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We furnish the legacy of log, timber, and structures.
Quality products, complemented with contractor referrals and DIY advice. www.loghelp.com 1-800-359-6614
What is the best way is to apply Shell-Guard RTU, diluted Shell-Guard Concentrate and/or solutions of Armor-Guard? Without a doubt the easiest and most effective way to apply any of these products is with a simple compressed air sprayer, a fancy way of referring to an inexpensive pump-up garden sprayer available at most Do-It-Yourself outlets for less than $20.00. Of course there are some available for a lot more money but they are really not needed for applying borate solutions. A basic pump-up garden sprayer works just fine.
What about using an airless sprayer? Airless sprayers put out a fine liquid mist. The droplet size is quite small and is easily carried away with even a slight breeze. In addition, the high surface area of the small droplets allows the water contained in the solution to rapidly evaporate leaving behind a high concentration of borate and mixed glycols. Rather than penetrate into the wood this combination forms a sticky film on the surface of the wood that takes a long time to dry. Not only does this negate the benefit imparted by a borate treatment but unless the sticky film is thoroughly washed off it will interfere with the adhesion of the finish. This can happen even if Shell-Guard RTU is applied with an airless sprayer. With solutions of Armor-Guard the loss of water results in a white coating of borate powder on the surface rather than penetrating into the wood and the white powder will show through our transparent finishes. In other words, don't use an airless sprayer for applying any of our borate preservatives.
For small jobs it's better to use a hand sprayer or a plant mister to apply borate solutions than it is to try and brush them on. Since the viscosity of the solutions is about the same as water it's just about impossible to apply any of them with a brush and not have them run down the wall.
Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614
Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.
Mix 1.6 fluid oz. (3 1/4 Tablespoons) of BEE Gone Concentrate per 1 gallon of spray solution to make a 0.5% spray emulsion [1 fluid oz. = 2 Tablespoons (T) = 6 teaspoons (tsp)]. Do not use utensils such as spoons and measuring cups after use with pesticides.
HOW TO APPLY
Spot Treatment
• Apply a 0.5% emulsion as a pin stream low-pressure spray or as a paint-on application with a paintbrush. • Treat where pests are found or entry points of the structure such as window frames, doorways, porches, patios, and foundation. • Spot-treatment may also be made to garages, garbage cans, and garbage areas. • DO NOT apply indoors (including crawl spaces). Perimeter Application • Spray a 6 to 8 foot wide band of soil around the perimeter of the house. Treat the foundation wall to a height of 2 to 3 feet. • Use a spray volume of 2 to 10 gallons of 0.5% emulsion per 1000 square feet. If mulch or debris is present, a higher volume application rate may be needed to ensure adequate coverage. • Note: residual control will vary depending on exposure of the treated area to weathering conditions (temperature, sunlight, moisture). Retreat on a monthly schedule while insects are likely to be active.
Wood Destroying Pests
• Localized Areas Outdoors: for the control of insects such as termites, bees, carpenter ants and wood infesting beetles in localized above-ground areas of infested wood around structures, apply a 0.5% emulsion to voids and galleries in damaged wood and in spaces between wooden members of a structure and between wood and foundations where wood is vulnerable. Apply either as a spray or paint- on application. For termites, the purpose of application is to destroy workers or winged reproductive forms, which may be present at the time of treatment. This product is not designed for preventative use and should only be applied when pests appear. This application is not a substitute for soil or foundation treatment.
• Use a hose-end sprayer or sprinkling can to deliver a coarse drenching spray to treat stored lumber or wood piles. Firewood is not to be treated. Stored wood can be used for lumber one month after treatment. Do not apply inside structures. • Repeat treatment as necessary but not more frequently than once a month. For active termite infestation, consult a professional Pest Control Applicator.
