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Cobra Rods
are a safe, Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) approved wood decay
protection and prevention system for log homes. Cobra Rods are a wood
preservative, fungicide, and insecticide that's safe to handle and made
entirely of a unique Boron and Copper Hydroxide complex. Cobra Rods
include the addition of Copper Hydroxide which provides extended
protection from fungus species not affected by borates, effectively
providing more protection then Impel Rods. Photo shows Cobra Rods and Cobra Rod Plugs.
Cobra Rods take the form of a solid cylindrical rod that is
approximately 7/16" in diameter (use a 1/2" drill bit for installation)
and comes in 2" and 4" lengths. Cobra Rods are a deep green color and
has a glass-like look and feel. When used for logs, the Cobra Rods can
be "plugged" with caulking or chinking to aesthetically hide them.
CobraRod Plugs are also available (included with the 2" 10 pack and 3"
12 pack of Cobra Rods). Cobra Rods can be used in logs, landscape
timbers, deck joists, posts, and other places where moisture is present.
The treatment cycle is 8 to 10 years if wood moisture is 20% or higher.
Cobra Rods are placed into holes drilled in wood at specific high risk
locations (such as at the groundline or near joints and exposed
endgrain) and are dependent upon moisture in the wood to work.
Cobra Rod Installation
The highest incidence of wood rot and decay happens at the ground line. The CobraRod targets this area and prevents fungal decay, termites, carpenter ants, various beetles and other wood-boring insects. This revolutionary combination of copper and boron is proven effective, safe and easy to use. North American utilities have trusted the CobraRod to extend the life of their wood poles. Now you too can benefit form this simple solution.
Bor8 Rods (previously known as Impel Rods) are a
highly effective preservative system for the prevention and control of
fungal decay (log rot) and many destructive insects in wood structures.
When moisture contents reach levels suitable for decay (i.e. around
25%), Bor8 Rods slowly dissolve and begin to diffuse throughout the
wood. Under 25%, the preservative becomes dormant.
Directions: Drill appropriate sized holes to
accommodate the predetermined number and size of Bor8 Rods required;
Insert the suitable size and number of Bor8 Rods into the holes; and
seal the hole with a treated wooded dowel, wood filler or caulk. Drill
holes 1/16" greater in diameter than the preservative rods to result in a
snug fit. This will ensure proper
diffusion in all directions from the rod. In addition, leave a minimum
of 1/8" of head space between Bor8 Rods and hole plug to allow for
expansion. After installation, paint or any other type of surface
coating may be applied to the wood if desired. Install Bor8 Rods in the
general vicinity of where the potential for decay is greatest or where
decay exists. Bor8 Rods can be inserted through any wood surface
depending on access, in either
a staggered, linear or angled pattern. Start at 1" from a joint or the
end of the wood and cover the entire affected length. Linear spacing
along the grain should not exceed 12" and spacing across the grain
should not exceed 3" on the center.
Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614
Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.
Carpenter Ants can sometimes be a problem if wood remains moist and wood rot occurs. If they are a problem, treat with Tim-bor
or an approved insecticide. Also look for the cause of the moisture and
try to eliminate it. Carpenter ants can enter a building by way of
vegetation that may touch the building. To help prevent this, trim
bushes and trees touching the building and watch for rotting stumps that
could have rotting root systems underground near your building. Insects
do not have to be a problem in your log home. Design your building to
keep moisture away from it so that moist wood does not encourage insect
problems. Stain additives such as Bug Juice or NBS 30 and wood
treatments also help to deter problems.
Borate Insecticide for Carpenter Ants
Borate treatments like Tim-bor, Armor-Guard or Sansin Boracol are best applied to bare wood, as they soak into the wood and kill insects that ingest it as well as protect against rot-causing fungus.
Tim-Bor® Professionalprotects
your log home from invasions of carpenter ants, drywood termites, wood
decay fungi, and wood boring beetles. Tim-Bor Professional’s active
ingredient is Disodium Octaborate Tetrahydrate (DOT), a natural borate
mineral salt and micronutrient. It is manufactured for use in the form
of a water-soluble borate powder. Once Tim-bor is applied in a liquid
form by foaming, misting, or spraying onto wood or other cellulosic
materials, the borate active ingredient creates a protective envelope
and remains for years of protection. Often, Tim-Bor Professional is
dusted into places like wall voids where pests like to hide as an
additional protection. When the dust gets on the insects, they clean
themselves and consume the boron during the cleaning process. Coverage: 200 sq. ft. per gallon. 5 year shelf life.
