Bor8 Rods (Impel Rods)

Bor8 Rods (previously known as Impel Rods) are a highly effective preservative system for the prevention and control of fungal decay (log rot) and many destructive insects in wood structures. When moisture contents reach levels suitable for decay (i.e. around 25%), Bor8 Rods slowly dissolve and begin to diffuse throughout the wood. Under 25%, the preservative becomes dormant. 

Directions: Drill appropriate sized holes to accommodate the predetermined number and size of Bor8 Rods required; Insert the suitable size and number of Bor8 Rods into the holes; and seal the hole with a treated wooded dowel, wood filler or caulk. Drill holes 1/16" greater in diameter than the preservative rods to result in a snug fit. This will ensure proper diffusion in all directions from the rod. In addition, leave a minimum of 1/8" of head space between Bor8 Rods and hole plug to allow for expansion. After installation, paint or any other type of surface coating may be applied to the wood if desired. Install Bor8 Rods in the general vicinity of where the potential for decay is greatest or where decay exists. Bor8 Rods can be inserted through any wood surface depending on access, in either a staggered, linear or angled pattern. Start at 1" from a joint or the end of the wood and cover the entire affected length. Linear spacing along the grain should not exceed 12" and spacing across the grain should not exceed 3" on the center.

 

 

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

Armor-Guard Borate Preservative

 Armor-Guard is a 100% powder borate wood preservative that you dissolve in water to use. Armor-Guard protects uninfested wood from wood decay and wood destroying insects. Like all borate treatments, your exterior wood surfaces should be protected with a log home finish to seal in the borates. Do not apply Armor-Guard over a stain or finish. Armor-Guard stays near the surface and so should be reapplied if your log home finish is physically or chemically removed. For a more penetrating borate treatment for your log home see Shell-Guard RTU.

Remedial & Preventative Treatment: for remedial control of organisms attacking wood, apply 10% aqueous solution of Armor-Guard by brush or spay until surface is thoroughly wet (approximately 5 gallons of solution per 1000 sq.ft.). Application may also be made by drilling and then injecting the solution under pressure into sound wood or until run-off is observed from entry/exit holes of infested wood. * Alternatively, apply Armor-Guard powder to infested members by drill and injection into galleries or dust generously on wood surfaces and in wall voids at a rate of approximately 0.5 ounces (12-14 grams) per square foot.

Pre-Treatment: spray or powder/dust applications of Armor-Guard may also be made to wood during construction. Apply solution to all accessible surfaces of bare wood at a rate of approximately 5 gallons per 1000 sq.ft. Application should be performed after framing and roofing are in place and before insulation and dry wall are installed. Avoid spaying electrical components. Protect treated wood from excessive rain. End-cuts of wood may also be treated by spray or brush methods listed above, or by 5 minute dipping in Armor-Guard treatment solution.

Armor-Guard Protects Against:

• Ambrosia Beetles, Carpenter Ants, False Powder Post Beetles, Furniture and Deathwatch Beetles, Longhorn Beetles, Old House Borers, & Powder Post Beetles
• Termites: Dampwood, Drywood, & Subterranean
• Wood Decay Fungi

Features and Benefits

• Can be used on all wood and wood composites
• Provides a shell of protection around all treated wood
• Will prevent and kill termites, carpenter ants, wood boring beetles and wood rot
• Does not affect the color of wood
• Does not interfere with the application of high quality wood finishes
• Is easy to mix and apply and labeled for home owners to use
• EPA approved

Application Temperature: 40° to 90° F.
Coverage: Approximately 200 sq. ft. per gal. of mixed solution. A 17 lb. pail covers approximately 3,400 sq. ft.
Coats: 1 coat application. Mix 1 pound (4 cups or 2 of the enclosed scoops) of powder with one gallon of water.
Surface Prep: Must be clean dry bare wood. Do not apply over a finish.
Drying Time: 1-3 days. Clean up: Soap and Water
Shelf Life: 5 years; the stability of Armor-Guard in a liquid solution has a limited life cycle. This is why we recommend to mix up only what you're going to use and store the powder for later.

