Log Home Chinking vs Caulking

What is the difference being caulking and chinking? We hear this question all the time. They are somewhat interchangeable in application- to some degree- but there are differences. Modern caulking and chinking are both flexible sealants that are used to seal log homes. Historically, chinking and daubbing were a myriad of material put between the courses of logs to fill the gaps and keep out the weather. It may have been any combination of mud, manure, straw, horsehair, moss, or whatever the local environment provided. Gradually that was replaced with a mortar mixture, often applied over wire mesh or other hardware to keep it in place as the mortar dried and cracked. Now we have modern, synthetic log home chinking and caulking. When properly applied, these elastic sealants will stretch and move with the wood to maintain a bond and keep water, weather, and pests out of the home and keep the heat inside during winter months. Following its history, modern chinking is a textured sealant that simulates mortar but stretches like caulking and is most often put over a backer rod between the logs. Caulking can also be used to seal the lateral joints of logs when a subtle, non-chinked style is needed, and it’s also used with backer rod to keep water out of log checks and to seal all other gaps around doors, windows, and other spaces.

At Schroeder Log Home Supply Inc., we believe in the importance of using the right product for the job, and that means using quality sealants that are designed to bond and be elastic for the best performance with log and wood. Brands we carry are Big StretchCaulking, CheckMate2, Conceal Textured Caulking, Energy SealCaulking, Log Builder Caulking, Manus-Bond Caulking, WoodsmanCaulking, Log Jam Chinking, Perma-Chink, and Sansin Timber-TecChinking. Contact us to help decide which may be best for your situation, or to get a color card to determine the best match to your wood finish.

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

Log Builder Caulking - NEW Now Available in Clear!

In addition to the popular colors Tan, Woodtone and Dark Brown, Log Builder Caulking is now available in Clear. It’s the same excellent elasticity and ease of application you’ve grown to love, now in CLEAR. Great for sealing tongue and groove pine while staying undetectable. Also stainable to help blend in with…well, whatever color is there. Available in 10.5 oz. and 30 oz. cartridges, as well as 5 gallon pails.
 

 Log Builder Caulking by Sashco is a log home caulking sealant with a limited lifetime warranty. Sashco Log Builder Caulking is designed to meet the demanding sealant needs log homes and is compatible with most construction materials. Sashco Log Builder Caulking is water resistant in 1-4 hours. Sashco Log Builder caulking has superior water resistance. Plus excellent resistance to UV rays. Sashco Log Builder Caulking develops powerful adhesion, remains a rubbery sealant for many years. Not only does Log Builder caulking have powerful adhesion to sound wood - it sticks to a lot more. Granted, you want your sealant to have superior adhesion to all species of wood, but Sashco Log Builder caulking adheres to a variety of surfaces. After all, your log home doesn't just consist of wood. What about windows, doors, and baseboards made of a different material? Sashco Log Builder caulking sticks to most building materials including glass, plastics, and metals. So you can seal around those windows, doors and baseboards effectively. And you can fill checks and cracks since Log Builder caulking adheres to most log home stains and finishes too. Sashco Log Builder caulking has water-based chemistry that is environmentally friendly. All Sashco caulking including Log Builder Caulking is recommended for use with Backer Rod when used with logs. Made in the USA. Log Builder Caulking - How Well Does it Stick? Application Temperature: 40-90° F (log surface temp.) Cleanup: Soap and water. Log Builder Caulking Data | SDS

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

What is the R-Value of a Log Wall?

1. Wood has a thermal transmission factor, called k. It is used in calculations to generate the R-value of an assembly, but only certified insulation products have specific R-values. The U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) rates an Eastern White Pine log at R-1.42 per inch which might mean an 8” log would be R-11.4, but that’s not the whole story.

2. Home Energy Raters do not take into account the thermal mass value of a solid wood assembly.

3. The DOE has issued a grant to Oak Ridge National Laboratory (ORNL) and the International Mass Timber Alliance (IMTA) to research the energy conserving properties of mass timber. Mass timber can be solid wood like logs and timbers, or laminated wood like glue-lam beams and cross-laminated timber panels.

4. Work done at the ORNL in Tennessee has proven the following:

1. A 7- inch thick mass timber wall is 22% more efficient than a stick built structure with R-19 insulation.

2. Improved thermal comfort with thermal mass (up to 46% fewer uncomfortable hours due to convective air flow). Thermal comfort is the condition of mind that expresses subjective satisfaction with the thermal environment.

• Lightweight assemblies (stick built structures) respond over a short time to temperature changes both inside and outside.

• Mass assemblies (Log, concrete, brick) respond slowly to changes not only in temperature, but relative humidity. Since mass absorbs and radiates heat and humidity, it tempers the indoor environment.

3. Peak demand was up to 50% lower with mass wood depending on the month and location.

An example of peak demand is everyone coming home from work at the same time and turning the air conditioning on.

5. IMTA efforts are continuing as they are building three pairs of 3-meter cubes, one stick built and one of mass timber.

A pair of cubes are set up in Tennessee with more in Texas, and Colorado to replicate a more operational environment.

Over a 2- year period, constant temperature monitoring will take place. The data from these cubes will be used to prove the computer simulations used to design the cubes. The simulations will then be used to generate new thermal codes for mass timber walls.

 

The IMTA is a not-for-profit, charitable organization that promotes Mass Wood Construction and sustainability, energy efficiency, low embodied energy, and carbon sequestration, by the following engagements.

• Identifying barriers which challenge the use of mass wood construction in residential and commercial applications.
• Pursuing scientific research and testing in collaboration with post secondary institutions, government, and non-governmental organizations.
• Disseminating data pertinent to the development of building codes and energy standards that reflect wood’s value proposition.

 

Log Home Caulking, Chinking, & Sealing FAQs

 Can I stain before caulking or chinking?

When applying water-based caulk and chinking like Conceal, Energy Seal, Log Builder caulking, Log Jam chinking, or Perma-Chink, and using a water based stain, it may be applied before of after staining. If using oil-based finishes like NatureColor Base or Recoater, Woodguard, or WR-5:
1. Apply caulk or chinking over one coat, and then apply a second coat of finish the following year.
2. Wait at least 21 days after staining before caulking or chinking to allow for cure time. (Paraffinic oils like in X-100 can cause adhesion failures.)