Armor-Guard
is a 100% powder borate wood preservative that you dissolve in water to
use. Armor-Guard protects uninfested wood from wood decay and wood
destroying insects. Like all borate treatments, your exterior wood
surfaces should be protected with a log home finish to seal in the
borates. Do not apply Armor-Guard over a stain or finish. Armor-Guard
stays near the surface and so should be reapplied if your log home
finish is physically or chemically removed. For a more penetrating
borate treatment for your log home see Shell-Guard RTU.
Sansin Boracol 20-2
is an inorganic, water-diffusible boron wood treatment that uses boric
acid - a natural wood decay inhibitor - to fight fungi and insect
infestations. Moisture is an essential ingredient for mold growth, so
using a water-borne anti-fungal treatment like Sansin Boracol is
particularly effective. The natural moisture of the wood itself carries
the boric acid through the wood fibers to saturate and protect any wet
areas. With a far wider spectrum of activity than conventional
preservatives, it can move deep into timber and even penetrate
heartwood. In addition to organic surfaces such as wood, Boracol works
to prevent mold on inorganic materials like stone or concrete. Sansin
Boracol is effective in preventing and killing dry rot, wet rot, white
rot, fungus, or insect attacks. It is recommended for use on roof, floor
or structural timbers, joinery, joist ends, brickwork, and door and
window framing. Boracol is odorless, non-staining, non-flammable and
easy to apply to both new and existing structures
Stain Additive Insecticides for Carpenter Ants
If there is already a stain or sealer on the log or wood home, then borate insecticides are less of an option. In this situation, it's possible to add insecticide to the finish when adding a new coat of stain or sealer. Bug Juice is one insecticide additive available on the market, and Outlast NBS 30 is an option for a repellent additive.
Bug Juice Stain Additive
is an odorless insecticide designed to eliminate crawling and flying
insects ranging from ants to mosquitoes and cockroaches to silverfish.
Bug Juice stain additive is a contact pesticide that begins to work
after an insect makes contact with the treated finish. Use on interior
and exterior surfaces, including kitchens and pantries.
Bug
Juice will not affect the color or drying time of the coating it’s
mixed with however, it is known to significantly reduce the transparency
and gloss of the clear Lifeline Advance Topcoat.
The finish mixed with Bug Juice must be used within 3 hours if added to
a latex-based (water-based) coating or 6 hours if added to an oil-based
coating. For mixing with oil based finishes, Penetrol is recommended. (BugJuice is not recommended for use with ProLuxe (Sikkens) stains and finishes due to a lack of testing). Bug Juice will last for the life of the coating it is mixed with and is EPA registered.
Outlast NBS 30 is a "Green" Insect Repellent - Naturally Repels: Carpenter Bees, Ants, Cockroaches, Lady Bugs, Dirt Daubers, Wasps, Spiders, Mosquitoes, and other nuisance insects. 100% Derived from Exempt Plant Oils and Components. Mix with Oil or Latex paints/stains or PLAIN WATER
For Exterior Coatings - Deters and inhibit insects
from burrowing through or crawling on exterior coatings and for use in
residential applications as well as dairy
facilities, golf courses,
parks, playgrounds, recreational areas, schools, landscape areas, etc.
Outlast NBS 30 Additive is effective in controlling crawling and nesting
activity on painted or stained surfaces to which it has been added.
Ants, cockroaches, beetles, mites, spiders, fleas, ticks, silverfish,
dirt daubers, bees and wasps will not crawl on, nest on or burrow
through coatings treated with Outlast NBS 30 Additive. Repels nuisance,
nesting insects and discourages Carpenter Ants and Bees from drilling
and reduces ladybug infestations. Safe for pets and people and will not
harm plants (extremely low toxicity). Mixes with oil and water-based
paints and stains. Sheen, curing time and luster of the coating may be
changed slightly by addition of the additive. Color may be affected very
slightly, and would be most noticeable in pure white paint. All natural
ingredients. Outlast NBS 30 is NOT an insect killer and is not intended for control of termites or other wood ingesting insects. Sold in pints
Bait Insecticides for Carpenter Ants
If the wood is not bare for borate application, or no sealer is due to be applied for stain additive insecticides, bait killers are another option. Bait insecticides in the form of granules or gel are often an effective way to eliminate carpenter ants in log homes, as the ants will sense the gel or granule as food and bring it back to share with the colony at the source. Some granules available are Niban and Advance, while Maxforce is a gel form of bait insecticide on the market for protecting log homes and wood homes from damaging insects.