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744

www.loghelp.com

 

Tips for Rotted Logs

 Tips For Rotted Logs

For restoring log ends like the ones pictured and maintaining the natural gray patina of the logs.

1. First, use a borate product like PeneTreat (see Tim-bor) to saturate the logs and keep them from rotting any further.
2. Next, use LiquidWood to seal cracks and create an undercoating for the WoodEpox to adhere to.
3. Then, use new lumber or a piece of straight grained salvaged or similar material to cut a "plug" to fill the cavity.
4. Saturate the plug with Tim-bor.
5. After the Tim-bor has dried, coat the plug with Liquid Wood, insert the plug and use WoodEpox to finish filling in around the plug and the cavity wall. Note you can use Liquid Wood and sawdust to create a putty or a paste to fill the cavity as well.
6. You can use a charcoal colored masonry pigment (available from masonry stores). Just add enough of the pigment to color the WoodEpox gray like the rest of the building. Just knead it in with the WoodEpox. Remember, you only have to color the last 1/2" of the end of the log.
7. Use an end grain sealer like Log End Seal to seal the ends of the wood.

To add strength and stability to these log ends without replacing them with new crowns: Drill 1' from the log end back horizontally into the more stable wood and use 1' lengths of Fiberglass Reinforcement Rods to act as an internal strength pin. Use the Liquid Wood as a glue around the rod. You should use at least three rods per log.

To hide the end of the rods, you can cut a wooden end plug coated with LifeTime (LifeTime will turn the new wood gray to match the rest of the building).

Note: You can also spray the entire building with LifeTime to keep it gray. What is really nice about the LifeTime is that it is a one time application. You can also use products like Sansin WoodForce Clear, Outlast Q8 Log Oil 00 Clear, Woodguard or WR-5 Clear as a water protection for the building.

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744

www.loghelp.com

 

Tim-bor Professional Borate Preservative

Why You Need A Wood Preservative

Rot, weather, insects, fungi all pose a serious threat to your logs. Protect your investment—treat your logs first to make them last. All wood faces the possibility of rot and insect infestation—even in dry climates. Fungi and insects actually consume the cells of dead wood, often causing severe structural damage, damage that often requires log replacement—a costly repair. Tim-bor® helps protect your home from the costly damage caused by rot and insect infestation.

What is Tim-bor® ?

Tim-bor® is a borate-based wood preservative. Borates are well-known across the world for their protective qualities. And like other borates, Tim-bor® is highly effective in the prevention of most rot and wood-boring insects. When using Tim-bor®, a protective “shell” coating helps defend your home against dry, wet, and brown rot as well as termites, house borers, powderpost beetles and carpenter ants (to name a few).

Tim-bor Professional Borate in 6 gallon and 1.5 pound

The Tim-bor® Difference

Tim-bor® is registered with the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) for spray and brush application, which makes it perfect for remedial treatment when you follow all application and use guidelines. Do not mix Tim-bor® into stains. For borates to be effective and to provide long-term protection, they must soak into the wood itself, not remain in the coating. Although some stains contain borates, the low percent- age of borate in the stain (generally 2-3%) provides lit- tle to no appreciable benefit. Follow the Tim-bor® mix- ing and application guidelines to achieve recommended BAE (borate acid equivalent) levels that truly provide long-term, effective protection. Tim-bor® can be applied by brushing, spraying, dipping, kerf-flooding or hole flooding. It comes in powder form and just needs to be mixed with water for application. Tim-bor® is packaged in two convenient sizes: 6-gallon pails that are easy to carry and double as a handy source for mixing the solution and the 1.5 lb. packet—perfect for smaller jobs. The active ingredient in Tim-bor® (disodium octaborate tetrahydrate, a refined form of the natural mineral borax) is less toxic to people and animals than many other chemicals used for wood preservation. However, since no pesticide is completely safe, Tim-bor® must be handled and used as directed. Borates do not affect the natural color or strength of wood they are completely odorless they’re not corrosive to metal fasteners, nails or screws. And when a “Tim-bor® home” is properly sealed against moisture, the borates can provide many years of effective protection.

