Showing posts with label log home tools and products. Show all posts
Showing posts with label log home tools and products. Show all posts

Tuesday, June 3, 2025

Mold and Mildew

Technical Tip from Perma-Chink Systems, Inc

Mold and mildew are terms that are used interchangeably since they refer to the same living organisms. For simplicity we'll refer to them as molds. Molds encompass a wide range of fungal species that can live on the surface most materials, including wood. They require air, water and food. Their color is usually white or black but can be just about any color. If the growth is green, it's probably algae.

The molds that concern us live on wood fibers or even on finished surfaces. Bare green wood is very susceptible to mold growth since the high moisture content provides lots of available water and the wood's nutrients are readily available as food. Many types of mold grow on green wood. They vary from black spots to white tendrils (commonly called dog hair). All mold growth MUST be removed before any of our LIFELINE finishes are applied. While common household bleach has traditionally been used to remove mold it should never be used on bare wood surfaces. mold and prevent their reappearance underneath our finishes without having to use caustic wood damaging chemicals like chlorine bleach. Wood cleaning products like Wood ReNew and Log Wash usually do an excellent job when used correctly.

All of our exterior stains and topcoats contain mildewcides that help prevent the growth of mold on the surface of the finish. They do not prevent the growth of mold on the substrate under the finish. That's why it's so important to thoroughly clean the surface prior to applying the first coat of stain or primer. Mold spots forming under a finish is an indication that the surface was not properly cleaned during preparation. The only way to remove them is to strip the finish down to bare wood to get at the mold.

Occasionally shaded, warm, moist environments can create conditions so conducive to mold growth that they can overcome the mildewcide additives contained in the finish. One way to handle this type of situation is to thoroughly clean the walls with Log Wash and then apply a coat of Advance Clear Topcoat mixed with Stay-Clean additive. Just be aware that the addition of Stay Clean will diminish the glossiness of Advance Gloss.

A final thought about maintenance of exterior finishes. An occasional wash with Log Wash will help keep the surface clean and mold free. If needed, a maintenance coat of LIFELINE Advance will renew the water repellants, UV inhibitors and the mildewcides. Cleaning and maintaining your exterior finish will protect the wood and maintain the appearance of your home, including keeping it free of mold.

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

Thursday, May 29, 2025

Applying Borate Solutions

Technical Tip by Perma-Chink Systems, Inc

Applying Borate Solutions

What is the best way is to apply Shell-Guard RTU, diluted Shell-Guard Concentrate and/or solutions of Armor-Guard? Without a doubt the easiest and most effective way to apply any of these products is with a simple compressed air sprayer, a fancy way of referring to an inexpensive pump-up garden sprayer available at most Do-It-Yourself outlets for less than $20.00. Of course there are some available for a lot more money but they are really not needed for applying borate solutions. A basic pump-up garden sprayer works just fine.
 

What about using an airless sprayer? Airless sprayers put out a fine liquid mist. The droplet size is quite small and is easily carried away with even a slight breeze. In addition, the high surface area of the small droplets allows the water contained in the solution to rapidly evaporate leaving behind a high concentration of borate and mixed glycols. Rather than penetrate into the wood this combination forms a sticky film on the surface of the wood that takes a long time to dry. Not only does this negate the benefit imparted by a borate treatment but unless the sticky film is thoroughly washed off it will interfere with the adhesion of the finish. This can happen even if Shell-Guard RTU is applied with an airless sprayer. With solutions of Armor-Guard the loss of water results in a white coating of borate powder on the surface rather than penetrating into the wood and the white powder will show through our transparent finishes. In other words, don't use an airless sprayer for applying any of our borate preservatives.

For small jobs it's better to use a hand sprayer or a plant mister to apply borate solutions than it is to try and brush them on. Since the viscosity of the solutions is about the same as water it's just about impossible to apply any of them with a brush and not have them run down the wall.

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

Thursday, May 22, 2025

Best log home finish- Oil vs Water

Which finish is better for your log or wood home-- oil-based or water-based? We don’t like to pick a side, because the best choice can vary by situation and there are high-performance brands with each. Each category of wood finish has its advantages and disadvantages, and even those differences can vary between brands and formulas.