Niban Granule Bait
is a weather resistant granule bait for the control of ants and
carpenter ants. For both interior and exterior use. Niban’s formula
provides broader protection inside and outside the home. Unlike other
granules Niban will not degrade in heat or sunlight and will last
through 4” of rain.Advance Granule Ant Bait
is a larger granule so only the large carpenter ants can manage it.
Special attractants and pellet size make this the most effective
carpenter ant bait on the market. For use inside and outside the home.
Kills Carpenter Ants and many common varieties of household ants such as
Acrobat, Argentine, Bigheaded, Crazy, Field, Fire, Harvester, Lasius,
Little Black, Pavement, Pharaoh, Odorous House and Thief Ants.
Maxforce Carpenter Ant Bait Gel
is the "honeydew" attractant of this sweet gel bait will draw carpenter
ants within minutes. For interior use. Makes about 40 placements. 27
gram container.
Armor-Guard
is a 100% powder borate wood preservative that you dissolve in water to
use. Armor-Guard protects uninfested wood from wood decay and wood
destroying insects. Like all borate treatments, your exterior wood
surfaces should be protected with a log home finish to seal in the
borates. Do not apply Armor-Guard over a stain or finish. Armor-Guard
stays near the surface and so should be reapplied if your log home
finish is physically or chemically removed. For a more penetrating
borate treatment for your log home see Shell-Guard RTU.
Remedial & Preventative Treatment: for remedial
control of organisms attacking wood, apply 10% aqueous solution of
Armor-Guard by brush or spay until surface is thoroughly wet
(approximately 5 gallons of solution per 1000 sq.ft.). Application may
also be made by drilling and then injecting the solution under pressure
into sound wood or until run-off is observed from entry/exit holes of
infested wood. * Alternatively, apply Armor-Guard powder to infested
members by drill and injection into galleries or dust generously on wood
surfaces and in wall voids at a rate of approximately 0.5 ounces (12-14
grams) per square foot.
Pre-Treatment: spray or powder/dust applications of
Armor-Guard may also be made to wood during construction. Apply solution
to all accessible surfaces of bare wood at a rate of approximately 5
gallons per 1000 sq.ft. Application should be performed after framing
and roofing are in place and before insulation and dry wall are
installed. Avoid spaying electrical components. Protect treated wood
from excessive rain. End-cuts of wood may also be treated by spray or
brush methods listed above, or by 5 minute dipping in Armor-Guard
treatment solution.
Armor-Guard Protects Against:
Ambrosia Beetles, Carpenter Ants, False Powder Post Beetles,
Furniture and Deathwatch Beetles, Longhorn Beetles, Old House Borers,
& Powder Post Beetles
Termites: Dampwood, Drywood, & Subterranean
Wood Decay Fungi
Features and Benefits
Can be used on all wood and wood composites
Provides a shell of protection around all treated wood
Will prevent and kill termites, carpenter ants, wood boring beetles and wood rot
Does not affect the color of wood
Does not interfere with the application of high quality wood finishes
Is easy to mix and apply and labeled for home owners to use
EPA approved
Application Temperature: 40° to 90° F. Coverage: Approximately 200 sq. ft. per gal. of mixed solution. A 17 lb. pail covers approximately 3,400 sq. ft. Coats: 1 coat application. Mix 1 pound (4 cups or 2 of the enclosed scoops) of powder with one gallon of water. Surface Prep: Must be clean dry bare wood. Do not apply over a finish. Drying Time: 1-3 days. Clean up: Soap and Water Shelf Life:
5 years; the stability of Armor-Guard in a liquid solution has a
limited life cycle. This is why we recommend to mix up only what you're
going to use and store the powder for later.
Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614
Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744
For restoring log ends like the ones pictured and maintaining the natural gray patina of the logs.