More Protection for Your Money

The best part about Tim-bor® is the money it saves you. Not only is Tim-bor® affordable, it reduces the risk of potential log replacement. According to the most comprehensive study avail- able, the depth of penetration of Tim-bor® is as deep or deeper than other borate products that use slow-drying and toxic solvents (like ethylene glycol) in their formulations. Contact Sashco at 1-800-767-5656 if you’d like a copy of this study.

The Basics in Applying Tim-bor®

1. Read this entire Data Tec and the container label before applying Tim-bor®. It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling.

2. Mix Tim-bor® at a rate of 1-pound (1 loosely packed quart) to 1-gallon of water.

3. Wood must be clean and bare; free of dirt, wax, mill glaze and surface finishes, and wood surface temperature above 40̊F.

4. Apply Tim-bor® at the rate of 1 mixed gallon per 150 ft2 of wood surface. Apply a second coat 4 to 24 hours later. Thoroughly soak cut ends, checks and cracks.

5. Coat the logs with a water-repellent finish after the Tim-bor® solution has thoroughly dried. Use a moisture meter to verify that the log’s moisture content doesn’t exceed 19%.

Where to Use Tim-bor®

Use Tim-bor® on above-ground wood surfaces, including logs, timbers, dimensional lumber, siding, etc. Wood subject to direct moisture contact must be coated with a good water-repellent finish after treating with Tim-bor®.

Surface Preparation

Wood surface must be bare: free of dirt, wax, mill glaze and surface finishes. Remove all previous coat- ings by media blasting, sanding, chemical stripping and/ or power washing. Surface discoloration from mold or mildew should be treated with Sashco’s CPR® Log Cleaner & Brightener before applying Timbor®. Read “Keeping the Dream Alive,” Sashco’s complete staining guide, for more detailed instructions on this and the finishing process. Do not apply to frozen wood. Log (not air) temperature must be between 40̊F and 90̊F. It is best to apply Tim-bor® to dry wood.

Mixing Tim-bor®

Mix at the rate of one pound, or loosely packed quart, to one gallon of water. The Tim-bor® mixture requires only mild stirring before application. The mixture will be clear and water thin. With this mixture, all application methods described herein will yield a minimum retention level of 0.24 pounds per cubic foot boric acid equivalent to 1/2”.

Methods of Application

Tim-bor® may be applied by brushing, spraying (with a garden sprayer), dipping, kerf-flooding or hole flooding. Full immersion dipping yields the deepest and most complete protection, especially with large logs. Kerf-flooding accompanied with brushing or spraying, yields nearly the same level of protection as dipping. Brushing and spraying can completely penetrate dimensional lumber and can provide excellent “shell” protection for timbers and logs to a depth of 1/8” to 1/2” — which is adequate for most applications. NOTE: Diffusion of Tim-bor® into the wood begins immediately and requires several days for completion. With “shell” protection in large logs or timber, pre-existing insect larva may not be killed. Upon maturing, they may emerge from the wood. Insects must ingest the substance to be killed. Tim-bor® is not a contact killer. Further insect infestations, however, will be prevented.

Brushing or Spraying

Apply Tim-bor® at a rate of 1 mixed gallon per 150 ft2 of wood surface. Apply a second coat 4 to 24 hours later. Thoroughly soak cut ends and apply to checks and cracks.

Kerf-Flooding, Hole Flooding, and Spraying/ Brushing

Logs 9” in diameter and larger are often kerfed to control unwanted checking. When kerfing a log in the shape of a trough (with 3/8” wide chain saw to a depth of 3”), simply pour the Tim-bor® solution into the kerf. Fill the kerf at a rate of 15 to 20 lineal feet per mixed gallon. Let soak. It will take 1 to 2 days for the logs to absorb all the liquid. Protection may also be gained by pouring powdered Tim-bor® into the kerf (0.2 to 0.3 pounds per lineal foot). Pour water into the kerf to dissolve and carry the Tim-bor® into the wood. Brush or spray the exterior of the logs with more Tim-bor® after either of these methods as described above. NOTE: Be sure the kerf or holes do not affect the structural strength of the log. HINT: Runoff from vertical walls may be contained by using plastic sheeting to form an accumulation basin. The trapped liquid may then be recycled and will be prevented from injuring nearby foliage.