Deep-penetrating oils are often a preferred choice for high-moisture regions that need the most breathable finish on the wood. Deep-penetrating oils are great for decks and horizontal surfaces because they won’t peel and are easy to maintain. Shallow-penetrating finishes, which can be oil-based or hybrid oil-waterborne formulas, generally are more compatible with caulk and chinking sealants than penetrating oils and they are generally more forgiving to maintain than surface stains. Surface stains are water-based and typically offer the best durability but also require the most meticulous of preparation and maintenance.

No matter what finish you choose for your project, preparation of the surface and proper conditions during application are the biggest factors in achieve the best performance of your log home or wood stain.

For your convenience, we offer a calculator that allows you to determine an estimated amount of staining you need for your home. Our team is also available to answer your questions and guide you through the staining process. Contact us today and we’ll be happy to answer any questions you may have about choosing a finish that is right for your situation.

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

Monday, May 5, 2025

Log Builder Caulking - NEW Now Available in Clear!

In addition to the popular colors Tan, Woodtone and Dark Brown, Log Builder Caulking is now available in Clear. It’s the same excellent elasticity and ease of application you’ve grown to love, now in CLEAR. Great for sealing tongue and groove pine while staying undetectable. Also stainable to help blend in with…well, whatever color is there. Available in 10.5 oz. and 30 oz. cartridges, as well as 5 gallon pails.
 

 Log Builder Caulking by Sashco is a log home caulking sealant with a limited lifetime warranty. Sashco Log Builder Caulking is designed to meet the demanding sealant needs log homes and is compatible with most construction materials. Sashco Log Builder Caulking is water resistant in 1-4 hours. Sashco Log Builder caulking has superior water resistance. Plus excellent resistance to UV rays. Sashco Log Builder Caulking develops powerful adhesion, remains a rubbery sealant for many years. Not only does Log Builder caulking have powerful adhesion to sound wood - it sticks to a lot more. Granted, you want your sealant to have superior adhesion to all species of wood, but Sashco Log Builder caulking adheres to a variety of surfaces. After all, your log home doesn't just consist of wood. What about windows, doors, and baseboards made of a different material? Sashco Log Builder caulking sticks to most building materials including glass, plastics, and metals. So you can seal around those windows, doors and baseboards effectively. And you can fill checks and cracks since Log Builder caulking adheres to most log home stains and finishes too. Sashco Log Builder caulking has water-based chemistry that is environmentally friendly. All Sashco caulking including Log Builder Caulking is recommended for use with Backer Rod when used with logs. Made in the USA. Log Builder Caulking - How Well Does it Stick? Application Temperature: 40-90° F (log surface temp.) Cleanup: Soap and water. Log Builder Caulking Data | SDS

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

Tuesday, April 15, 2025

Transformation Log & Timber Faster Dry Formula and New Colors


New from Sashco:

Jim the Stain Guy (aka the Senior Chemist in charge of stains) put several years of work into this improved Transformation Log & Timber formula to speed up the dry time so that the second coat can now be applied the next day, rather than waiting 24-48 hours. Two separate field tests with product applied to 18 different homes and in a variety of weather and humidity conditions confirm this. Those field testers and Sashco are confident that this new formula will improve jobsite turn times and reduce labor costs.
Updated formula pails have a green sticker on them.

 

 

 

 

Transformation Log & Timber New Colors:

 Brown Tone Gray

Finally! A gray for Transformation. Beautiful antiqued look, wonderfully modern protection. 

Brown Tone Neutral

Free of yellow and red undertones, but still with the Transformation Log & Timber gorgeous gloss and
transparency.