Do I need backer rod?

Yes, if chink joints are greater than 1/4". See Backer Rod and Chinking.

What does the temperature need to be to apply caulk or chinking?

See "Surface Preparation".

What can I use to smooth out my caulking or chinking?

People use various kinds of "tooling" devices. The most popular would probably be a spatula of some sort at the desired width. Some people use a cake spatula if an industrial one is not available. Butter knives, rubber spatulas, and foam brushes have also been used.

How do I prevent blisters from forming in log home caulk and chinking?

Click here for details.

I have flat on flat logs, what do I put between them?

There are a couple of alternatives to put in between logs for a flat on flat system:

1. The first is to lay a bead of adhesive caulking on each side of the log; see Conceal or Woodsman Caulking.
2. The other alternative is a product called LogSeal. Some of the features of LogSeal are sealing against water, cold, heat, light and noise. LogSeal has adhesive on one side with an easy-release protective liner, providing fast and easy placement during construction. LogSeal provides easy application for flat on flat and saddle notch systems. When using for flat on flat construction, lay one line of LogSeal on the outer edge and one line on the inner edge.

Do I need to caulk after using LogSeal?

Yes. It is always important to seal the exterior side with log home caulk or chinking to keep moisture (in the form of rain or splash-back) out from the log joints. The log caulking also helps to keep insects from working their way in.

Should I buy a 5-gallon pail or tubes?

Economically, it is better to buy a 5-gallon pail; however you don't start saving money until you purchase two 5-gallon pails because of the cost of tools for pail application. A 5-gallon pail is equivalent to twenty-two 29 oz. tubes. It will also depend on what the you feel comfortable with, caulking tubes or a bulk loading gun.

If I buy a 5-gallon pail, how do I get it into my caulk gun?

By using a Follow Plate.

How do I clean and take care of my Albion bulk loading gun?

See "Care of Albion Bulk Loading Guns".

How to Prevent Blisters in Caulk and Chinking

Occasionally, blistering of a chinked or caulked surface occurs. A chinked area is more susceptible to blistering due to the larger joint size. After several years of investigation, Sashco Sealants has uncovered most or all of the causes* of this problem and can recommend ways to prevent it.* At first it was thought that the chinking itself was to blame. But the facts do not support this. For example:

•  The same batch of product has blistered on one log and not on another.
•  It is common to find blisters on one side of a house and not the other.
•  Blisters occur above a certain point on a wall and not below it.
•  Some blisters appear to be random on a chinking line and others are in a straight row.
•  Blisters often reappear in the same place when repaired with the same batch of chinking or even with a different batch.

The Causes are Site related and not product or batch related.

Causes of Blisters: The basic cause of any blister is a build-up of gas between the log, the backing surface, and the chinking or caulking. It occurs during The early curing stages when The chinking is soft but has a skin formed on the surface. Heat usually in the form of direct sunlight causes the gas to expand. As the gas expands, it pushes the chinking out, causing a "bubble" or blister. This gas comes from water, wood sap, or even backing material.

What Circumstances Create the Gas? Trapped Water Vapor. As chinking and caulking dries, it gives off water vapor. Any physical condition which traps the resulting water vapor could cause a blister, especially if the logs and chinking are heated by direct sunlight here are some things that could trap this vapor.

• Cracks or indentations in foam or polyethylene backer rod which doesn't go all the way through. Even tiny spaces can trap enough vapor to create a blister big enough to see.
• Air bubble trapped during the application process against non-porous backer material.
• Dead-end crack in wood where moisture vapor can accumulate and expand when heated. (This, most likely, is the most wide-spread cause.)

Note Manus-Bond Caulking is not affected by water vapor in the same as other caulking or chinking because it is a polyurethane. Moisture makes it set up faster and will not generally cause blistering.

.

Backing Material Backer rod out-gassing. Closed cell backer rod has a puncture and is squeezed by expanding logs. The gas used to make the rod forces a blister in the chinking and caulking.

On Day 1 the backer rod and sealant are applied in the cool part of the day. On Day 2 the sun comes out and heats the logs. This causes the backer rod to be squeezed, and forces a small amount of gas in the backer rod to leave the rod at a rupture or weak spot and make a blister in the sealant. The phenomenon has been known to occur in the caulk and sealant industry for many years and occurs randomly and unpredictably.

Pitch Pockets Logs often have what is termed "pitch pockets." These are areas of concentrated pitch, or sap, sometimes containing several gallons! (Pitch pockets of 50 or more gallons are known!) This sap (or its vapor) will follow cracks in logs, coming out of the log almost anywhere. It especially exits at the knots Where the sap flow was directed during the life of the tree. Sap has a volatile component and, when heated, forms a gas that causes blisters. Some blisters appear to be in the dead center of the chinking/ caulking. Upon close investigation, however, most or all of the bubbles are connected to a crack in the log surface. The blisters are often the result of sap vapor, which can come through the tiniest of holes in the wood. Pitch pockets are often the cause of blisters, which line up in a straight row. They are simply aligned with the crack in the log along which the sap is traveling. In the heat of direct sunlight some of the liquid sap in the pitch pocket turns into a gas that is under pressure and can form a blister as it tries to escape the log.

Prevention of Blisters Some of these causes cannot be controlled. Two factors can be partially controlled - heat and backer rod selection/preparation. Since heat normally is responsible for turning undetected gas into unsightly blisters, it makes sense to control this element as much as possible. Once the chinking and caulking has become firm, it can then resist the low pressure from the water or sap vapor and the blisters can then be prevented.

Control the Heat:

• Chink or caulk on the shady, cool side.

• Protect walls from direct sunlight for a few days by covering with a light colored tarp, cloth or plastic. Leave plenty of room for ventilation. It is important to cover the logs as well as the chinking and caulking so the entire surface will stay cool.

• Stain logs first. This can help to close some pitch pocket holes before chinking and caulking.

• Although rare, it is possible for excessive heat to build up inside a log home during the early curing stage and cause blisters. If this could occur, make sure windows and doors are left open to allow cool air to ventilate the interior.