1. First, use a borate product like PeneTreat (see Tim-bor) to saturate the logs and keep them from rotting any further. 2. Next, use LiquidWood to seal cracks and create an undercoating for the WoodEpox to adhere to. 3. Then, use new lumber or a piece of straight grained salvaged or similar material to cut a "plug" to fill the cavity. 4. Saturate the plug with Tim-bor. 5.
After the Tim-bor has dried, coat the plug with Liquid Wood, insert the
plug and use WoodEpox to finish filling in around the plug and the
cavity wall. Note you can use Liquid Wood and sawdust to create a putty or a paste to fill the cavity as well. 6.
You can use a charcoal colored masonry pigment (available from masonry
stores). Just add enough of the pigment to color the WoodEpox gray like
the rest of the building. Just knead it in with the WoodEpox. Remember,
you only have to color the last 1/2" of the end of the log. 7. Use an end grain sealer like Log End Seal to seal the ends of the wood.
To add strength and stability to these log ends without replacing
them with new crowns: Drill 1' from the log end back horizontally into
the more stable wood and use 1' lengths of Fiberglass Reinforcement Rods to act as an internal strength pin. Use the Liquid Wood as a glue around the rod. You should use at least three rods per log.
To hide the end of the rods, you can cut a wooden end plug coated with LifeTime (LifeTime will turn the new wood gray to match the rest of the building).
Note: You can also spray the entire building with
LifeTime to keep it gray. What is really nice about the LifeTime is that
it is a one time application. You can also use products like Sansin WoodForce Clear, Outlast Q8 Log Oil 00 Clear, Woodguard or WR-5 Clear as a water protection for the building.
Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614
Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744
Cobra Rods
are a safe, Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) approved wood decay
protection and prevention system for log homes. Cobra Rods are a wood
preservative, fungicide, and insecticide that's safe to handle and made
entirely of a unique Boron and Copper Hydroxide complex. Cobra Rods
include the addition of Copper Hydroxide which provides extended
protection from fungus species not affected by borates, effectively
providing more protection then Impel Rods.
Cobra Rods take the form of a solid cylindrical rod that is
approximately 7/16" in diameter (use a 1/2" drill bit for installation)
and comes in 2" and 4" lengths. Cobra Rods are a deep green color and
has a glass-like look and feel. When used for logs, the Cobra Rods can
be "plugged" with caulking or chinking to aesthetically hide them.
CobraRod Plugs are also available (included with the 2" 10 pack and 3"
12 pack of Cobra Rods). Cobra Rods can be used in logs, landscape
timbers, deck joists, posts, and other places where moisture is present.
The treatment cycle is 8 to 10 years if wood moisture is 20% or higher.
Cobra Rods are placed into holes drilled in wood at specific high risk
locations (such as at the groundline or near joints and exposed
endgrain) and are dependent upon moisture in the wood to work.
Made in Canada.
Wood ends and joints are particularly susceptible to fungal attack and an appropriate size rod should be inserted within 3 inches of any end or joint in high-risk areas.
Linear spacing along the grain should never exceed 15 inches on center and spacing across the grain should
not exceed 6 inches on center. After the rods are in place, the holes should be plugged using a plastic plug,
wooden dowel, caulk, chinking or wood putty. The treated area can be painted, stained, or coated with any appropriate finish.
Application Steps
Drill appropriate size holes to accommodate the number and size of CobraRods required. Drill hole
size should be approximately 1/16” larger than rod size. Plug size should be approximately 1/16”
larger than hole size. (Consult the recommended Application Rate Table for this information).
Insert the CobraRods into the hole or holes.
Plug the hole with a plastic plug, wooden dowel, caulk or wood putty.
Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614
Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744
Rot, weather, insects, fungi all pose a serious threat
to your logs. Protect your investment—treat your logs
first to make them last.
All wood faces the possibility of rot and insect infestation—even in dry climates. Fungi and insects actually
consume the cells of dead wood, often causing severe
structural damage, damage that often requires log
replacement—a costly repair.
Tim-bor® helps protect your home from the costly
damage caused by rot and insect infestation.
What is Tim-bor® ?
Tim-bor® is a borate-based wood preservative.
Borates are well-known across the world for their
protective qualities. And like other borates, Tim-bor®
is highly effective in the prevention of most rot and
wood-boring insects.
When using Tim-bor®, a protective “shell” coating
helps defend your home against dry, wet, and brown rot
as well as termites, house borers, powderpost beetles
and carpenter ants (to name a few).