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 


Friday, March 28, 2025

The Great Lakes Jack

We are excited to introduce the Great Lakes Jack.The Great Lakes Jack was jointly designed by members of the Great Lakes Log Crafters Association, along with Aeshe Engineering. The Great Lakes Jack has a 1” threaded rod mounted to a 3/8” steel plate with a nut acting as the height adjuster, and another 3/8” steel plate welded on top of the nut. The bottom plate of the screw jack is anchored to the foundation through two 1/2" holes. The top plate is anchored to the bottom of the vertical log post with four 3/8" structural screws. The threaded rod passes through a hole in the center of the top plate as shown and into a pre-drilled recess in the log. Unlike other settling jack designs, the nut is welded to the top plate of the Great Lakes Jack. This aids in resisting uplift, but as such it's necessary to remove the anchor screws from the upper plate while vertical adjustments are made. Corrosion resistant coating should be applied before installation. Allowable net uplift is 900LBS, and Vertical downward force is tested to 20,000LBS.

A portion of proceeds from this jack go to the Great Lakes Log Crafters Association and help to fund their education and promotion of excellence in handcrafted log building. The Great Lakes Log Crafters Association meets annually for education, demonstration, and camaraderie of all things related to log craft. In 2025, the conference will be meeting April 25-26 at Gateway Lodge in Land O’ Lakes Wisconsin. Some of the many topics presented will be Net Zero Log Home: Purdue University Ross Reserve; Stihl Chainsaw and Milwaukee Tool Demonstrations; Wood Treating With Lake Country Log and Cedar; Wisconsin Building Codes; and Robotic Solutions, Inc- Software for log and timber manufacturing demonstration. Registration is open to all members and non-members who are interested in learning more about all aspects in the craft of log construction.

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

Thursday, August 22, 2024

Log Home Caulking, Chinking, & Sealing FAQs

 Can I stain before caulking or chinking?

When applying water-based caulk and chinking like Conceal, Energy Seal, Log Builder caulking, Log Jam chinking, or Perma-Chink, and using a water based stain, it may be applied before of after staining. If using oil-based finishes like NatureColor Base or Recoater, Woodguard, or WR-5:
1. Apply caulk or chinking over one coat, and then apply a second coat of finish the following year.
2. Wait at least 21 days after staining before caulking or chinking to allow for cure time. (Paraffinic oils like in X-100 can cause adhesion failures.)

Do I need backer rod?

Yes, if chink joints are greater than 1/4". See Backer Rod and Chinking.

What does the temperature need to be to apply caulk or chinking?

See "Surface Preparation".

What can I use to smooth out my caulking or chinking?

People use various kinds of "tooling" devices. The most popular would probably be a spatula of some sort at the desired width. Some people use a cake spatula if an industrial one is not available. Butter knives, rubber spatulas, and foam brushes have also been used.

How do I prevent blisters from forming in log home caulk and chinking?

Click here for details.

I have flat on flat logs, what do I put between them?

There are a couple of alternatives to put in between logs for a flat on flat system:

1. The first is to lay a bead of adhesive caulking on each side of the log; see Conceal or Woodsman Caulking.
2. The other alternative is a product called LogSeal. Some of the features of LogSeal are sealing against water, cold, heat, light and noise. LogSeal has adhesive on one side with an easy-release protective liner, providing fast and easy placement during construction. LogSeal provides easy application for flat on flat and saddle notch systems. When using for flat on flat construction, lay one line of LogSeal on the outer edge and one line on the inner edge.

Do I need to caulk after using LogSeal?

Yes. It is always important to seal the exterior side with log home caulk or chinking to keep moisture (in the form of rain or splash-back) out from the log joints. The log caulking also helps to keep insects from working their way in.

Should I buy a 5-gallon pail or tubes?

Economically, it is better to buy a 5-gallon pail; however you don't start saving money until you purchase two 5-gallon pails because of the cost of tools for pail application. A 5-gallon pail is equivalent to twenty-two 29 oz. tubes. It will also depend on what the you feel comfortable with, caulking tubes or a bulk loading gun.

If I buy a 5-gallon pail, how do I get it into my caulk gun?

By using a Follow Plate.

How do I clean and take care of my Albion bulk loading gun?

See "Care of Albion Bulk Loading Guns".