Control the Backing Material:

• Use blunt tools to install closed cell backing materials, being careful to avoid puncturing or denting.

• Open cell backer rod** may be used in place of closed cell backer rod. These backer rods will not generate gas and they can help dissipate any gas originating from another source. **The weakness of this type of backer rod is that it is more susceptible to absorbing moisture if the chinking or caulking is ruptured and driving rain is forced through to the backer rod.

• When chinking and caulking over flat insulation (styrofoam, bead board or foil-faced foam board), surface cracks, holes, or dents should be covered with a high quality sticky mylar tape, 2" wide preferably. (The tape will tend to prevent as much as 80% of the blisters that would otherwise form.) Extruded styrene foam (such as Dow Chemical's blue "Styrofoam") has a greater tendency to cause blisters than white bead board or foil-faced urethane foam.

• A fresh blister can sometimes be eliminated by puncturing the surface skin (to let the moisture vapor escape) and pushing the chinking and caulking back into place. This step can cause marring of the chinking finish, but can be smoothed out 2-3 days later (after the chinking has firmed up) with a small amount of Log Jam applied and smoothed. Often the blister will not reappear. To be effective, this action must be taken within the first day after application, while the underlying chinking and caulking is still wet This method can be the most effective and efficient since the blisters are caught very early (before they become very large) and repaired quickly.

• More thoroughly cured blisters must be cut off flush and the cavity filled approximately one-fourth to one-half full and allowed to dry. If the cause of the original blister is still present, then it will push the fresh chinking and caulking out into a shallow blister below the surface of the surrounding chinking/ caulking. This may be allowed to dry and a second application, blending with the surrounding chinking, will complete the repair. (See the drawings.)

• If you can cover a crack or hole with mylar tape, only one repair step is needed. Chinking and caulking can be installed flush with the surrounding material.

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Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

 

Perma-Chink Energy Seal Textured Caulking

 Perma-Chink Energy Seal Textured Caulking is a Log Home Sealant designed for Milled and Scribed Log Homes. Energy Seal, was created specifically to seal milled or scribed log homes. One application makes any log wall completely weather-tight. Energy Seal has excellent adhesion and stretch. Its long-lasting, UV-stable and chemical-resistant formula has become a popular log home sealant. Unlike many commonly used sealants, which look shiny and artificial, Energy Seal is textured to match the visual characteristics of wood. It tools easily to a smooth, professional finish, virtually disappearing into the walls after it's applied. It softens the lines on log walls and accepts the color of wood finishes. In fact, Energy Seal so closely matches your walls, most people can't tell the seams are sealed. Made in the USA.

 Directions for Use 

STEP #1: INSPECTION

Check for deterioration and decay. Remove and replace or repair deteriorated wood. Unsound wood should be repaired prior to applying ENERGYSEAL. Contact any Perma- Chink Systems office for information about wood repairs.

STEP #2: SURFACE PREPARATION 

All surfaces should be clean and free of contaminates including dirt, dust, mold, mildew, oil and wax. Use appropriate materials to clean and prepare surfaces. Do not apply ENERGYSEAL over old caulk. If a wood preservative has been previously applied, make sure it is completely dry before applying ENERGYSEAL. If the surface is tacky or there are visible deposits on the wood, wipe the surface with a wet rag and allow to dry. If an oil-based stain has been applied, allow it to dry at least two weeks before applying ENERGYSEAL. Request a copy of “Log Home Sealant Application Guide” from any Perma-Chink Systems office for information about surface preparation and sealant application. 

STEP #3: BACKING MATERIALS

Depending on the log structure, Grip Strip (trapezoid) or Backer Rod (round) should be placed into the gap before the ENERGYSEAL is applied. This provides a more effective two-way (top and bottom) adhesion. When sealing small seams between logs, the Backer Rod may be held in place by running a small bead of ENERGYSEAL along the seam and sticking the Backer Rod to it. After about 30 minutes ENERGYSEAL may then be applied over the Backer Rod without displacing it. 

STEP #4: APPLICATION 

ENERGYSEAL is compatible with most stains. For maximum adhesion and least visibility use ENERGYSEAL on bare wood prior to staining. If ENERGYSEAL is to be used over newly applied stains or topcoats, apply the product in an obscure area, wait 24 hours and test for adhesion. Do not apply ENERGYSEAL in direct sunlight or when the temperature is less than 40° F. ENERGYSEAL may be applied with a bulk loading caulk gun or applicator bag. Hold the applicator tip firmly against the back surface and apply. Apply enough sealant to maintain a wet thickness of 3/8” across the entire joint after tooling. Only apply as much sealant as you can tool in about 15 minutes. Once the joint is filled, spray with a light mist of water and tool smooth with a trowel or spatula. If the width of the trowel is close to the width of the joint, the smoothing process will be easier. Make sure there is good contact between the ENERGYSEAL and the exposed edges of the top and bottom logs. If you are a first time applicator, start work on a less visible area until you become familiar with the process. 

STEP #5: DRYING AND CURING TIME STEP 

Protect freshly applied ENERGYSEAL from direct rainfall for a minimum of 24 hours. When draping a wall with plastic film, allow some airspace between the wall and the plastic to facilitate drying. Drying time and curing time are two entirely different terms. In warm or hot weather, ENERGYSEAL will begin to skin over in as little as ten minutes while a complete cure may take three to four weeks. Cooler weather will slow both the drying time and curing process. 

STEP #6: CLEANUP 

Clean area and equipment immediately with warm, soapy water before the ENERGYSEAL dries. For removing Perma-Chink that has dried, soften with alcohol and then clean with warm water. Please do not pollute our environment. Dispose of containers and unused material in accordance with local, state, and federal regulations.

STEP #7: MAINTENANCE

Periodic cleaning with an appropriate cleaner such as Log Wash™ will clean off dust and dirt and accentuate the beauty of your home. We recommend that log walls be washed down at least twice a year. Small rips and tears may be repaired using a bead of ENERGYSEAL and a damp short bristled brush to blend it in with the surrounding area. 