Tim-bor Professional Borate in 6 gallon and 1.5 pound
The Tim-bor® Difference
Tim-bor® is registered with the Environmental
Protection Agency (EPA) for spray and brush application, which makes it perfect for remedial treatment
when you follow all application and use guidelines.
Do not mix Tim-bor® into stains. For borates to be
effective and to provide long-term protection, they must
soak into the wood itself, not remain in the coating.
Although some stains contain borates, the low percent-
age of borate in the stain (generally 2-3%) provides lit-
tle to no appreciable benefit. Follow the Tim-bor® mix-
ing and application guidelines to achieve recommended
BAE (borate acid equivalent) levels that truly provide
long-term, effective protection.
Tim-bor® can be applied by brushing, spraying,
dipping, kerf-flooding or hole flooding. It comes in
powder form and just needs to be mixed with water for
application. Tim-bor® is packaged in two convenient
sizes: 6-gallon pails that are easy to carry and double as
a handy source for mixing the solution and the 1.5 lb.
packet—perfect for smaller jobs.
The active ingredient in Tim-bor® (disodium octaborate tetrahydrate, a refined form of the natural mineral
borax) is less toxic to people and animals than many
other chemicals used for wood preservation. However,
since no pesticide is completely safe, Tim-bor® must be
handled and used as directed. Borates do not affect the
natural color or strength of wood they are completely
odorless they’re not corrosive to metal fasteners, nails
or screws. And when a “Tim-bor® home” is properly
sealed against moisture, the borates can provide many
years of effective protection.
More Protection for Your Money
The best part about Tim-bor® is the money it saves
you. Not only is Tim-bor® affordable, it reduces the
risk of potential log replacement.
According to the most comprehensive study avail-
able, the depth of penetration of Tim-bor® is as deep or
deeper than other borate products that use slow-drying
and toxic solvents (like ethylene glycol) in their formulations. Contact Sashco at 1-800-767-5656 if you’d like
a copy of this study.
The Basics in Applying Tim-bor®
1. Read this entire Data Tec and the container label
before applying Tim-bor®. It is a violation of Federal
law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with
its labeling.
2. Mix Tim-bor® at a rate of 1-pound (1 loosely packed
quart) to 1-gallon of water.
3. Wood must be clean and bare; free of dirt, wax, mill
glaze and surface finishes, and wood surface temperature above 40̊F.
4. Apply Tim-bor® at the rate of 1 mixed gallon per 150
ft2 of wood surface. Apply a second coat 4 to 24 hours
later. Thoroughly soak cut ends, checks and cracks.
5. Coat the logs with a water-repellent finish after the
Tim-bor® solution has thoroughly dried. Use a moisture meter to verify that the log’s moisture content
doesn’t exceed 19%.
Where to Use Tim-bor®
Use Tim-bor® on above-ground wood surfaces,
including logs, timbers, dimensional lumber, siding, etc.
Wood subject to direct moisture contact must be coated
with a good water-repellent finish after treating with
Tim-bor®.
Surface Preparation
Wood surface must be bare: free of dirt, wax, mill
glaze and surface finishes. Remove all previous coat-
ings by media blasting, sanding, chemical stripping and/
or power washing. Surface discoloration from mold
or mildew should be treated with Sashco’s CPR® Log
Cleaner & Brightener before applying Timbor®. Read
“Keeping the Dream Alive,” Sashco’s complete staining guide, for more detailed instructions on this and the
finishing process.
Do not apply to frozen wood. Log (not air) temperature must be between 40̊F and 90̊F. It is best to apply
Tim-bor® to dry wood.
Mixing Tim-bor®
Mix at the rate of one pound, or loosely packed quart,
to one gallon of water. The Tim-bor® mixture requires
only mild stirring before application. The mixture will
be clear and water thin.
With this mixture, all application methods described
herein will yield a minimum retention level of 0.24
pounds per cubic foot boric acid equivalent to 1/2”.
Methods of Application
Tim-bor® may be applied by brushing, spraying
(with a garden sprayer), dipping, kerf-flooding or hole
flooding. Full immersion dipping yields the deepest and
most complete protection, especially with large logs.
Kerf-flooding accompanied with brushing or spraying,
yields nearly the same level of protection as dipping.
Brushing and spraying can completely penetrate dimensional lumber and can provide excellent “shell” protection for timbers and logs to a depth of 1/8” to 1/2” —
which is adequate for most applications.