How to Prevent Blisters in Caulk and Chinking

Occasionally, blistering of a chinked or caulked surface occurs. A chinked area is more susceptible to blistering due to the larger joint size. After several years of investigation, Sashco Sealants has uncovered most or all of the causes* of this problem and can recommend ways to prevent it.* At first it was thought that the chinking itself was to blame. But the facts do not support this. For example:

  •  The same batch of product has blistered on one log and not on another.
  •  It is common to find blisters on one side of a house and not the other.
  •  Blisters occur above a certain point on a wall and not below it.
  •  Some blisters appear to be random on a chinking line and others are in a straight row.
  •  Blisters often reappear in the same place when repaired with the same batch of chinking or even with a different batch.

The Causes are Site related and not product or batch related.

Causes of Blisters: The basic cause of any blister is a build-up of gas between the log, the backing surface, and the chinking or caulking. It occurs during The early curing stages when The chinking is soft but has a skin formed on the surface. Heat usually in the form of direct sunlight causes the gas to expand. As the gas expands, it pushes the chinking out, causing a "bubble" or blister. This gas comes from water, wood sap, or even backing material.

What Circumstances Create the Gas? Trapped Water Vapor. As chinking and caulking dries, it gives off water vapor. Any physical condition which traps the resulting water vapor could cause a blister, especially if the logs and chinking are heated by direct sunlight here are some things that could trap this vapor.

  • Cracks or indentations in foam or polyethylene backer rod which doesn't go all the way through. Even tiny spaces can trap enough vapor to create a blister big enough to see.
  • Air bubble trapped during the application process against non-porous backer material.
  • Dead-end crack in wood where moisture vapor can accumulate and expand when heated. (This, most likely, is the most wide-spread cause.)

Note Manus-Bond Caulking is not affected by water vapor in the same as other caulking or chinking because it is a polyurethane. Moisture makes it set up faster and will not generally cause blistering.

.

blisters forming

blisters on day 1 and day 2

Backing Material Backer rod out-gassing. Closed cell backer rod has a puncture and is squeezed by expanding logs. The gas used to make the rod forces a blister in the chinking and caulking.

On Day 1 the backer rod and sealant are applied in the cool part of the day. On Day 2 the sun comes out and heats the logs. This causes the backer rod to be squeezed, and forces a small amount of gas in the backer rod to leave the rod at a rupture or weak spot and make a blister in the sealant. The phenomenon has been known to occur in the caulk and sealant industry for many years and occurs randomly and unpredictably.

Backer Rod Blister

Blister from Pitch PocketPitch Pockets Logs often have what is termed "pitch pockets." These are areas of concentrated pitch, or sap, sometimes containing several gallons! (Pitch pockets of 50 or more gallons are known!) This sap (or its vapor) will follow cracks in logs, coming out of the log almost anywhere. It especially exits at the knots Where the sap flow was directed during the life of the tree. Sap has a volatile component and, when heated, forms a gas that causes blisters. Some blisters appear to be in the dead center of the chinking/ caulking. Upon close investigation, however, most or all of the bubbles are connected to a crack in the log surface. The blisters are often the result of sap vapor, which can come through the tiniest of holes in the wood. Pitch pockets are often the cause of blisters, which line up in a straight row. They are simply aligned with the crack in the log along which the sap is traveling. In the heat of direct sunlight some of the liquid sap in the pitch pocket turns into a gas that is under pressure and can form a blister as it tries to escape the log.

Prevention of Blisters Some of these causes cannot be controlled. Two factors can be partially controlled - heat and backer rod selection/preparation. Since heat normally is responsible for turning undetected gas into unsightly blisters, it makes sense to control this element as much as possible. Once the chinking and caulking has become firm, it can then resist the low pressure from the water or sap vapor and the blisters can then be prevented.

Control the Heat to Prevent Blisters

Control the Heat:

  • Chink or caulk on the shady, cool side.
  • Protect walls from direct sunlight for a few days by covering with a light colored tarp, cloth or plastic. Leave plenty of room for ventilation. It is important to cover the logs as well as the chinking and caulking so the entire surface will stay cool.
  • Stain logs first. This can help to close some pitch pocket holes before chinking and caulking.
  • Although rare, it is possible for excessive heat to build up inside a log home during the early curing stage and cause blisters. If this could occur, make sure windows and doors are left open to allow cool air to ventilate the interior.