STEP #8: STORAGE

Store ENERGYSEAL out of direct sunlight and protect from freezing. Although ENERGYSEAL is freeze-thaw stable, if the product is accidentally frozen, allow to thaw, mix well and check for suitability of use before applying. 

Full data sheet can be found here.

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

Bor8 Rods (Impel Rods)

Bor8 Rods (previously known as Impel Rods) are a highly effective preservative system for the prevention and control of fungal decay (log rot) and many destructive insects in wood structures. When moisture contents reach levels suitable for decay (i.e. around 25%), Bor8 Rods slowly dissolve and begin to diffuse throughout the wood. Under 25%, the preservative becomes dormant. 

Directions: Drill appropriate sized holes to accommodate the predetermined number and size of Bor8 Rods required; Insert the suitable size and number of Bor8 Rods into the holes; and seal the hole with a treated wooded dowel, wood filler or caulk. Drill holes 1/16" greater in diameter than the preservative rods to result in a snug fit. This will ensure proper diffusion in all directions from the rod. In addition, leave a minimum of 1/8" of head space between Bor8 Rods and hole plug to allow for expansion. After installation, paint or any other type of surface coating may be applied to the wood if desired. Install Bor8 Rods in the general vicinity of where the potential for decay is greatest or where decay exists. Bor8 Rods can be inserted through any wood surface depending on access, in either a staggered, linear or angled pattern. Start at 1" from a joint or the end of the wood and cover the entire affected length. Linear spacing along the grain should not exceed 12" and spacing across the grain should not exceed 3" on the center.

 

 

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

Sashco Log Builder Caulking

 Log Builder Caulking by Sashco is a log home caulking sealant with a limited lifetime warranty. Sashco Log Builder Caulking is designed to meet the demanding sealant needs log homes and is compatible with most construction materials. Sashco Log Builder Caulking is water resistant in 1-4 hours. Sashco Log Builder caulking has superior water resistance. Plus excellent resistance to UV rays. Sashco Log Builder Caulking develops powerful adhesion, remains a rubbery sealant for many years. Not only does Log Builder caulking have powerful adhesion to sound wood - it sticks to a lot more. Granted, you want your sealant to have superior adhesion to all species of wood, but Sashco Log Builder caulking adheres to a variety of surfaces. After all, your log home doesn't just consist of wood. What about windows, doors, and baseboards made of a different material? Sashco Log Builder caulking sticks to most building materials including glass, plastics, and metals. So you can seal around those windows, doors and baseboards effectively. And you can fill checks and cracks since Log Builder caulking adheres to most log home stains and finishes too. Sashco Log Builder caulking has water-based chemistry that is environmentally friendly. All Sashco caulking including Log Builder Caulking is recommended for use with Backer Rod when used with logs. Made in the USA. 

 

Fundamental Caulking Application Guidelines

• Proper substrate preparation and application are imperative for product longevity. Read this entire info sheet (LBR 002) before applying any product. 

• Make certain there is compatibility between your stain and Log Builder. We recommend Sashco’s Capture®/Cascade® or Transformation Stains® for exterior applications and Symphony® interior clear coat for beautiful long-term protection. Best results are obtained when Log Builder is applied to clean, stained wood. Call Sashco at 800-767-5656 for guidance if in doubt. 

• Check the weather forecast. Finishing products are best-applied in moderate weather conditions, i.e., out of direct sunlight, and in dry, warm conditions.. 

• Check the log surface temperature. The surface temperature should be between 40˚F (4˚C) – 90˚F (32˚C). 

• It is always best to use a bond breaker (usually backer rod) before caulking. Sashco strongly recommends the use of backer rod, especially if the home is new and/or the logs are subject to significant movement. If a bond breaker is not used, expect more caulking repairs. 

• Tool Log Builder to help ensure good contact with the log surfaces, especially to the upper log; this will greatly aid adhesion. 

• Ideal sealant depth is 1/2 of the joint width, but no less than 1/4” and no more than 1/2”.

• Assemble tools and equipment: - Backer rod - Caulking guns - Trowels, spatulas, or foam brushes for tooling - Clean water and rags - Plastic sheets to cover the caulking if wet weather moves in - Staple gun & staples

Surface Preparation

Best results are obtained when Log Builder is applied to wood that has been previously coated with a compatible and thoroughly cured stain. In fact, Log Builder has a Limited Lifetime Warranty when applied over any of Sashco’s stains: Capture Log Stain or Transformation Stain. 

If not using a Sashco stain, be sure to confirm its compatibility with Log Builder. If the stain is older but still intact, clean the log surfaces thoroughly to remove dirt, pollen, bird droppings, and other surface contaminants.

The USDA Forest Products Laboratory and other researchers around the world have recently reported that surface wood exposed to sunlight for as little as 1-2 weeks can become significantly damaged and unsound which may lead to premature adhesive failure of coatings. Such surface wood damage has the potential to also hurt Log Builder’s (or any caulk’s) adhesion. Once bare wood has been properly cleaned and prepped to remove unsound wood, stain should be applied as soon as possible. Follow with Log Building caulking.

A few sealers, especially those high in wax content or non-drying oils, may interfere with adhesion. Some of these coatings can hurt any caulk’s adhesion—whether applied before or after the caulk—so we advise against their use. Check with Sashco if you have questions about your particular product.

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

Avoid Peeling Finishes and Sunburned Logs

In this photo you can see the finish has blistered, cracked, and is starting to peel. This has happened because the finish has lost its adhesion. (Notice the top area where the log has become sunburned and turned gray).

One of the factors for peeling is the moisture content of the logs when they were coated. If the logs were too wet (20% or higher), the logs will continue to dry out and as they dry the resident moisture will move from the center of the log outwards to the surface. The moisture will form on the surface of the log between the finish and the wood. If the finish is very thick and heavy, a blister will form because the moisture can't pass through the barrier of the finish. If your logs are still quite green, we suggest that you apply only one coat of a log keeper finish, such as TM5 First Treat or Colorfast. This will give the logs some protection while still allowing the moisture to escape out through the one coat of finish. Once the logs have dried out to 19% or less, then you can apply your final finish. You can test the moisture content of your logs with a Moisture Meter. Also, moisture can also occur from checks holding water. When heat from the sun reaches and heats the log’s surface, the moisture is pulled to the surface causing a break in the wood-to-finish adhesion.