NOTE: Diffusion of Tim-bor® into the wood begins
immediately and requires several days for completion.
With “shell” protection in large logs or timber, pre-existing insect larva may not be killed. Upon maturing,
they may emerge from the wood. Insects must ingest
the substance to be killed. Tim-bor® is not a contact
killer. Further insect infestations, however, will be prevented.
Brushing or Spraying
Apply Tim-bor® at a rate of 1 mixed gallon per 150
ft2 of wood surface. Apply a second coat 4 to 24 hours
later. Thoroughly soak cut ends and apply to checks and
cracks.
Kerf-Flooding,
Hole Flooding,
and Spraying/
Brushing
Logs 9” in diameter
and larger are often kerfed to control unwanted
checking. When kerfing
a log in the shape of a trough (with 3/8” wide chain saw
to a depth of 3”), simply pour the Tim-bor® solution
into the kerf. Fill the kerf at a rate of 15 to 20 lineal feet
per mixed gallon. Let soak. It will take 1 to 2 days for
the logs to absorb all the liquid.
Protection may also be
gained by pouring powdered
Tim-bor® into the kerf (0.2
to 0.3 pounds per lineal foot).
Pour water into the kerf to
dissolve and carry the Tim-bor® into the wood.
Brush or spray the exterior
of the logs with more Tim-bor® after either of these
methods as described above.
NOTE: Be sure the kerf or
holes do not affect the structural strength of the log.
HINT: Runoff from vertical walls may be contained
by using plastic sheeting to form an accumulation
basin. The trapped liquid may then be recycled and will
be prevented from injuring nearby foliage.
Dipping
Dip logs or lumber in Tim-bor® for 6 to 10 minutes, depending on log diameter. Let excess liquid
drain back into the tank, dip again 24 hours later. Cover
wood with a tarp or place in a shed for at least 48 hours
prior to coating with a good exterior finish.
After Applying Tim-bor®
Treated wood must be protected from direct contact
with moisture or the active ingredient may leach out.
It’s best to wait at least 48 hours (in warm, dry weather;
longer in cool, humid weather) after applying Tim-bor®
to coat wood with a water-repellent finish. Let the surface thoroughly dry and brush away any crystals that
appear before staining. Use a moisture meter to verify
that the logs’ moisture content doesn’t exceed 19%.
Clean Up
Use soap and water to clean equipment, skin and
clothing.
Please download the Tim-bor®
full info sheet for details on:
• Storage and Disposal
• First Aid
• Enviromental Hazards
• Warranty
www.sashco.com/timbor-sds-info
Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614
Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744
Wood is an incredibly strong building material, but it must be protected properly to stand the test of time, and that means protecting it against wood-destroying fungi, insects and mold. Sansin Boracol 20-2 is designed to do just that - fight fungi and insect infestation. It is recommended for use on roof, floor or structural timbers, joinery, joist ends, and door and window framing. Boracol 20-2 penetrates wood exceptionally well – even heartwood, up to 3-5mm deep. It establishes a reserve from where further penetration takes place (up to 40 mm over two years in dry wood).
Because Boracol diffuses with moisture, it migrates into areas with higher moisture content. Boracol can also be used to eradicate wood rot in existing structures, and it can also be used to protect new and existing logs and timbers against fungi and wood-boring insect. In addition to organic surfaces such as wood, Boracol works to prevent mold on inorganic materials like stone or concrete. Sansin Boracol contains boron, which is far less hazardous than traditional treatments and will give your project the lasting protection it needs – with low toxicity.
The Science Behind Boracol
Premature decay of untreated wood that was periodically or permanently exposed to increased moisture content (over 25%) reached serious proportions in North America in the mid-2000s. As a result, requirements for reliable treatments were introduced. Boron-based wood preservatives were found to be the most acceptable pre- and remedial treatment for rot and insect attack.
In addition to their proven efficiency, the borate formulations are widely accepted as environmentally safe wood preservatives, having very low toxicity. Boracol wood preservatives are based on inorganic Boron (disodium octaborate tetrahydrate), which not only has the ability to diffuse in moist wood but also contains a very low vapor pressure and has the ability to progressively penetrate the wood even several years after application. Over this time, because of the boron concentration in the wood, the degrading organisms have no chance to survive and cause damage.