Control the Backing Material:

  • Use blunt tools to install closed cell backing materials, being careful to avoid puncturing or denting.
  • Open cell backer rod** may be used in place of closed cell backer rod. These backer rods will not generate gas and they can help dissipate any gas originating from another source. **The weakness of this type of backer rod is that it is more susceptible to absorbing moisture if the chinking or caulking is ruptured and driving rain is forced through to the backer rod.
  • When chinking and caulking over flat insulation (styrofoam, bead board or foil-faced foam board), surface cracks, holes, or dents should be covered with a high quality sticky mylar tape, 2" wide preferably. (The tape will tend to prevent as much as 80% of the blisters that would otherwise form.) Extruded styrene foam (such as Dow Chemical's blue "Styrofoam") has a greater tendency to cause blisters than white bead board or foil-faced urethane foam.
  • Fixing a BlisterA fresh blister can sometimes be eliminated by puncturing the surface skin (to let the moisture vapor escape) and pushing the chinking and caulking back into place. This step can cause marring of the chinking finish, but can be smoothed out 2-3 days later (after the chinking has firmed up) with a small amount of Log Jam applied and smoothed. Often the blister will not reappear. To be effective, this action must be taken within the first day after application, while the underlying chinking and caulking is still wet This method can be the most effective and efficient since the blisters are caught very early (before they become very large) and repaired quickly.
  • More thoroughly cured blisters must be cut off flush and the cavity filled approximately one-fourth to one-half full and allowed to dry. If the cause of the original blister is still present, then it will push the fresh chinking and caulking out into a shallow blister below the surface of the surrounding chinking/ caulking. This may be allowed to dry and a second application, blending with the surrounding chinking, will complete the repair. (See the drawings.)
  • If you can cover a crack or hole with mylar tape, only one repair step is needed. Chinking and caulking can be installed flush with the surrounding material.

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Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

 

Thursday, August 15, 2024

Applying Sashco Colorfast

Colorfast Pre-Stain Base Coat

 Everyone knows that color is king on a log home stain job, but pleasing the king can be difficult! Wood porosity differences lead to blotchy, uneven results when staining. UV damage causes the wood to yellow your stain or interior clear coat. That once-perfect color is lost. That’s why you need Sashco’s Colorfast. Colorfast strengthens the glue that binds the wood cells together, called lignin, preventing yellowing of the underlying wood cells to help maintain a consistent color year after year. Before staining, Colorfast evens out wood porosity, creating a smoother surface for stain application and preventing over-absorption and a too-dark color. After staining, the lignin stabilizers prevent the wood underneath from getting sunburned, leaving the stain or clear coat applied on top looking the same year after year. It’s color confidence for your log home. Color: Goes on milky white. Dries clear.

Why use Colorfast™?

• Keeps the color the color: Lignin (wood cell glue) stabilizers prevent yellowing and darkening of the wood itself overtime, which in turn prevent color shifts in the stain applied over top. Light colors stay light and darker colors don’t shift too dark.

• Reduces blotchiness: Fills pores for a smoother surface and more even stain application. Great for blasted, rough-sawn, knotty pine, or milled logs.

• Prevents picture-frame effect on interior wood: Apply on bare wood on the interior of the home and under Sashco’s Symphony ® interior clear coat to avoid yellowing around wall décor.

• Use under any Sashco stain: Using oil-based Transformation Log & Timber? Water-based Capture®, Cascade®, or Symphony® ? No problem.

• Easier stain application: Greatly reduces the need to back-
brush the stain applied over top.

• Great as a log keeper coat: Prevents mold and yellowing due to UV damage on new wood as it moves from the mill to the job site and throughout construction. Contains both mildewcide and algaecide to help preserve the wood until it’s time to stain. Or, life happened and you need to wait for a few weeks between prep and staining? No problem.

• Seal those ends: When applied heavily on log ends, prevents over-penetration of stain and log ends that are darker than the rest of the logs. 