Dipping

Dip logs or lumber in Tim-bor® for 6 to 10 minutes, depending on log diameter. Let excess liquid drain back into the tank, dip again 24 hours later. Cover wood with a tarp or place in a shed for at least 48 hours prior to coating with a good exterior finish.

After Applying Tim-bor®

Treated wood must be protected from direct contact with moisture or the active ingredient may leach out. It’s best to wait at least 48 hours (in warm, dry weather; longer in cool, humid weather) after applying Tim-bor® to coat wood with a water-repellent finish. Let the surface thoroughly dry and brush away any crystals that appear before staining. Use a moisture meter to verify that the logs’ moisture content doesn’t exceed 19%. Clean Up Use soap and water to clean equipment, skin and clothing.

Please download the Tim-bor® full info sheet for details on: • Storage and Disposal • First Aid • Enviromental Hazards • Warranty www.sashco.com/timbor-sds-info

 

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744

www.loghelp.com 

 

Sansin Boracol: Diffusable, long-term decay, insect and mold protection

By Sjoerd Bos, Managing Director at Sansin

Wood is an incredibly strong building material, but it must be protected properly to stand the test of time, and that means protecting it against wood-destroying fungi, insects and mold. Sansin Boracol 20-2 is designed to do just that - fight fungi and insect infestation. It is recommended for use on roof, floor or structural timbers, joinery, joist ends, and door and window framing. Boracol 20-2 penetrates wood exceptionally well – even heartwood, up to 3-5mm deep. It establishes a reserve from where further penetration takes place (up to 40 mm over two years in dry wood).

Because Boracol diffuses with moisture, it migrates into areas with higher moisture content. Boracol can also be used to eradicate wood rot in existing structures, and it can also be used to protect new and existing logs and timbers against fungi and wood-boring insect. In addition to organic surfaces such as wood, Boracol works to prevent mold on inorganic materials like stone or concrete. Sansin Boracol contains boron, which is far less hazardous than traditional treatments and will give your project the lasting protection it needs – with low toxicity.

 The Science Behind Boracol

 Premature decay of untreated wood that was periodically or permanently exposed to increased moisture content (over 25%) reached serious proportions in North America in the mid-2000s. As a result, requirements for reliable treatments were introduced. Boron-based wood preservatives were found to be the most acceptable pre- and remedial treatment for rot and insect attack.

In addition to their proven efficiency, the borate formulations are widely accepted as environmentally safe wood preservatives, having very low toxicity. Boracol wood preservatives are based on inorganic Boron (disodium octaborate tetrahydrate), which not only has the ability to diffuse in moist wood but also contains a very low vapor pressure and has the ability to progressively penetrate the wood even several years after application. Over this time, because of the boron concentration in the wood, the degrading organisms have no chance to survive and cause damage.

The only condition for proper performance is that the treated wood should not be exposed to direct contact with water (i.e. wood-in-ground contact or occasional heavy rain over construction wood). If the wood is exposed to water in this way, it is possible the Boron will “travel the opposite way” by a leaching process. To keep this from happening, a post-treatment application of the wood surfaces is recommended by applying a proven wood protection system like Sansin SDF, DEC or Classic 1-2-3. 

How to Apply Boracol 

Boracol can be applied by brushing, dipping or spraying. Within the first 24 to 48 hours, the product will penetrate 3-5 mm deep into the wood and will establish a reserve of over-concentrated Boron from which further penetration and diffusion will take place depending on the wood’s moisture content.

Brush Application: This method requires some shear force to be applied in order to evenly spread the product over a range of different surface profiles. The brushing method yields best results if applied before wood components are assembled. 

Dipping: This method requires a non-corrosive dipping tank and an additional support surface inclined at an angle to allow excess product to drain off into the tank. The advantage of this method is that all the surfaces – including splits and cracks – are fully treated.