Any type of finish, either oil or water based can peel. Remember, it is the amount of finish build up that will provide the potential for peeling. Penetrating finishes tend to peel less because instead of acting like a plastic coating on the logs, they don't build up into one thick coating (less "plastic") thus, allowing moisture to escape out through the thinner coating. They do tend to weather away over time and will need to be re-coated periodically to maintain their protective qualities.

The gray, sunburned area on the top of the log shown in the picture is a result of prolonged, direct sunlight. This can be prevented in new construction by extending the eaves and overhangs to allow for more protection from the sun. Also, avoid using clear finishes alone because they provide less UV protection from the sun. You could also plant shade trees to help deflect the direct sunlight.

If your logs are sunburned you can typically get by with sanding down the sunburned areas with 60-80 grit and then reapplying your finish. You will need to reapply the same number of coats as the rest of the wall to match the color of the rest of the wall. Tip: When you are reapplying the finish to match the rest of the wall it is better to apply too much and make the sanded areas look darker then to not add enough so they look lighter. The darker areas will tend to look natural where lighter areas will stick out and look distinctively unnatural.

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

 

 

 

Backer Rod and Chinking Log Homes

Backer Rod and Chinking Part 2

Chinking a log home is not a difficult process. Once you get over the awkwardness of learning how to "gun the product" onto the logs and then get the "feel" of tooling the product you will pick up speed and find satisfaction in having a part in finishing your home. This article covers the basics of how to chink a log home, but before starting your project in earnest, request and read a Data Tech that goes into greater detail.

Proper Joint Design Last month’s article briefly touched on the reason why backer rod is needed—to serve as a bond breaker. The following illustrations graphically depict why 2-point adhesion is so important for the performance of any chinking or caulking product. Synthetic chinking is formulated to be flexible, but as the drawings demonstrate it can fully flex to absorb log movement only if a bond breaker is installed down the center of the joint.

      

 

 

Surface Preparation For chinking to establish good adhesion to the logs, they must be clean—free of dirt, pollen, uncured oils, sawdust, and other loose materials. The surface temperature of the logs should be between 40°-90° Fahrenheit. The liquids in the chinking "wet out the surface" of the logs so that the chinking can establish good adhesion. If the log surface is colder than 40° the wood pores tighten up not allowing for proper wetting out of the surface. Conversely, when the wood temperature is higher than 90°, the liquids evaporate off too quickly, adversely affecting adhesion.

Most people like contrast in color between their chinking and their stain; therefore, staining prior to chinking is necessary to achieve this look. It is also easier to tool chinking if it is applied to a stained surface, but you must be certain that the stain and chinking are compatible, and that the stain has had sufficient cure time.

Many stains on the market contain waxes and stearates that can interfere with adhesion of chinking and caulking. Usually, companies that manufacture both chinking and stains make certain that their products are compatible, and attempt to enhance their stains for even better adhesion of their chinking and caulking products. If your chinking and stain are manufactured by 2 different companies, call and ask if testing has been done for compatibility and request a copy of their test results.

Application Chinking is packaged in 5-gallon pails and quart tubes, although for larger jobs, 5-gallon pails are more economical. When using 5-gallon pails there are a number of application methods that can be used. You can use a trowel, grout bag, bulk loading gun, or a commercial pumping system that pumps out the chinking material in a continuous flow, making it easier to apply.

There are a variety of different sized nozzles available in both round and slot styles. For smaller beads, a round style nozzle works well but for wider joints the slot style nozzles are the only way to go. In selecting your nozzle size be aware that the depth of the bead of caulk should be half the size of the width of the joint, but never thinner than a 1/4" or thicker than 1/2"; i.e., for a joint 1" wide the bead depth should be 3/8" to 1/2".

Apply the chinking material down the center of the joint, over the backer rod and overlapping slightly onto the surface of both logs. Only apply enough product down the length of the log that you can reasonably tool before it starts to skin over. As you become accustomed to tooling you will be able to run longer beads.

Tooling There are as many tooling implements out there as there are chinkers! I prefer the polyethylene foam brushes available in any hardware store or lumber yard but I have seen folks tool with rubber spatulas, paint brushes, putty knives, trowels, and even metal spatulas cut down with wire cutters to the desired width. The secret is finding the tool that works best for you. You will also need a pail of clean water, a sponge, and a spray bottle filled with clean water. To speed up the tooling process, have several foam brushes on hand. As soon as one picks up too much chinking and starts to drag instead of gliding over the surface, throw it into the water pail and continue on with a clean brush. A mixture of 1 part denatured alcohol to 2 parts water can be used for misting chinking when the temperature is over 70°. If you are working in the sun and the chinking is skinning over too quickly, straight alcohol can be used. When the temperature is lower than 70° the alcohol is not necessary.

Using a damp polyethylene foam brush, holding the foam portion parallel to the bead, gently press the bead into place. You don't want to drag the foam brush down the bead but instead, section by section press the foam brush against the bead. The next step is the actual tooling. Using the spray bottle, lightly mist the chinking with water to allow the brush to glide over the surface. Do not apply too much water, or the latex in the chinking will run down the logs. If this happens, just wipe off with a damp sponge or rag. The idea is to smooth out the ripples caused by gunning, but most importantly, to feather the bead out onto the top and bottom logs at least 1/4" so that the chinking is tooled tightly to the log surfaces.

Clean-up and Disposal To properly dispose of unused chinking material, it is good practice to understand and follow all of your state and local regulations on clean-up and disposal. Do not dispose of chinking material in drinking water supplies. However, for easy clean-up water may be used for cleaning hands, surfaces and equipment. Toxic solvents are not required for chinking material clean-up.

Warning! As you finish your chinking and stand back to admire your work . . . ugh! Blisters! Blisters are a phenomenon commonly found after applying chinking. They form when moisture from the chinking accumulates in voids beneath the bead and the heat from the sun causes the blister to appear as "bubble" in the chinking. To avoid these blisters, use a white tarp to shield freshly chinked walls from the sun. If this is not possible, keep a close eye on the chinked wall for the first 24-48 hours. If a blister pops up, just puncture a hole in the middle of it and gently push the chinking back into place. Then after 3-5 days you can repair the blister by applying a small portion of chinking material into the hole.