Application Instructions

Exterior Application Instructions

Proper substrate preparation and product application mean greater longevity, a better color, and better long-term performance. Read this full Colorfast™ Info Sheet before applying any product and call Sashco at 800-767-5656 with any project-specific questions.


1. Make sure it sticks: If you are changing from one stain product to another, contact us first. Colorfast™ will adhere to almost any surface that is properly prepped. Any product already on the wood, and especially those that contains waxes, non-drying oils, or silicones, will interfere with the adhesion and penetration of Colorfast™ and must be removed before the product is applied.

2. Clean the surface: Media blast, power wash, or sand wood surfaces using an Osborn ® brush or 60 to 80 grit sandpaper to remove all previous stains and loose, unsound gray or yellow wood fibers, along with mill glaze, pollen, and other surface contaminants. This creates the best surface for Colorfast™ penetration and stain longevity. If mold or algae is present, apply Sashco’s CPR ® in the brightener strength according to the directions or apply fresh bleach in a 4 parts water to 1 part bleach solution. Allow it to sit no more than 20 minutes, then thoroughly rinse. If necessary, use a chemical remover. (Follow label instructions carefully and ensure wood is back to neutral pH, checking with pH strips.)

3. Remove fuzz: For best appearance, remove felting (wood fuzz) with Osborn® brushes, Sashco’s Buffy Pad system or 60 to 80 grit sandpaper once the wood is dry. Remove all sawdust with a broom, compressed air, or a leaf blower, or rinse with water.

4. Apply preservatives: Apply Tim-bor ® according to directions for protection against wood rot and wood-ingesting insects BEFORE Colorfast™ is applied. Allow wood to dry 1–3 days, until wood is at or below 19% moisture content level. (Use a moisture meter to check!) 

5. Timing matters: UV rays from the sun can damage the wood you just worked so hard to prep in as little as 1 week; therefore, Colorfast™ should be applied as soon as possible after wood prep is complete. If cold or rainy weather threaten or delay your staining project, you may apply Colorfast™ and wait up to 8 weeks to apply stain. The mildewcide, algaecide, and lignin stabilizers in Colorfast™ will keep your wood protected during that time. (Score!) Be sure to clean off surface contaminants before staining. If any further sanding prep is needed, remember to reapply Colorfast™ to freshly sanded areas before staining for a consistent finish. 

6. Air and surface temperatures matter: Plan to apply Colorfast™ when air and surface temps are between 40°– 90°F (4°– 32°C). Use an infrared thermometer to check surface temps. Temps that are
too hot dry Colorfast™ too quickly, preventing proper penetration. Temps that are too cold will freeze Colorfast™, preventing both proper penetration and proper curing. 

7. Don’t get caught out in the rain: While Colorfast™ can be stained over as soon as it’s dry to the touch (usually in 2 hours or less). Full cure takes longer. A heavy rain could wash off both Colorfast™ and any stains applied over top, requiring extensive prep to remove the mess and reapplication of the product. Avoid rain both on the day of application and for a full 24 hours afterwards. You may also plan to cover surfaces if rain is expected.

8. Wood must be dry: Use a moisture meter to make sure wood is at or below 19% moisture content level before applying Colorfast™. Damp wood can prevent Colorfast™ from penetrating properly and also increases the risk of water stains, rot, and peeling stain. 

9. Mix it up: Thoroughly mix Colorfast™ with a drill-driven, squirrel-cage type mixer. Scrape any settled material off the bottom of the pail and thoroughly mix it in. Stir Colorfast™ every 15–20 minutes throughout application to ensure all ingredients are always mixed in.

10. Spray it on: Using a large (515+) spray tip on an airless sprayer, apply on one heavy coat of  Colorfast™, covering all the wood and inside cracks and checks. If only a brush is used, be sure to drench-apply Colorfast™ to ensure adequate coverage. Don’t skimp. Colorfast™ goes on milky white, but don’t worry: it dries clear.