The only condition for proper performance is that the treated wood should not be exposed to direct contact with water (i.e. wood-in-ground contact or occasional heavy rain over construction wood). If the wood is exposed to water in this way, it is possible the Boron will “travel the opposite way” by a leaching process. To keep this from happening, a post-treatment application of the wood surfaces is recommended by applying a proven wood protection system like Sansin SDF, DEC or Classic 1-2-3.
How to Apply Boracol
Boracol can be applied by brushing, dipping or spraying. Within the first 24 to 48 hours, the product will penetrate 3-5 mm deep into the wood and will establish a reserve of over-concentrated Boron from which further penetration and diffusion will take place depending on the wood’s moisture content.
Brush Application: This method requires some shear force to be applied in order to evenly spread the product over a range of different surface profiles. The brushing method yields best results if applied before wood components are assembled.
Dipping: This method requires a non-corrosive dipping tank and an additional support surface inclined at an angle to allow excess product to drain off into the tank. The advantage of this method is that all the surfaces – including splits and cracks – are fully treated.
Spraying:Different spray applicators can be used, and the viscosity of the product can be adapted by adding up to 5% water.
Injection Method: This method is used to increase the quantity of Boron in wood locations where condensed water may be trapped for a longer period. A syringe-type injector can be used to fill cracks and gaps or pre-drilled holes.
It is advised to clean the wood before treatment. Vacuum cleaning, power washing or compressed air are good ways to remove dirt. Boracol forms a wet-appearing film on wood surfaces as soon as the product is applied. The film will stay on wood for a period necessary for the solvent to penetrate the wood surface, bringing the Boron compound deeper in the wood. During this time, the treated wood surfaces should be protected from contact with water.
If the treated wood is intended for subsequent paint or stain application, allow at least seven days for Boracol to completely penetrate and disappear from the surface. If a slight film or crystal-like particles are visible, the surface should be wiped off with a damp cloth. Light sanding can be very helpful to remove boron crystals and improve adhesion of the coating. Subsequent coating is particularly important when wood is exposed to contact with rain or con-densed water that stays trapped in the wood for a longer period of time (e.g. balconies). To learn more about Sansin Boracol 20-2, click here.
Checking is a natural occurrence that occurs in wood as it dries and acclimates to the surrounding atmospheric conditions. There are some things that can help reduce the effect of checking. Radial checking is the most common. That’s when the log shrinks as moisture is removed. To give you a better idea of how that looks. Picture the growth rings of the tree as a length of rope. It breaks as the wood dries. Know think the length of rope, it will shrink in length and get shorter. The longer the rope the more it more it will shrink. As these checks occur some will be bigger and others smaller as the logs reach specific gravity (G). You can see more in the ICC 400 Log Standards section 302. Those checks can be seen exterior and interior, horizontal and vertical. While some see them as part of the log, others find them very displeasing. Besides the appearance there are some things that need to be addressed when checks are on the exterior of a structure. Foremost, upward facing checks are like gutters, collecting water in all its forms. This water becomes trapped and is absorbed in the wood fibers. It then starts to decay the wood internally where it can not be seen. Even if the logs look fine on the exterior, stain and sealers are doing their job. The hidden damages can cause expensive log replacement
Bigger checks of 1" or more I like to cut out a taper in the check. Using a small saw, I use a small electric chain saw. In which I cut tapers within the check making sure to go all the way to the very ends of the check. This is important as you can not caulk or seal those small ends properly. I do this for two reasons. One, to make a space for the wooden wedge I cut to fit the check. Two to cut out all the splinters to create a good fit for the backer strips required before caulking. On the job site I will use a 2X and circular saw set at angle to cut the wooden wedge. These I like to make a bit bigger so they extend beyond the log. That way I can grind off to fit. I fill the checks with either powder or liquid borates using a squeeze bottle. Like from a dish soap of ketchup bottle. I use glue to adhere the wedges. A good all weather adhesive I use is UltraTech 0770 ADA by Loctite. After the wedge dries is fully dried, grinded down and sanded. I can then match the stain and finish as needed.