Cure Time After the chinking process is completed, allow it to cure for one week if you will be painting over it with oil or latex paints, total cure-through is 28 days. Just one last suggestion that I picked up from a professional chinker: Hang a small board with several beads of the chinking in a conspicuous area with a sign inviting people to satisfy their need to touch. Hopefully, this will keep them from satisfying their curiosity on the chinking courses of your home!

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744

www.loghelp.com 

 

Backer Rod for Log Home Chinking

 

Backer Rod and Chinking Part 1 & 2

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Part 1

As the warm weather begins, its the time of year when we start thinking about chinking our log homes. The first step of caulking or chinking is applying Backer Rod. The *Log Core will take you through a two part series of Backer Rod and Chinking. We will begin this series with backer rod of all types.

Backer Rod is a synthetic foam that comes in a variety of shapes and sizes from 1/4" up to 5". The reason why Backer Rod needs to be placed in joints is that it acts as a bond breaker, which provides a surface that chinking won't adhere to. Eventually, the chinking will free itself from the backer and will move with the logs as they expand or shrink. Backer Rod also serves by adding an insulation value and reduces the amount of material needed.

Grip Strip backer rod provides an excellent fit with a flat working surface and is a closed cell product that repels water. As a chinking applicator for a restoration company for 7 years in Northern Minnesota, I have found this material is the easiest and quickest to use. No tools are necessary and it follows with the curvature of the logs. This product really grips to the logs and stays in place.

SOF Rod can be described as an open cell, extruded polyethylene foam. SOF Rod is extruded to leave an impermeable shell to prevent moisture from entering the side. Advantages of this backer are that it is very flexible and is easy to install. Smaller sizes are offered to fit those really tight joints. When choosing a size, the diameter should be approximately 25% larger than the joint because of the compressibility. Precautions to take are not to puncture or stretch during application. This may cause out gassing. In smaller joints a blunt tool may be needed to push backer further into the joint to allow the required amount of chinking. This material is easier to work with for smaller size joints.

Closed Cell backer rod is a closed cell polyethylene round foam that also runs in a continuous length. Compared to the SOF Rod this backer is firm, but just as easy to install. Again a blunt tool may be needed to push backer deeper into the joint to allow the required amount of chinking.

Open Cell Backer Rod is easy to work with also. It is soft and compresses to fit most size joints. This product is breathable which allows for a faster cure, but recommended in the interior. This is because it will absorb water. If used on the exterior, only put in the amount of open cell that you think will get done in one day so the exposed backer will not draw in moisture. Note: the use of a blunt tool when installing backer rod to the exterior logs will prevent punctures to the surface of the rod and minimize chink blistering caused by trapped water vaporizing under direct heat from exposure to the sun.

For smaller joints where backer rod can not fit, but yet there may be a gap, a mylar tape or strapping tape may be used. This too will serve as a bond-breaker to allow the material to release itself from the tape and move with logs as they settle and shrink. If applying chinking over old mortar, a bond-breaker tape should be applied as well. Packing tape or duct tape are two examples that will work for this situation.

If the backer seems to keep popping out, a smaller backer or a different style of backer is needed. You should never have to nail Backer Rod to keep in place. The most common mistake about choosing Backer Rod is selecting a backer that is too big for the joint. When this happens, the backer keeps coming out or you are left with a chinked joint that is larger than it needs to be. I recommend to take advantage of the samples we have to try different styles and sizes. Keep in mind that you may require a number of different styles and sizes for your particular project.

*Backer Rod and Chinking Part 1 (courtesy of Denise Carlson, Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.)

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744

www.loghelp.com 

 

How to Use a Follow Plate

How to Use a Follow Plate

Remove front cap of caulk gun and wet the end of gun with water or release agent (50% water and 50% denatured alcohol). Spray or pull water into the gun chamber to lubricate the interior.

 

1. Seat the follow plate firmly on the surface of caulk or chinking.
2. Attach the caulk gun to the follow plate and lock the push rod.
3. Pull up slowly to draw the caulk or chinking up inside the barrel until filled.

 Albion & Cox Follow Plates are available.

 

Albion Follow Plate

With your gun screwed on, the Follow Plate allows for easy pressure-feed filling and refilling of caulk or chinking from 5-gallon pails. For straight or tapered  pails. (Conceal, Log Builder, and Log Jam are tapered as of March 1st, 2015). Works with Albion and Newborn bulk loading guns. Made of sheet metal.

 

 

 

Albion Slip On Follow Plate

Quick Push-On, Pull-Off Seal Feature. No Threading Required!

• For 3 & 5 Gallon Pails (Minimum ID 9-7/8” - Maximum ID 11-3/8”).
• Fits all 2” diameter B-Line Bulk and Sausage Guns (models B12Bxx, B26Bxx, B12Sxx, B18Sxx, etc.) and Pro Professional Line (DL-45, DL-59, etc) Bulk Guns. (Sold Separately.)
• Includes a pull rod for easy removal of Follow Plate from pail.
• Steel plates sandwich a nitrile gasket that scrapes the inside of 3 or 5-gallon pail clean.
• Designed to minimize clean up, material waste, and exposure to air.
• Keeps gun barrel clean and prevents air from entering gun barrel during loading.

Cox Follow Plate

The Cox Follow Plate works with Albion, Cox, and Newborn bulk loading caulk guns. It is designed to work with both straight and tapered 5 gallon pails. The rubber gasket edge seal makes for exceptional ease of use. Pull rod included. See How to Use a Follow Plate.  

 

 

 

 

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744

www.loghelp.com 

 

Perma-Chink Directions for Use

STEP #1: INSPECTION

If applying to an older home, check for signs of rot and decay. Remove and replace or repair deteriorated wood. Contact any Perma-Chink Systems office for information about wood repairs.
 