11. Lightly back-brush: Using a block brush on a pole, lightly brush out Colorfast™ to make sure all the bare wood gets covered, to catch drips, and to coat the insides of every crack and check. Colorfast™ will soak into the wood completely, so don’t worry about foaming. Any areas that remain wet (white) after 10 minutes should be brushed into drier areas.

12. Dry time: Allow Colorfast™ to dry until clear before applying the final stain over it. Often, this is within 2 hours, but check cracks and checks where it may take longer. 13. Apply stain: Once dry, apply two coats of Sashco’s Capture ®, Transformation Log & Timber, or Transformation Siding & Trim. No matter which stain you use, the first coat will go further, will not penetrate as much, will not require vigorous back-brushing, and will be lighter in color than normal. This is OK! It means that Colorfast™ is working as designed. 

* Do not apply Colorfast™ to fiber cement, concrete, or other cementitious materials.

Interior Application Instructions:

Interior prep is not as intense: Surfaces must still be clean and free of contaminants and loose wood fibers, but media blasting and power washing aren’t required except in extraordinary circumstances (like the home was flooded or was in a fire). A general rule of thumb on interior wood is to prep the wood the
way you want it to feel when finished. On the interior, smoother wood is best and usually desired.

Spray it: Apply Colorfast™ the same way you would on exterior wood. Be aware that Colorfast™ will go further on smooth, less porous interior wood.

Stain it: Cover Colorfast™ with 1–2 coats of Sashco’s Symphony ® interior clear coat for easier cleaning, to maintain the original bright wood color, and add a beautiful satin or gloss sheen. Colorfast™ is formulated to prevent interior wood from yellowing. Hooray! If a color is desired, apply 1 coat of Sashco’s Capture®, or Transformation Siding & Trim in the color of your choice, followed by 1–2 coats of Symphony ®. Download the Symphony ® application instructions at sashco.com/log-home. 

Colorfast Pre-Stain Base Coat
Sashco Colorfast Pre-Stain

What’s Really Important

It is well known by painters and stainers everywhere that the single most important factor in the longevity of any staining or painting job is the quality of the prep done beforehand. Clean, sound, warm, dry, and textured wood are the five characteristics of a well-prepped surface. Download Restoring the Dream, Sashco’s complete guide to log home refinishing and maintenance for details on these five factors and other keys to a successful and long-lasting (read: let’s not ever do a restoration like this on our home again) job. Find it at sashco.com/restoration. The second most important factor affecting the longevity of stain is the quantity of stain applied to the wood. Light mist coats will fail quickly, even with the best stains out there. Applying as much Colorfast™ as the wood will accept, while back- brushing and forcing it into the wood, results in dramatically improved performance and longevity of both Colorfast™ and the Sashco stain applied over top. This includes filling any cracks or checks in the wood with stain! The first coat is the only time Colorfast™ can penetrate into the wood. See proper staining in action! Watch the video at http://bit.ly/1BOuB7L

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614 



Wednesday, August 14, 2024

Applying Log End Seal by Perma-Chink

Log End Seal 1-gal

 

Log End Seal by Perma-Chink protects exposed log ends from deterioration from the elements. Log End Seal is a clear finish that helps to keep water from penetrating into the log ends and provides a durable layer of protection against sun, wind, and weather damage. Even if the log ends are coated with quality stain, the exposed grain of the wood acts like small straws drawing water into the log. This gives rot and decay an opportunity to start. If left unprotected, log or log corner replacement may eventually be required.

To apply, thoroughly sand all exposed log ends, taking care not to leave heavy sanding marks or gouges. Apply any Lifeline™ brand exterior stain to the entire home, including the log ends. When the Lifeline stain has dried, apply one coat of Log End Seal with a brush, pad or trowel taking care to completely cover the exposed log end. Try to avoid leaving brush marks or uncoated areas on the ends. Wipe off any excess that may have worked its way onto the sides of the logs. Let the Log End Seal dry and finish with a Lifeline topcoat over the entire home. Wash equipment and brushes with soap and warm water. Dried Log End Seal may be removed with alcohol.

