Answers From The Experts: Q&A With A Log Cabin Maintenance Expert

From LogCabinHub.com:



Earlier in the month we announced our “Answers from the Experts” series. In part two of the series we have interviewed John Schroeder from log help, a log cabin expert, on some of your most popular questions on maintaining, protecting and looking after your log cabin home.

For those of you who own a log home, this post will help you with key maintenance elements of maintaining/restoring chinking, staining your cabin and protecting against mildew, mold, termites and rot.

A full transcript of our interview with John can be seen below:



Answers From The Experts: Q&A With A Log Cabin Maintenance Expert

Check out the Largest Log Home in the World

When most people envision log homes, they think of humble abodes hidden in the woods rather than huge sprawling estates. For the ultra-rich business magnates of the early 20th century, however, big was the only way to go. That’s why Louis G. Kaufman, bank president and early member of the General Motors board of directors, built a massive 266,000-square-foot log mansion on the shores of Lake Superior in 1923. He called it Granot Loma – an amalgamation of the names of his wife and three children – and today the estate still holds the record as the largest log home in the world.

Valued at $40 million, Granot Loma is also the most expensive home in the state of Michigan. It was constructed between 1919 and 1923 for a total cost of about $5 million – roughly $70 million in today’s dollars. Kaufman recruited 22 architects and over 400 Scandinavian craftsmen for the project. Logs for the home were transported from Oregon by rail.

The home features 23 bedrooms, 13 baths and 26 fireplaces. The fireplace in the great room measure 30 feet long, and its mantel is made of a beam salvaged from a shipwreck in Lake Superior. Other furnishings in the house include a chandelier made from the roots of a white pine tree and a Brunswick Pool table from 1900 inlaid with silver and mother of pearl.

The house is built on a plot of land measuring nearly eight square miles along with 13 other outbuildings including a dairy barn, pool house and multiple garages. Today, the enormous residence is listed on the National Registrar of Historic Places.

Environmentalists Embrace Log Home Construction

The mention of log homes immediately brings to mind many thoughts, like warm, cozy, historic, quality craftsmanship, timeless design and durability. Log homes can also be environmentally friendly as well, as attested to by a growing number of environmentalists who embrace log home construction. After all, log homes are one of the oldest forms of building, and have been trusted by homeowners for centuries.

Houses cannot be built from nothing, but they can be built with sustainable practices from renewable resources like sustainably harvested logs – a completely renewable resource. Some log home builders even intentionally source sustainably harvested logs for the homes that they build, and some especially environmentally conscious homeowners are able to have their log home constructed wholly or partly with logs that were harvested from their property.

Aesthetic considerations are also important in a home, and log homes often look particularly nice in rural, wooded areas. In the same way that adobe homes look perfectly natural in the desert, log homes blend in with the environment in a wooded setting and look as though they are part of the landscape.

Well-built log homes are also extremely energy efficient due to the thermal mass of the logs. The thickness of the walls in a log home makes the building easier to heat and cool than many other types of construction, and this thermal efficiency, in turn, reduces the need for energy consumption in all seasons. When combined with eco-friendly energy options like solar, wind or geothermal, log homes can even be nearly entirely self-sufficient in some instances.

Maintenance of a log home is similar to any wood building, with occasional resealing needed based on the weather. Plus, a quality log home will last for many decades, resulting in a lower environmental impact throughout its lifespan and an improved durability that makes them one of the most sustainable buildling options.

Schroeder Log Home Supply has been meeting the needs of customers in the log home industry since 1986. We offer guides, sealant, tools, fasteners and nearly everything you need to build, maintain and repair your log home. Shop our full product selection online now or call us today at 800-359-6614 to learn more. 

A Spring Cleaning Checklist for Your Log Home

Now that the cold days of winter are finally starting to recede, you’re probably pretty eager to get outside and catch up on some work around the house. Why not start by treating your home to a little spring cleaning? Log home construction is remarkably durable, but a few months of harsh winter weather can still take a toll. Fortunately, a little seasonal cleaning can go a long way toward preserving your log home for the future.   

Exterior Wash

There are a number of cleaning products available to help you remove all manner of grit and grime from your home’s exterior.  They can also curb the growth of mold and mildew which are of particular concern after wet winters. These products can be applied with a garden hose, so you won’t have to run out and buy a pressure washer.