Spraying: Different spray applicators can be used, and the viscosity of the product can be adapted by adding up to 5% water. 

Injection Method: This method is used to increase the quantity of Boron in wood locations where condensed water may be trapped for a longer period. A syringe-type injector can be used to fill cracks and gaps or pre-drilled holes.

It is advised to clean the wood before treatment. Vacuum cleaning, power washing or compressed air are good ways to remove dirt. Boracol forms a wet-appearing film on wood surfaces as soon as the product is applied. The film will stay on wood for a period necessary for the solvent to penetrate the wood surface, bringing the Boron compound deeper in the wood. During this time, the treated wood surfaces should be protected from contact with water.

If the treated wood is intended for subsequent paint or stain application, allow at least seven days for Boracol to completely penetrate and disappear from the surface. If a slight film or crystal-like particles are visible, the surface should be wiped off with a damp cloth. Light sanding can be very helpful to remove boron crystals and improve adhesion of the coating. Subsequent coating is particularly important when wood is exposed to contact with rain or con-densed water that stays trapped in the wood for a longer period of time (e.g. balconies). To learn more about Sansin Boracol 20-2, click here.

The Old Forestry Mixture

The old forestry mixture, as some have called it, is a formula for a penetrating oil stain developed by the Forest Products Laboratory in the 1950's. Other than the old forestry mixture, it's more formerly know as the Forest Products Laboratory Natural Finish. The FPL Natural Finish was introduced as follows:

"Many homeowners want a finish that retains a part of the natural color and the grain of new wood or one that enhances the rustic appearance of lumber or plywood. The commercially available natural finishes that form a clear film, such as varnish, have been so short-lived, however, that they are not recommended for exterior use. One durable natural finish is the penetrating stain, developed at the Forest Products Laboratory in the 1950's. The FPL natural finish was formulated to overcome the more serious shortcomings inherent in such finishes of t the film-forming type that are so susceptible to failure by cracking ind peeling. Because the stain penetrates the wood surface and does not form a coating, there is no failure by blistering and peeling even in excessive moisture conditions. There is no coating to scrape before refinishing. Thus, the penetrating stain is easily maintained at a low cost on a variety of wood surfaces. Test results indicate that the first application of the FPL natural finish to smoothly planed surfaces fully exposed to the weather should last I about 3 years. When refinished after weathering, the finish will last much longer. Two coats of stain applied to rough-sawn or weathered surfaces may last 10 years or more."

The exact recipe and full document are listed here. It contains a blend of linseed oil, paraffin wax, solvent, and some other ingredients, including Penta, which is no longer available to the public and restricted to things like the manufacturing of telephone poles and railroad ties. While some of the ingredients are difficult to obtain and Penta is nye impossible, there is at least one alternative on the market. As a ready-made option, a formula similar to that old mixture is available under the brand Organiclear WR-5.

WR-5 Log Home Stain is a superior exterior wood treatment that restores, preserves and enhances the natural beauty of your new or existing log home, deck, fences, railings, shakes and shingles, and outdoor wood furniture. WR-5 offers a unique blend of deep-penetrating premium oils, resins and waxes to create a long-lasting MOISTURE-GUARD™ barrier against harsh weather. To enhance wood life further, WR-5 provides maximum protection against ultraviolet (UV) radiation damage by combining sun blockers to absorb and control UV degradation, thus minimizing wood deterioration. WR-5 penetrating coating will also help prevent wood from cracking or peeling. WR-5 also works very well in high humidity areas. WR-5 allows wood to "breathe" naturally through a micro porous film and prevents moisture penetration. Water beads up and rolls off the exterior wood surface. WR-5 brings out the natural grain beauty of the wood while preventing the wood from cracking and peeling. WR-5 is the perfect choice for the full realm of wood protection your home needs to stand the test of time. For new, unfinished decks, apply two coats of WR-5 this year and then either a third in the Fall or one more next year. WR-5 Clear can be used as a second (if only putting on two coats), third coat, or as future maintenance coats though it won't last as long as a pigmented coat. Some people like to use the clear in this way to "lock" in a particular light color. Made in the USA.