Log End Seal is a product unique to Perma-Chink Systems. Although Log End Seal is a fairly simple and easy product to use there are some tips that can help you avoid problems especially in the fall when cooler temperatures slow down the curing process. The most important thing about applying Log End Seal is that it needs to go on in one thin coat. In order to attain a thin coat the log ends need to be sanded fairly smooth. If they are not smooth the rough surface texture will prevent a thin coat application and the thicker the film, the longer it will take to cure. One of the characteristics of Log End Seal is that it stays white until it is fully cured and if it gets wet during the curing process the white color can last for several weeks. If Log End Seal is applied in a thick coat and gets wet it may take several months for it to become completely clear and transparent. This is the most frequent cause of complaint from our customers. Eventually it will cure and become clear but in the meantime the log ends on your home will have a white haze.

Choosing the right application tool can help prevent applying too thick a film. Rather than using a standard paintbrush, a paint pad or sponge brush works well. Since Log End Seal is thick and viscous, some people prefer to apply Log End Seal with a wide blade trowel. Any of these tools will work as long as the Log End Seal is applied in a thin coat. When applied correctly one gallon of Log End Seal goes a long way. One gallon covers 30 to 40 square feet which equates to 100 eight inch diameter log ends or 180 six inch diameter log ends.

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

Tuesday, August 13, 2024

Applying Organiclear TM5 First Treat

TM-5 First Treat

 Organiclear™ TM-5 First Treat wood coating is used to protect newly debarked (green) logs and timber during processing, storage, and delivery. TM-5 First Treat protects against Mold, Mildew, and Fungus and three way protection from Rain, Fading, and Weather. (Optimal protection is afforded against discoloration from UV rays.) The special one-coat water based formulation penetrates deep into the interior of green wood. TM-5 First Treat is a concentrate that can be diluted with two parts water, or 1:1 for high moisture woods such as Norway Pine or Aspen. TM-5 First Treat is designed for dipping, though spraying works well. If you choose to dilute at 2:1, it may require monitoring logs for additional coatings.

TM-5FT (First Treat) Aqueous Penetrating Wood Coating

Fresh Wood Commercial Applications

Product Description

  • For handcrafted or machined logs and timber, use Organiclear™ TM-5FT wood coatings to protect newly debarked (green) logs and timber during processing, storage and delivery. Standard Tar Products' special one-coat water based formulation penetrates deep into the interior of green wood. Optimal protection is afforded against discoloration from UV rays.
  • TM-5FT offers similar features as our ready-to-use TM-5 finish, but it is formulated as a water-dilutable material for maximum cost efficiency and economy in commercial use.

Sawmill and Diptank Users:

  • TM5-FT is specifically formulated to be effective on freshly cut, newly debarked wood.  
  • Treatment should be applied immediately (within 24 hours) to protect logs from deterioration and damage that can occur from UV rays, rain and moisture during storage and processing.

Dilution Directions:

  • Organiclear's™ TM-5FT for commercial use is packaged as a water dilutable treatment.
  • The suggested dilution is two (2) parts water to one (1) part Organiclear™ TM-5FT (2:1).
  • Sawmills and exporters who require greater protection may require less dilution.
  • Refer to product label for dilution instructions.

Dipping Instructions:

  • Carefully empty TM-5FT into the diptank.
  • Add the total amount of water at the proper ratio (2:1 or less).
  • Logs or lumber should be totally immersed to ensure that all wood surfaces are completely treated.
  • For best results, soak lumber for five minutes or longer for each inch of thickness.

Drying Time:

  • Allow 12-24 hours for drying, depending upon the temperature and humidity.

Proper Clothes In Handling:

  • To protect against skin irritation, always wear a long-sleeved shirt, long pants and goggles.
  • Also use an OSHA approved mask to protect against inhaling the vapors.
  • For your information and safety, please take the time to read the product label carefully before use.

Packaging:

Available in 1,5,and 55-gallon containers. The most convenient container for diptank applications
will be 55-gallon drums. 

 

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

Mold and Mildew

Technical Tip from Perma-Chink Systems, Inc Mold and mildew are terms that are used interchangeably since they refer to the same living orga...