Inspect for Rot

As you wash your home, keep an eye out for any logs with rot and decay. If you notice any significant rot, you may have to call in the professionals to have it repaired or replaced. Whatever you do, don’t just ignore it. If you’re not sure how to remedy the problem, seek a professional consultation to determine the best course of action.

Apply Finish

Consider resealing your log home every few years. This will help to protect it from a number of environmental threats such as water intrusions and insect invasions. You can test the water-resistance of your log home with a spray bottle. Simply spray a section of wood and watch to see if the water beads on the surface or soaks into the wood. If it doesn’t bead, it’s time to reseal.

Clear Gutters

This is an essential maintenance item in any home, but it’s especially important in log homes. Clogged gutters and downspouts can cause rain water to run straight down your home’s exterior, increasing the risk of mold and mildew growth. Prolonged exposure to rainfall can also lead to rot if your home isn’t properly sealed. Keeping your gutters clear will ensure that rain water is deposited safely away from your home.  

The Difference Between Chinking and Caulking

All log homes need sealant to close the gaps between log courses. Because even machine milled logs won’t lie perfectly flush against one another, these sealants are necessary to prevent water intrusion and provide insulation. These sealants typically fall into one of two categories – chinking and caulking. Today we’ll compare the applications for both of these sealant types.

Chinking

This is the type of sealant that has been traditionally used in log homes for centuries. It forms the characteristic white bands between the courses in older log homes. Whereas chinking was originally a Portland cement-based mortar, today it is an acrylic compound designed for extra elasticity and adhesion. Before chinking can be applied, a backer rod must be placed in the space between the log courses. This ensures a firm seal between the joints. Next, Chinking is applied over the backer rod, filling in the remaining gaps between the logs. The width of the chinking in a given log home will depend on its construction and the aesthetic preferences of the owners.

Caulking

This type of sealant is only used in modern, machine-milled log homes. It’s very similar to the caulk you’ve probably used in your bathroom or kitchen. Whereas chinking is designed to fill broad gaps between courses, caulk is used to seal narrow gaps. Likewise, it doesn’t require backer rods. The caulking in a machine-milled home is more or less invisible from a distance. Caulk is also more elastic than chinking.

Whatever type of sealant you need for your, Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. can help. Browse our inventory online, or give us a call today for more information!  

Choosing a Tenon Cutter

Rustic log furniture is increasing in popularity, and many people are opting to build DIY log furniture and railings at their own cabin or home. There are a number of options available when choosing a tenon cutter. There may be other brands available on the market, but this comparison will focus on E-Z Tenon Cutter, Lumberjack Tenon Cutters, and Northwest Manufacturing Tenon Cutters. Scope, Style, and Size are three considerations you may use to help choose the right tool:

-Scope

The first consideration is the scope of work or project. If there is a plan to make log railings or furniture as a business venture, then purchasing a higher quality but more expensive tool may be the right choice. If this is just a weekend project at home and the tool may seldom be used again, then a minimal investment would be preferable.

Weekend project:

Lumberjack Home Series, Lumberjack Commercial Series, or E-Z Tenon Cutter

Mid-range value:

Lumberjack Industrial Series or Lumberjack Pro-Series

In it for the long haul:

Northwest Manufacturing Tenon Cutter

Important to note is that all the tenon cutters have blades that can be both sharpened and replaced. So regardless of which brand is chose and how much wear-and-tear the tools actually get, it's possible to keep the cutting edge sharp with blade honing and eventual blade replacement.

-Style

The profile style a tenon cutter leaves on the wood stock can vary by brand and series. Some people prefer to see the two logs butt directly against one another, while others prefer to see the taper from the full stock down to the tenon peg inserted into the other log.

90º: E-Z Tenon Cutter 90

60º: Lumberjack Commercial Series, Lumberjack Industrial Series

45º: E-Z Tenon Cutter 45

Radius/Radius Shoulder: Lumberjack Home Series, Lumberjack Pro-Series

90-degree shoulder (E-Z 90 shown)

60-degree taper (Industrial Series shown)

Radius Shoulder (Home Series shown)

It should be noted that while many people leave the 60º or 45º taper visible for aesthetic purposes, some prefer to use a countersink. Tenon Cutter Countersinks are used to cut the funnel shaped impression into the post after drilling with a self-feed bit, to accept the taper of the log rail. This permits the ability to obtain tighter fits on furniture or to give a stronger shoulder fit on rails.