End Grain Protection for Logs

Trees are living, breathing organisms. Even after they die and are used in construction as logs and timbers, they continue to function as living, breathing structures. The cell structure of wood is designed like a bundle of straws, perfect for channeling water, nutrients and other things critical to the life and processes of the tree. When the tree dies, however, that structure remains. The 'straws' are still there and they will still suck up water and channel it just as designed to do. This is why in order to protect logs and other wood structures, it is important to protect the exposed end grain and prevent the 'straws' from sucking up moisture, which will lead to rot. Wood is a strong, renewable, environmentally-friendly, and all around excellent material for building. The key to its longevity is to keep it dry so that it will last for centuries. A major key to keeping it dry is protecting the end grain.

Several ways to effectively protect the end grain on log and timber structures is in design considerations, borate and stain saturation, end grain sealers, and physical barriers like decorative caps and post jacks.

Design Considerations
The most important consideration for protecting wood from decay is in design. Long roof overhangs are well worth the extra cost in the protection they give to logs and timbers. Log ends should not jut past the roofline or sit in the path of a dripline. Although timbers reaching past a roofline may look neat, design should follow function, and leaving the end grain exposed to prolonged moisture exposure is a formula for decay.

One easy way to help protect end grain from prolonged moisture exposure is to profile horizontal logs with a back-slanted cut. An angle of cut that leaves end grain facing upward will collect water and channel it back into the log. A straight vertical cut would be preferable. Even better would be a profile that slants backward so that the end grain is protected under the overhang of the log itself, in addition to the roof protection.

The design of post placement is also an important consideration. Moisture doesn't only come from above as rain, but it can be absorbed from below as moisture from the ground or as sitting rainwater on the slab. Log or timber posts that sit right on the slab will suck up water like a straw and quickly lead to decay. Protecting that end grain with a sealer, a sill seal, and/or even better with a vertical lift, and the log post will last indefinitely. Vertical life can come from post screw jacks or even stone or concrete footings with a moisture barrier between.

Saturation with Borates and Stain/Finish
Regardless of how the end grain will be protected, first saturating the raw wood with a copper preservative or borate preservative (such as PeneTreat or ArmorGuard) will provide rot protection in the wood in case of moisture exposure. Additionally or alternatively for log or timber ends that might be in high risk due to moisture exposure, concentrated preservative rods like Bor8 Rods or Cobra Rods are also an option.

To block the absorption of moisture into the wood, it's beneficial to saturate the end grain with whatever stain or finish is being used on the rest of the home. This can be soaked into the end grain to the point of refusal so that being saturated with the resin and solids of the stain, it will not be able to take on water so easily in the future.

End Grain Sealers
In addition to saturation with the stain/finish being used on the rest of the log surface, some opt to give the end grain and additional layer of clear coat protection with an end grain sealer. This could be just an extra later of the top clear coat from the stain system being used, or it could be a sealer designed specifically for end grain. Two options available on the market are oil-based Log-Gevity End Grain Sealer or water-based Log End Seal.

Decorative Caps
Decorative post caps are a popular choice for vertical posts. Both functional as well as aesthetic, decorative caps, such as copper post caps, are a way to protect the upward-exposed end grain while also adding an accent to wood structures.



Sill Seals and Jacks
Protecting the bottoms of vertical log and timber posts is important so that they don't wick up water from the ground or concrete slab. A closed cell sill seal is one way to do this. Post screw jacks also help keep the bottoms of the post from wicking moisture, while they also allow vertical posts to settle with newly constructed log walls.

By protecting the end grain from water and taking other precautions to keep moisture out of the wood, log and timber structures can last centuries to come. Contact Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. with any questions about protecting the end grain of logs and timbers.

Questions? Give us a call at 1-800-359-6614 or contact us through our website here.
Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.

Green Logs, Green Homes

Happy Saint Patrick's Day! It's a good time to remember that unless you specifically stained them to be that color... green logs aren't lucky!

