Applying Borate Solutions

Technical Tip by Perma-Chink Systems, Inc

Applying Borate Solutions

What is the best way is to apply Shell-Guard RTU, diluted Shell-Guard Concentrate and/or solutions of Armor-Guard? Without a doubt the easiest and most effective way to apply any of these products is with a simple compressed air sprayer, a fancy way of referring to an inexpensive pump-up garden sprayer available at most Do-It-Yourself outlets for less than $20.00. Of course there are some available for a lot more money but they are really not needed for applying borate solutions. A basic pump-up garden sprayer works just fine.
 

What about using an airless sprayer? Airless sprayers put out a fine liquid mist. The droplet size is quite small and is easily carried away with even a slight breeze. In addition, the high surface area of the small droplets allows the water contained in the solution to rapidly evaporate leaving behind a high concentration of borate and mixed glycols. Rather than penetrate into the wood this combination forms a sticky film on the surface of the wood that takes a long time to dry. Not only does this negate the benefit imparted by a borate treatment but unless the sticky film is thoroughly washed off it will interfere with the adhesion of the finish. This can happen even if Shell-Guard RTU is applied with an airless sprayer. With solutions of Armor-Guard the loss of water results in a white coating of borate powder on the surface rather than penetrating into the wood and the white powder will show through our transparent finishes. In other words, don't use an airless sprayer for applying any of our borate preservatives.

For small jobs it's better to use a hand sprayer or a plant mister to apply borate solutions than it is to try and brush them on. Since the viscosity of the solutions is about the same as water it's just about impossible to apply any of them with a brush and not have them run down the wall.

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

Best log home finish- Oil vs Water

Which finish is better for your log or wood home-- oil-based or water-based? We don’t like to pick a side, because the best choice can vary by situation and there are high-performance brands with each. Each category of wood finish has its advantages and disadvantages, and even those differences can vary between brands and formulas.

Deep-penetrating oils are often a preferred choice for high-moisture regions that need the most breathable finish on the wood. Deep-penetrating oils are great for decks and horizontal surfaces because they won’t peel and are easy to maintain. Shallow-penetrating finishes, which can be oil-based or hybrid oil-waterborne formulas, generally are more compatible with caulk and chinking sealants than penetrating oils and they are generally more forgiving to maintain than surface stains. Surface stains are water-based and typically offer the best durability but also require the most meticulous of preparation and maintenance.

No matter what finish you choose for your project, preparation of the surface and proper conditions during application are the biggest factors in achieve the best performance of your log home or wood stain.

For your convenience, we offer a calculator that allows you to determine an estimated amount of staining you need for your home. Our team is also available to answer your questions and guide you through the staining process. Contact us today and we’ll be happy to answer any questions you may have about choosing a finish that is right for your situation.

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

Log Home Chinking vs Caulking

What is the difference being caulking and chinking? We hear this question all the time. They are somewhat interchangeable in application- to some degree- but there are differences. Modern caulking and chinking are both flexible sealants that are used to seal log homes. Historically, chinking and daubbing were a myriad of material put between the courses of logs to fill the gaps and keep out the weather. It may have been any combination of mud, manure, straw, horsehair, moss, or whatever the local environment provided. Gradually that was replaced with a mortar mixture, often applied over wire mesh or other hardware to keep it in place as the mortar dried and cracked. Now we have modern, synthetic log home chinking and caulking. When properly applied, these elastic sealants will stretch and move with the wood to maintain a bond and keep water, weather, and pests out of the home and keep the heat inside during winter months. Following its history, modern chinking is a textured sealant that simulates mortar but stretches like caulking and is most often put over a backer rod between the logs. Caulking can also be used to seal the lateral joints of logs when a subtle, non-chinked style is needed, and it’s also used with backer rod to keep water out of log checks and to seal all other gaps around doors, windows, and other spaces.

At Schroeder Log Home Supply Inc., we believe in the importance of using the right product for the job, and that means using quality sealants that are designed to bond and be elastic for the best performance with log and wood. Brands we carry are Big StretchCaulking, CheckMate2, Conceal Textured Caulking, Energy SealCaulking, Log Builder Caulking, Manus-Bond Caulking, WoodsmanCaulking, Log Jam Chinking, Perma-Chink, and Sansin Timber-TecChinking. Contact us to help decide which may be best for your situation, or to get a color card to determine the best match to your wood finish.