Conceal Grizzly Brown
For checks that do not need wood, proceed with the same method but use backer strips that fit the check. They come in many sizes. The use of backer is very important as it creates that all important two point adhesion that bonds much better and allows the product to stretch properly. If backer is not used product could pull from the wood and there is no mid point of expansion to stretch. Follow the curves of the check with the saw and backer. Again, don’t forget the borates. A proper backer in inserted in the check is 1/4'” – 3/8” below the surface of the face of the log. This gives a depth that will hold a good amount of caulk, but not wasting by using to much. Tool using water mixed with a little dish soap. You can use a small brush with hair or foam. Wipe any excess off with a rag wiping in the same direction each time. I like using caulk designed for applications I am doing. Textured products like Conceal have grits that make it much less noticeable when dry. Other caulks are very smooth, and wood is not so much. Colors change as they dry so always do a test area first. Stain can also be applied over these areas after proper curing.
By Gary Schroeder (revised and reprinted from our Spring 1999 issue of Log Core newsletter)
Wood, and in this case the log, was a living substance; as soon as the tree is cut the biological breakdown of wood begins. The wood is protected for some time by first the bark and in the cold months of the year, temperature. As soon as the bark (shell) is removed, fungi can land on the unprotected wood and start its work. The steps of rot are mold and mildew, sapstain, white stringy rot, brown cubical rot and then just organic powder. The mold and mildew attack the surface to break the shell, then the sapstain goes into the wood deeper to start the transportation of water down into the wood to help decay. Next comes the white stringy rot with white filaments coming to the surface to seek out water and bring it deeper into the wood. Then the rotting fungi starts to basically unglue the individual wood cells to bring it back to powder.
If we can slow down the breakdown of the shell, then we can prolong the breakdown of the internal wood fibers. Through spraying on a diluted preservative, we can accomplish this task. Now not all woods deteriorate at the same rate, for the white oaks, cedar, redwood and many others have toxins within the wood cells to help retard the rotting process. However, the pines which are softwoods have a tendency to rot more quickly. Pine wood also has less density because the cells contain more air that permits quicker entry of the fungi. Enough of why, and on to what deterrents we can apply to the surface to retard the fungi.
We have several products out of a multitude of products on the market. The products we choose to carry are Sansin Timber-Tec, TM-5 First Treat, Sta-Brite P, and PQ-80. We carry these because they are more environmentally friendly than others. However, do not be fooled with the word “friendly”. Any material in stronger concentrates can still be unfriendly.
Sansin Timber-Tec is diluted 1:1 with water. Two options are available: M-30 provides the natural light color of fresh pine and C-20 provides a light honey color to the wood once dried. Its water repellency and UV protection helps during the construction phase
TM-5 First Treat can be diluted 1:1 with water, and in some rare occurrences can be diluted 2:1 if dry weather is expected or if applied to woods that do not sapstain easily. The ingredients in TM-5FT deter rot, sapstain, mildew and mold. However, because it is working within the wood and at times on the surface, it may not stop natural graying and mildew. If reapplied as the previous applications weathers off, it will repel mildew better.
Sta Brite P & PQ-80 are both super concentrated and can only be shipped from the manufacturer or picked up at our Grand Rapids, MN office. Stay Brite P mixes at the rate of 2.56 oz. per gallon or 12.8 oz. per 5-gallons of water, or as the contractor wants to mix it. This product is highly effective and has a bleaching agent in it that will lighten the logs. PQ-80 is similar to the Sta Brite P but contains Copper 8 quinolinolate that is safe for use on food boxes. This product leaves a brownish pigment to the wood. Note: These products are only sold to builders.
To Remember: Fungi need moisture to live. Because moisture is such an important factor to sapstain and rotting, we are mainly concerned about these during the time the wood is cut and to the point that it reaches 20% moisture content. Dry wood does not need protection of this type. Dry wood only requires a finish to keep it dry.
The other thing to remember concerning spraying on mildewcides and finishes is that it causes a film barrier to prevent other liquids from entering the wood. Because of this barrier, it is a requirement to break this barrier down at a later date by pressure washing to allow other products to enter the wood. Some people may wish to apply a borate product like PeneTreat before spraying on the sapstain control. This is permissible. There are different mixing application rates for PeneTreat and the sapstain controls. Because of these different mixing and application rates, it is best to spray them independently. This can be done in either of two methods. First, spray on before sapstain control or Second, pressure wash surface after the house is up and then apply the PeneTreat. This application is recommended so that the most amount of PeneTreat is absorbed into the logs prior to applying the finish.
Questions? Give us a call at 1-800-359-6614 or contact us here.