-Size

The size of the wood stock and the desired size of the tenon are two considerations when choosing a cutter. If one was to pick just one size of tenon cutter, 1-1/2” is probably most versatile. For most furniture having a 1” and a 2” tenon cutter would be preferable. Some projects with larger or smaller logs might require larger or smaller tenon cutters.

The E-Z Tenon Cutter gives an adjustable option to get a variety of sizes out of one tool. With other tenon models, you would want one, two, three, or more tenon cutters to use for cutting different components of the log project.

-Summary

Most of the tenon cutters on the market will have options of size to fit the project. The three considerations listed above, plus a summary of each tenon cutter brand listed below may help to narrow your choice:

90º or 45º E-Z Tenon Cutter: Steel and aluminum construction.

Pros: Adjustable tool that can cut a variety of sizes (1” – 2-1/2”). Dual blade for 90º model. Comparatively inexpensive.

Cons: Requires an extra step of drilling a 3/8” pilot hole. The final product may be a rougher cut and require some sanding. Single blade on 45º model.

Lumberjack Commercial Series & Home Series: Die cast from A380 aluminum with powder coated finish.

Pros: Inexpensive option. Self-centering design. Dual blades that cut twice as fast as ordinary tenon cutters and generate less heat for long lasting service. Blades of hardened steel. 1/2 inch steel shank is threaded for easy replacement. Lifetime warranty for body and shank. Blades are covered for 90 days from the date of purchase for breakage under normal working conditions.

Cons: No IN-SIGHT measurement system (viewing slot on side) to monitor length of tenon or to insert quick-stop bolt. Fewer size options.

Lumberjack Industrial Series & Pro-Series: CNC machined from solid 6061 aircraft aluminum.

Pros: Self-centering design. Dual blades that cut twice as fast as ordinary tenon cutters and generate less heat for long lasting service. Blades of hardened steel. 1/2" steel shank is threaded for easy replacement. Patent pending IN-SIGHT measurement system of slots and radial grooves at 1/2" intervals for measurement of tenon length during cutting. Lifetime warranty for body and shank. Blades are covered for 90 days from the date of purchase for breakage under normal working conditions.

Cons: Higher cost than Commercial Series or Home Series.

Northwest Manufacturing Tenon Cutter: Cast aluminum.

Pros: High quality construction, long lasting. Adjustable shaft to allow custom sizing of the length of the tenons. Two high carbon steel blades.

Cons: Higher cost. Larger drill (3/4") required for some sizes.

The details given should help to make a choice when selecting the right tenon cutter for the work being done. If there are any other questions about choosing or using a tenon cutter, give us a call at 1-800-359-6614, or contact us through our website here.

Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc

www.loghelp.com

1-800-359-6614

Which Packing Cup is best?

When using an Albion caulk gun for bulk caulking or chinking application, leather is a one-type-fits-all material for packing cups and is included with the gun. The packing cups are the plunger-type component that pulls the sealant into the barrel of the gun and pushes it back out. In some situations one may choose to replace the leather packing cups with a different type of material. Here is a general guide for when to use which cup:

#21-1 Leather:  Low friction, tough and durable, excellent chemical resistance.  Soak in motor oil to maintain.  May swell then break down when used with water based materials.  Oil more frequently or choose another packing cup for acrylics. 

#21-7 Impregnated Leather:  Similar to soft leather cups but stiffened with wax to reduce water absorption and blow-by.

#21-16 Nitrile Rubber:  Good seal, elastic, moderate friction.  Excellent for water-based materials.  Preferred by chinkers.  Not recommended for use with solvent-based materials.       

#21-26 Nylon:  (Not shown in image) Springy, moderate friction.  Better chemical resistance than Hytrel.

#21-24 Teflon:   Very low friction, excellent chemical resistance.  Be careful not to nick or bend out of shape.  Expensive.  Excellent for bulk or sausage packes.

#21-24 Hytrel:  (Stiff "H") Higher friction, good chemical resistance.  Sharp edge makes it excellent for sausages.