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

How to Repair Peeled Spots

by Perma-Chink Systems, Inc

We occasionally get calls about repairing spots of finish that have peeled from logs, handrails, etc. In most cases the peeling is associated with checks or small fissures that have opened up after the finish was first applied. When this occurs rain water soaks into the bare wood on ether side of the check and when the sun beats on the area the wood turns to water vapor which has enough force to push the finish right off of the surface. If the peeling is limited to a few small areas, touching them up is not very difficult.

Before we get started on the best way to perform the repairs there is one thing we need to cover. If you have leftover product that's over two years old you need to obtain enough fresh stain and topcoat to accomplish the repairs. Using old product is risky and unnecessary. Give us a call and we'll see if there is anything we can do to help. 

Following are the recommended procedures for touching up peeled areas:

1. Sand the peeled areas with 60 to 80 grit sandpaper. Do not use a finer grit. We want the stain to have something to grab onto. Be sure to sand off any surrounding stain film that looks like it may have lost its adhesion.
2. If it's just a few small areas wipe down the sanded spots with a damp rag. For larger spots or multiple areas on a wall it's best to wash the entire wall with a two cups per gallon Log Wash solution. Allow the wall to dry.
3. If the peeling is associated with checks that are ¼” or more wide, seal them with CheckMate 2 after sanding and cleaning but before staining. This will help make the CheckMate 2 less visible.
4. Using a rag not a brush, apply one or two coats of stain to the bare wood. You want to apply enough stain to match the color of the surrounding wood. Since the coarse sanded area may be more absorbent than the original surface one coat of stain may be sufficient to match what's already there. Using a rag helps avoid lap marks and gets some stain down into any unsealed checks as well as small cracks and fissures. 

Once the stain has been applied and the color matches the surrounding wood, one or two coats of Advance Topcoat can be applied with a brush or rag. Lap marks are not much of a concern since the Advance is clear and colorless.

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

Avoiding Metallic Surface Contamination

by Perma-Chink Systems, Inc

Although we emphasize the importance of cleaning the surface prior to the application of our finishes there are some types of surface contaminates that can be very difficult or even impossible to remove with just a light washing. The leading cause of dark discolorations appearing under any transparent finish like LIFELINE is the presence of minute metal particles imbedded in the surface of the wood. All wood contains tannic acid and when tannic acid comes to the surface it can react with these metal particles creating dark discolorations. There is much about this process that we have yet to understand but there are some things that we do know. The first is that the application of chlorine bleach not only accelerates but in many cases initiates this process. The second is that direct sunlight intensifies the discolorations. That's why the south and west walls are typically (but not always) more prone to discolorations than the north and east walls. The third is that areas of the log that cut through heartwood are usually worse than exposed sapwood. This makes sense since heartwood contains a higher concentration of tannic acid than sapwood.
 

The Origin of Metallic Contamination
Milling, Planning and Shaping

All logs and siding used in a log home go through some type of process to remove the bark, cambium and branches and to shape the wood. No matter what process is used, be it milling, planing, draw knifing or even hand hewing, some type of steel blade is involved. Although you may not be able to see them, microscopic particles of steel are deposited on the surface as the blade or blades cut through the wood. If the blades on a milling machine for example get dull, many times more particles of steel will shear off as opposed to when the blades are sharp.

Using the Wrong Materials

Using wire brushes, steel wool or metallic abrasives to help remove old finishes or smooth the surface will definitely create discoloration problems. Small bits of metal will be deposited on the wood and their use should be avoided at all costs.

Sandpaper and Sanding Pads

Although the use of most sandpaper and sanding pads present no risk to the formation of discolorations, it is not out of the realm of possibility for them to be a source of metal contamination, especially if they have been previously used. Let's say a sanding belt was used to remove rust from a steel plate and then used again on a log home. Thousands of small metallic particles will be forced into the wood fibers. The same thing can happen if a sander or sanding disk goes over a nail or screw during the course of sanding a wall. The metal contamination will then be spread over a wide area. We also believe that there are some types or brands of sandpaper that may contain metallic particles along with the abrasives but at this time we have not specifically identified them.

Contaminated Blasting Media

Blasting media like crushed glass is very abrasive and since it maintains its abrasiveness even after being used, some people try to reclaim and reuse it several times. If done once or twice it usually does not present a problem but when reused multiple times it can become contaminated with metal picked up as it flowed through the blaster pot, valves and connections. It can also pick up contamination from the ground when it is reclaimed.

