on push rod. Using your pointer finger, scrape material off gun until it is clean, then wipe your finger. This helps reduce mess. It is advisable to have a small 5-quart pail with water and a cloth for clean-up after each filling.

Clean-Up At End Of Day
Put remaining caulk or chink back into pail and seal it. Place gun into a pail of water with cap removed and pull up on the push rod. Keep doing this until gun is clean of material. Unscrew the back trigger mechanism and spray a light lubricant like WD-40 into the back and into the gun chamber. Leave gun open until it is dry. This will help keep the interior from rusting. Wipe exterior of the gun with a light oil.

Other Maintenance
If gun is not maintained and a buildup of material develops on or in the gun, remove it by first soaking with brush and roller cleaner. After softening of material occurs, the interior can be cleaned with a 2" or 3" wire wheel attached to a 1/4 inch drill extension.

Other Trouble Shooting: Gun Will Not Fill
The leathers are probably either worn or dried out. With leathers in the gun, place the end of the gun in warm water and keep pulling up on push rod until water is pulled into the gun chamber. If you are working in the fall, the material may be cold and leak fluid. Either keep the material in a heated space or place the pail of material in a tub of heated water.

Leathers Are Buckled
The leathers will lose shape if stored or soaked in water too long. A well-maintained gun will give you a much better chinking or caulking experience, so do clean it daily; if you are unable to clean daily, place the gun in a plastic bag and seal it up until you can take the time to clean it. (if need be, the packing cups can be replaced)

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744

www.loghelp.com 

 

 

Cleaning Up Chinking Lines

As time and weather pass, chink lines on your log cabin or log home that were once strikingly bright may become dirty and dingy. Sometimes a simple wash and scrub will clean it up and get the chinking looking new. If that isn't enough, if some log stain got onto your chinking, or you just want to change its color, you can apply a liquified, paintable chinking product. There is a pre-mixed Chink-Paint available to save you time and hassle, or there is a recipe to make it yourself and save money.

Apply Pre-Mixed Chink Paint:




Chink-Paint is an elastomeric, textured coating for renewing or changing the color of chinking. Ideal for giving your log home a face-lift by brightening the appearance of old, dirty chinking, or altering the color of existing chinking. Chink-Paint’s elasticity enables it to expand and contract with Perma-Chink chinking or Energy Seal without cracking or peeling. When restoring an older home, it saves time and money by eliminating the need to mask off the chinking before staining. Simply wait for the stain to dry and then apply a coat of Chink-Paint in the color you desire.



Make Your Own Paint-On Chinking:


As explained by Sashco, "It’s easy to make your own Log Jam® chink paint on site.  And since mixing your own costs 1/3 less than buying pre-mixed chink paint, it’s the smart money-saving choice.

Simply follow the instructions below, then apply over any water-based chinking*.

PREPARATION:

Be sure that all chink lines are clean and dry, and free of waxes, mold, mildew, dust, pollen, and other contaminants.

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS:

Large Volume (Yield: approx. 5 gal. mixed)
1) Remove and set aside 1 gallon of chinking from a 5 gallon pail.
2) Add one gallon of distilled water back into the pail.
3) Using a high viscosity mixing blade, thoroughly mix the water and chinking.
4) Add additional water or chinking (in small increments) to “dial in” your preferred viscosity.

Small Volume (Yield: approx. 1 quart mixed)
1) Gun out entire contents of one 29 oz. cartridge of chinking into any large plastic container (such as a clean 1 gal. ice cream bucket).
2) Add in ½ pint (8 oz.) of distilled water
3) Using a mixing blade or a typical kitchen hand-held mixer, thoroughly mix the water and chinking.
4) Add additional water or chinking (in small increments) to “dial in” your preferred viscosity.
Floetrol®, a common additive used in the paint industry, can be used in place of water, if desired.  Resulting mixture will not be noticeably different. (Floetrol® is a registered trademark of the Akzo Nobel group of companies.)

APPLICATION INSTRUCTIONS: 
1) Using a foam paint brush, paint pad or trowel (whichever you prefer), apply the chink paint and smooth onto the chink line.
2) Clean off any drips or runs immediately so they don’t dry on the wood and stain it.
3) Allow to thoroughly dry.  Cover exterior walls with plastic if rainfall is expected within 24 hours after installation.

COVERAGE RATES: 
Joint Width:                 3/4”   1” 1-1/2” 2”   3”
Lineal Feet per 1 gal.: 1760 1320 880 660 440

*Tested for compatibility with Sashco’s Log Jam chinking.  Always test first if using a different product.

The Difference Between Chinking and Caulking

All log homes need sealant to close the gaps between log courses. Because even machine milled logs won’t lie perfectly flush against one another, these sealants are necessary to prevent water intrusion and provide insulation. These sealants typically fall into one of two categories – chinking and caulking. Today we’ll compare the applications for both of these sealant types.

Chinking

This is the type of sealant that has been traditionally used in log homes for centuries. It forms the characteristic white bands between the courses in older log homes. Whereas chinking was originally a Portland cement-based mortar, today it is an acrylic compound designed for extra elasticity and adhesion. Before chinking can be applied, a backer rod must be placed in the space between the log courses. This ensures a firm seal between the joints. Next, Chinking is applied over the backer rod, filling in the remaining gaps between the logs. The width of the chinking in a given log home will depend on its construction and the aesthetic preferences of the owners.

Caulking

This type of sealant is only used in modern, machine-milled log homes. It’s very similar to the caulk you’ve probably used in your bathroom or kitchen. Whereas chinking is designed to fill broad gaps between courses, caulk is used to seal narrow gaps. Likewise, it doesn’t require backer rods. The caulking in a machine-milled home is more or less invisible from a distance. Caulk is also more elastic than chinking.

Whatever type of sealant you need for your, Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. can help. Browse our inventory online, or give us a call today for more information!  

Which Packing Cup is best?

When using an Albion caulk gun for bulk caulking or chinking application, leather is a one-type-fits-all material for packing cups and is included with the gun. The packing cups are the plunger-type component that pulls the sealant into the barrel of the gun and pushes it back out. In some situations one may choose to replace the leather packing cups with a different type of material. Here is a general guide for when to use which cup:

#21-1 Leather:  Low friction, tough and durable, excellent chemical resistance.  Soak in motor oil to maintain.  May swell then break down when used with water based materials.  Oil more frequently or choose another packing cup for acrylics. 

#21-7 Impregnated Leather:  Similar to soft leather cups but stiffened with wax to reduce water absorption and blow-by.

#21-16 Nitrile Rubber:  Good seal, elastic, moderate friction.  Excellent for water-based materials.  Preferred by chinkers.  Not recommended for use with solvent-based materials.       

#21-26 Nylon:  (Not shown in image) Springy, moderate friction.  Better chemical resistance than Hytrel.

#21-24 Teflon:   Very low friction, excellent chemical resistance.  Be careful not to nick or bend out of shape.  Expensive.  Excellent for bulk or sausage packes.

#21-24 Hytrel:  (Stiff "H") Higher friction, good chemical resistance.  Sharp edge makes it excellent for sausages.