STEP #2: SURFACE PREPARATION

All surfaces should be clean, dry and free from oil, dirt or other foreign matter. Use appropriate materials to clean and prepare surfaces. Perma-Chink Log Home Sealant is best applied after the home has been stained. We strongly recommend the use of any LIFELINE™ brand exterior stain and topcoat. If an oil-based stain has been applied, allow it to dry at least two weeks before applying Perma-Chink Log Home Sealant.
 

STEP #3: BACKING MATERIALS

Perma-Chink Log Home Sealant should only be applied over approved substrates. When selecting the width of Grip Strip to use on round logs, the joint width should be approximately 1/6 the diameter of the logs (10” diameter logs; 10” ÷ 6 = 1.67”). Obtain a copy of our “Log Home Sealant Application Guide” from any Perma-Chink Systems location for information about suitable backing materials and substrates.
 

STEP #4: APPLICATION

Do not apply in direct sunlight or when the temperature is less than 40° F. Perma-Chink Log Home Sealant may be applied with a bulk loading caulk gun, grout bag or high volume chink pump. Hold the applicator tip firmly against the back surface and apply. If several beads of chinking are required to fill a gap, place them close together to avoid entrapped air. Apply enough sealant to maintain a wet thickness of
at least 5/16” and no more than ½” across the entire joint after tooling. Only apply as much sealant as you can tool in about 15 minutes. Once the joint is filled, spray with a light mist of water and tool smooth with a trowel or spatula. If the width of the trowel is close to the width of the joint, the smoothing process will be easier. Make sure there is good contact between the Perma-Chink and the exposed edges of the top and bottom logs. If you are a first time applicator, start work on a less visible area until you become familiar with the process.
 

STEP #5: DRYING AND CURING TIME

Protect freshly applied Perma-Chink from direct rainfall for a minimum of 24 hours. When draping a wall with plastic film, allow some airspace between the wall and the plastic to facilitate drying. Sheets of cardboard may also be use to cover newly applied Perma-Chink to prevent “chinking inspectors” from leaving finger dents in the uncured chinking. Drying time and curing time are two entirely different terms. In warm or hot weather, Perma-Chink will begin to skin over in as little as ten minutes while a complete cure may take three to four weeks. Cooler weather will slow both the drying time and curing process.
 

STEP #6: CLEANUP

Clean area and equipment immediately with warm, soapy water before the Perma-Chink dries. For removing Perma-Chink that has dried, soften with alcohol and then clean with warm water. Please do not pollute our environment. Dispose of containers and unused material in accordance with local, state, and federal regulations.
 

STEP #7: MAINTENANCE

Periodic cleaning with an appropriate cleaner such as Log Wash™ will clean off dust and dirt and accentuate the beauty of your home. We recommend that log walls be washed down at least twice a year. Small rips and tears may be repaired using a bead of Perma-Chink and a damp short bristled brush to blend it in with the surrounding area. Tears greater than one foot long should be cut out and the chinking replaced.
 

STEP #8: STORAGE

Store Perma-Chink out of direct sunlight and protect from freezing. Although Perma-Chink is freeze-thaw stable, if the product is accidentally frozen, allow to thaw, mix well and check for suitability of use before applying. Request a copy of our “Log Home Sealant Application Guide” from any Perma-Chink Systems office for additional information about applying and maintaining Perma-Chink Log Home Sealant.

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744

www.loghelp.com 

Onyx: Sansin 2024 Color of the Year

Sansin SDF Onyx - project by Northland Blasting and Log Restoration

 Sansin has announced Onyx as their 2024 color of the year. In deciding, they conducted an
analysis of some of the unique projects and photos. Onyx performs beautifully on a variety of wood substrates and is demonstrated in a number of Sansin’s exterior formulations including Classic, SDF, Dec, and ENS. Onyx is a confident, courageous color and pairs well with many unique Sansin colors such as Aztec, Chesapeake, and Primary Yellow. Even the deep charcoal color of Onyx doesn’t sacrifice what we all love most about building with wood – the character. Onyx highlights the wood grain while protecting the wood from UV and water damage.

Available online or local pickup in our store:

 www.loghelp.com

Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

Capture Log Stain by Sashco

 

Capture Log Stain by Sashco is a log finish that is extremely effective and attractive semi-transparent stain that is followed by a weather repellent topcoat, Cascade. Capture Log Stain and Cascade work together. Both are freeze-thaw stable in their containers through at least 5 freeze-thaw cycles (freezing in the container, rethawing, then freezing again, etc.) Modest sheen gives "depth" to the appearance of logs (when used in conjunction with the Cascade clear topcoat). Capture Log Stain’s unique elastic formula allows it to move freely as your logs move, instead of cracking and peeling. Two heavy coats of Capture Log Stain are now recommended, especially for Autumn Aspen, Bronze Pine, Natural, Wheat, and other light colors. Capture also works well by itself as a one coat interior stain or can be top-coated with Symphony. Capture Log Stain and Cascade are compatible with other Sashco products like PeneTreat (Tim-bor), Conceal, Log Builder Caulking, and Log Jam Chinking. Made in the USA. 

Application Instructions 

1. Compatibility counts: If you are changing from one stain product to another, contact us first. Any product already on the wood that contains waxes, non-drying oils, or silicones can interfere with the adhesion of Capture® Log Stain, just like they interfere with the adhesion of chinking, sealants, and caulks. In these cases, Sashco’s Transformation Stain® Log & Timber will be the better choice. 

2. Clean the surface: Media blast, power wash, or sand wood surfaces using an Osborn ® * brush or 60-80 grit sand paper to remove failing stains, UV-damaged or unsound wood fibers, mill glaze, and other surface contaminants. This creates the best surface for stain adhesion and longevity. If mildew is present, apply Sashco’s CPR ® in the brightener strength according to the directions, or apply fresh bleach in a 4 parts water to 1 part bleach solution. Allow to sit no longer than 20 minutes, then thoroughly rinse to neutralize the cleaner and prevent degradation of the wood fibers. 

3. Remove fuzz: For the best appearance, remove felting (wood fuzz) with Osborn ® brushes, Sashco’s Buffy Pad system, or 60-80 grit sand paper once the wood is dry. Be sure to remove all sawdust once done. 