Installation of Steel Roofs and Other Metal Components

You can easily envision the amount of metallic dust and particles generated by cutting or sawing steel roof panels. They may well end up on the surface of your logs or even more likely, your deck. If they are not completely washed away they will become a source of discolorations. Fortunately we have never seen any discolorations associated with particles of aluminum. But any metal that contains iron has the potential for creating dark discolorations.

Preventing Discolorations Due to Contamination

The best way of preventing metallic tannate discolorations is to avoid contaminating the surface in the first place but in the case of metallic particles deposited during the shaping process that's impossible. Wood surfaces should always be thoroughly cleaned with Log Wash, or in the case of milled log siding, Wood ReNew before the first coat of finish is applied.

Steps to Take to Avoid Metallic Contamination:

• Never use a wire brush or steel wood on a wood surface that's going to be finished.
• Use good quality sandpaper and sanding pads and never use any that have been previously used for another purpose. Store them separately in plastic bags and don't allow the abrasive side to contact any metal prior to use.
• If during sanding you run over a nail or screw discard the paper or pad.
• Do not attempt to reuse blasting media more than two to three times and avoid picking up dirt or other contaminates as you reclaim it.
• Wood surfaces should always be thoroughly cleaned with Log Wash or Wood ReNew before the first coat of finish is applied. 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

Log Builder Caulking - NEW Now Available in Clear!

In addition to the popular colors Tan, Woodtone and Dark Brown, Log Builder Caulking is now available in Clear. It’s the same excellent elasticity and ease of application you’ve grown to love, now in CLEAR. Great for sealing tongue and groove pine while staying undetectable. Also stainable to help blend in with…well, whatever color is there. Available in 10.5 oz. and 30 oz. cartridges, as well as 5 gallon pails.
 

 Log Builder Caulking by Sashco is a log home caulking sealant with a limited lifetime warranty. Sashco Log Builder Caulking is designed to meet the demanding sealant needs log homes and is compatible with most construction materials. Sashco Log Builder Caulking is water resistant in 1-4 hours. Sashco Log Builder caulking has superior water resistance. Plus excellent resistance to UV rays. Sashco Log Builder Caulking develops powerful adhesion, remains a rubbery sealant for many years. Not only does Log Builder caulking have powerful adhesion to sound wood - it sticks to a lot more. Granted, you want your sealant to have superior adhesion to all species of wood, but Sashco Log Builder caulking adheres to a variety of surfaces. After all, your log home doesn't just consist of wood. What about windows, doors, and baseboards made of a different material? Sashco Log Builder caulking sticks to most building materials including glass, plastics, and metals. So you can seal around those windows, doors and baseboards effectively. And you can fill checks and cracks since Log Builder caulking adheres to most log home stains and finishes too. Sashco Log Builder caulking has water-based chemistry that is environmentally friendly. All Sashco caulking including Log Builder Caulking is recommended for use with Backer Rod when used with logs. Made in the USA. Log Builder Caulking - How Well Does it Stick? Application Temperature: 40-90° F (log surface temp.) Cleanup: Soap and water. Log Builder Caulking Data | SDS

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

Great Lakes Log Crafters Association Meeting in Land O’ Lakes, WI

April 25-26, 2025 members of Great Lakes Log Crafters Association met in Land O’ Lakes, Wisconsin. GLLCA members Dan and Mary Wait of Frontier Builders, Inc, assembled a great list of speakers speakers talking about Epitome Composite Foundations, Wood treating with Booge, H Windows, Building Codes, and insurance issues impacting construction/manufacturing sectors.

The most interesting topic, was Robotic Solutions, Inc. providing software for log and timber manufacturing industry and ABB Robot Demonstration: Design to Log Panels. Of course a group of handcrafted log professionals were certain to have varying opinions on using robotics in handcrafted log building, but the presentations were informative and interesting for all.

While the robotic portion of the conference was in Frontier Builders, Inc., yard, most of the speakers and conference events were held at the historic Gateway Lodge in a nostalgic timber structure that dates to the 1930’s. The annual conference typically rotates between locations in Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Michigan every year, but at the annual meeting the consensus was to return again to the Gateway Lodge for the 2026 conference. An educational fundraising build to jointly use robotics and handcrafted techniques is being discussed to explore how old and new technologies can be used together in the name of crafting logs. Find more information at www.gllca.org

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614