What are green logs?

One way to define green logs is logs that are still wet from being recently cut and have a moisture content of over 18%. In new construction, green logs should be given appropriate settling consideration, such as space above the windows (a common rule of thumb is 1/2" for every foot of log wall). Green wood with moisture content over 18% should also be allowed to dry before applying a final stain/sealer finish. If the wood is too wet, not only could it potentially degrade the penetration and/or adhesion of the coating, but a finish applied to wet wood could also trap moisture behind it and lead to mildew growth or even decay.

Although not common to log homes, green logs could also be defined as green-treated wood, which is wood pressure-treated with a copper preservative that gives a greenish hue. Logs are more typically treated with a borate preservative, but green-treated wood might be seen in deck boards, railings, steps, or other additional features on a log or cedar home. Brand-new green-treated wood can be so saturated with the preservative that any wood stain may have trouble penetrating and/or adhering to it. For this reason, a general rule of thumb would be to let green-treated wood season for at least six months before applying any stain/sealer.

Green logs might also be defined as wet logs with moss or algae growth on them. This is a sign of big trouble and too much prolonged moisture. Whether it is a log at ground level getting too much rain splashback, or a north-facing wall with a leaky gutter, a green log is not a good sign and should be taken care of immediately. Cleaning, preserving, restoring, or possibly partially replacing, are all steps that might be taken after fixing the issue of water exposure.

And yet, while a green log isn't necessarily good, all log homes are green and that's great! In this respect, green means environmentally friendly. Logs are a completely renewable and often locally resourced building material. Even as they grow as trees, logs have taken carbon-dioxide out of the air through the process of photosynthesis. The waste product from building is completely biodegradable. Logs have thermal mass that absorb, retain, and radiate heat back into a home. So while logs may require some attention to resist the natural process of nature, there is no doubt that log homes are green in a good and environmentally friendly kind of way!

Questions on how to keep your log home 'green' in a good way while preventing your logs from going green in a bad way? Give us a call! 1-800-359-6614 or online through our website here.

Snapshot: Log Rot Repair

Preventing log rot is as easy as keeping moisture out of the wood. Unfortunately, sometimes what is relatively easy goes unnoticed and time goes by until water has done its damage. Anything from upward facing cracks to leaky gutters to absence of gutters altogether can drive water into the wood and feed a situation of decay. Prevention is key, but if it's too late for that, here is a snap shot on how to repair rotten wood on your log home.

1. First survey the damage. If the log rot is extensive where full or partial log replacement is required, then you may want to call in a log home restoration professional if you're own carpentry skills are lacking. At Schroeder Log Home Supply we don't do the restoration work ourselves, but we have a collection of contractors listed in our system and we can put you in touch with them. Give us a call at 1-800-359-6614.

2. If the log rot is manageable, remove all wood that is decayed soft beyond the point of salvaging. i.e. If you can scoop it out by hand, get rid of it!

3. Drill small holes in the decayed area (1/8" or so) to perforate the wood and allow for better penetration of preservative and hardener.

4. Apply a borate wood preservative, such as PeneTreat, ArmorGuard, or ShellGuard RTU to kill the rot, and allow the wood to dry out. Brush and spray into the holes and throughout the decayed area.

5. Mix and apply a two-part epoxy wood hardener like LiquidWood or M-Balm. Inject into the holes and cracks and brush throughout decayed area.

6. Mix and apply a two-part epoxy wood filler like WoodEpox or E-Wood. Mix together the two parts, and add pigment to more closely match the surrounding wood. (although the epoxy filler will accept stain, its lighter color may show up contrasted against the rest of the log when using a semi-transparent stain). While still pliable, a brush or sharp tool may be used to etch in lines to mimic the surrounding wood grain.

7. After it's cured, the epoxy wood fillers can be sanded and painted or stained like wood. Finally, make sure that whatever issue caused water to flow into the wood in the first place is solved.

The restoration snapshot above is for informational purposes, but actually procedure required may vary by situation. Call us at 1-800-359-6614 with any questions or concerns or to find a local restoration contractor.