4. Timing matters: UV rays from the sun can damage cleaned wood surfaces in as little as 1 week, resulting in premature failure. Sun damaged wood turns yellow and eventually gray, so if you sand a piece of yellowish wood and it turns whiter, you know that wood has some sun damage; therefore, stain should be applied no more than 2 weeks after wood prep is complete. 

5. Apply Sashco’s Penetreat ® : For additional protection against rot and wood-ingesting insects, apply Penetreat® according to instructions. Allow the wood to dry a minimum of 2-4 days. (Use a moisture meter to check it!) 

6. Air and surface temperatures matter: To allow Capture® Log Stain to dry and adhere properly to the wood, apply the product when the forecast is predicting clear, rain-free and snow-free weather, with air and wood surface temperatures of 40° - 90°F (4° - 32°C) both during application and for the rest of the day after it has been applied. (This includes overnight temps!) If rain can’t be avoided, protect stained surfaces from direct rainfall for 1-2 days after application. Use a surface thermometer to check surface temps. 

7. Wood must be dry: Using a moisture meter, check the wood to make sure it’s at or below a 19% moisture content level before staining. Anything higher increases the risk of rot and/or peeling stain. 

8. Control surface mildew: To further enhance protection from mildew growth on the surface of the stain, and give added protection from mildew between maintenance coats of Cascade® , add in Stay Clean I/E® mildewcide to each pail of stain. 

9. Mix it up properly: Using a squirrel cage type mixer, thoroughly mix the stain, being sure to scrape all pigments off the bottom of the pail. Pails with different lot numbers should be blended together to ensure consistent color. Stir the stain every 10-15 minutes throughout application. 

10. Spray it on and back brush it in: Using a Graco ® 313 or 515 sprayer tip (or equivalent in a different brand), drench apply the first coat of Capture® Log Stain. Best long-term performance is achieved when the first coat is applied to the point of refusal (meaning the wood won’t accept any more stain). Follow behind immediately with vigorous back brushing using large 5-6 in. deck and siding paint brushes on 3-4 ft. long poles. This forces the stain into the pores of the wood and promotes penetration and adhesion. 

11. Spray it on again: Allow the first coat to completely dry (4-12 hours, depending on temperature and humidity), then apply a 2nd, lighter coat and brush out any runs. 

12. Seal it up: Spray on one heavy coat of Cascade® Clear Coat, brushing out any runs. Capture® Log Stain must be top coated with Cascade® for water-resistance and added UV protection.

 

Grand Rapids, Minnesota. Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

Contractor Training with Sashco

On February 15 we hosted our third annual Demo Day with Sashco’s Grizzly Bob. This has been a recurring opportunity for contractors to spend a day continuing their education on log care. In addition to giving product demos and instruction on how to use Sashco’s log finishing products, Bob also shared his wealth of knowledge on proper log home finishing and restoration practices. We are fully stocked with Sashco’s log products line and appreciate the partnership of education and experience Bob brings to share with our area contractors. For more extensive training, Sashco offers the Zero Failures training at their headquarters in Colorado. Interested contractors can contact us for more information on dates and sponsorship opportunity.

Questions on continuing your contractor education? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744

www.loghelp.com

 

Wood Finish & Treatment Decisions For Lasting Log Home Protection

 By Sjoerd Bos, Managing Director at Sansin  

Whether you currently own a log home or are purchasing or building one, you no doubt appreciate the enduring beauty of wood and the log home aesthetic. To protect your investment and ensure your home stands the test of time, you will want to protect it from dirt, moisture, UV exposure and other handling damage. This means wood treatment and finishing are critical decisions. Rather than choosing a coating that creates a non-breathable, waxy film on top of the wood, there are water-borne finish options that deeply penetrate into the logs, allowing water to evaporate and preventing moisture from getting trapped and rotting the logs from within. 

For more than 30 years, the Sansin Corporation has been exclusively dedicated to the development of enviro-friendly, water-borne wood finish technologies that make wood beautiful, durable and easy-to- maintain. Sansin’s wood coatings utilize a unique water-borne alkyd formula that combines the benefits of both oil- and water-based coatings but in a formula with much lower VOC (volatile organic compounds) levels. Additionally, rather than using toxic dyes in the colorant system, Sansin utilizes nano technology to create pure pigments ground so fine that they deliver remarkably vibrant, uniform and long-lasting color. Because the finishes don’t form a film on top of the wood, the coatings won’t crack, chip or peel. Water-borne finishes also dry faster, allowing additional coats to be applied in one day rather than waiting a day or two between coats. When properly applied, the coatings offer superior UV protection and lasting durability that enables log home owners to extend the time between maintenance coats.

Sansin SDF is the company’s most versatile exterior finish and, in addition to log home restoration projects, works well on decks, docks, siding and fences. SDF’s specially-formulated oils and resins penetrate into the wood, creating a monolithic bond for outstanding weather and UV protection that won’t crack, peel or blister. SDF can be used on horizontal and vertical wood surfaces and is available in a wide range of natural, semi-transparent and even solid colors. Because SDF is designed to be highly water-repellent, it’s a natural choice for log homes in moisture-rich environments. SDF Topcoat offers additional durability and superior water repellency using a semi-film forming finish. SDF Topcoat is great for surfaces where water splash-back causes discoloration due to moisture intrusion or frequent wetting.When it comes to protecting wood during construction, Sansin Foundation, a nearly invisible penetrating base coat, is simply the best way to protect logs from damage during construction. Just give the wood a light cleaning, and then you can also use it as a base coat for Classic or SDF, creating those lighter, more natural tones but with built-in UV protection. Foundation penetrates into the wood, creating dimensional stability while reducing checks and wood movement. It is available in three tones that complement the wood species of fir, cedar and lightwood.

 Look no further than Sansin Timber-Tec for your in-yard protection. Timber-Tec is an industrial grade product that protects from UV degradation, blue stain and repels water (helping wood dry), and it also mitigates wood discoloration during the construction process. Timber-Tec can be applied to green or seasoned logs, improving dimensional stability and allowing wood to adjust gradually to moisture levels in the environment. It comes in in two formula options. M-30 provides the natural light color of fresh pine while C-20 is a clear concentrate that provides a light honey color to the wood after it dries.