Carpenter Ants can sometimes be a problem if wood remains moist and wood rot occurs. If they are a problem, treat with Tim-bor
or an approved insecticide. Also look for the cause of the moisture and
try to eliminate it. Carpenter ants can enter a building by way of
vegetation that may touch the building. To help prevent this, trim
bushes and trees touching the building and watch for rotting stumps that
could have rotting root systems underground near your building. Insects
do not have to be a problem in your log home. Design your building to
keep moisture away from it so that moist wood does not encourage insect
problems. Stain additives such as Bug Juice or NBS 30 and wood
treatments also help to deter problems.
Borate Insecticide for Carpenter Ants
Borate treatments like Tim-bor, Armor-Guard or Sansin Boracol are best applied to bare wood, as they soak into the wood and kill insects that ingest it as well as protect against rot-causing fungus.
Tim-Bor® Professionalprotects
your log home from invasions of carpenter ants, drywood termites, wood
decay fungi, and wood boring beetles. Tim-Bor Professional’s active
ingredient is Disodium Octaborate Tetrahydrate (DOT), a natural borate
mineral salt and micronutrient. It is manufactured for use in the form
of a water-soluble borate powder. Once Tim-bor is applied in a liquid
form by foaming, misting, or spraying onto wood or other cellulosic
materials, the borate active ingredient creates a protective envelope
and remains for years of protection. Often, Tim-Bor Professional is
dusted into places like wall voids where pests like to hide as an
additional protection. When the dust gets on the insects, they clean
themselves and consume the boron during the cleaning process. Coverage: 200 sq. ft. per gallon. 5 year shelf life.
Armor-Guard
is a 100% powder borate wood preservative that you dissolve in water to
use. Armor-Guard protects uninfested wood from wood decay and wood
destroying insects. Like all borate treatments, your exterior wood
surfaces should be protected with a log home finish to seal in the
borates. Do not apply Armor-Guard over a stain or finish. Armor-Guard
stays near the surface and so should be reapplied if your log home
finish is physically or chemically removed. For a more penetrating
borate treatment for your log home see Shell-Guard RTU.
Sansin Boracol 20-2
is an inorganic, water-diffusible boron wood treatment that uses boric
acid - a natural wood decay inhibitor - to fight fungi and insect
infestations. Moisture is an essential ingredient for mold growth, so
using a water-borne anti-fungal treatment like Sansin Boracol is
particularly effective. The natural moisture of the wood itself carries
the boric acid through the wood fibers to saturate and protect any wet
areas. With a far wider spectrum of activity than conventional
preservatives, it can move deep into timber and even penetrate
heartwood. In addition to organic surfaces such as wood, Boracol works
to prevent mold on inorganic materials like stone or concrete. Sansin
Boracol is effective in preventing and killing dry rot, wet rot, white
rot, fungus, or insect attacks. It is recommended for use on roof, floor
or structural timbers, joinery, joist ends, brickwork, and door and
window framing. Boracol is odorless, non-staining, non-flammable and
easy to apply to both new and existing structures
Stain Additive Insecticides for Carpenter Ants
If there is already a stain or sealer on the log or wood home, then borate insecticides are less of an option. In this situation, it's possible to add insecticide to the finish when adding a new coat of stain or sealer. Bug Juice is one insecticide additive available on the market, and Outlast NBS 30 is an option for a repellent additive.
Bug Juice Stain Additive
is an odorless insecticide designed to eliminate crawling and flying
insects ranging from ants to mosquitoes and cockroaches to silverfish.
Bug Juice stain additive is a contact pesticide that begins to work
after an insect makes contact with the treated finish. Use on interior
and exterior surfaces, including kitchens and pantries.
Bug
Juice will not affect the color or drying time of the coating it’s
mixed with however, it is known to significantly reduce the transparency
and gloss of the clear Lifeline Advance Topcoat.
The finish mixed with Bug Juice must be used within 3 hours if added to
a latex-based (water-based) coating or 6 hours if added to an oil-based
coating. For mixing with oil based finishes, Penetrol is recommended. (BugJuice is not recommended for use with ProLuxe (Sikkens) stains and finishes due to a lack of testing). Bug Juice will last for the life of the coating it is mixed with and is EPA registered.
Outlast NBS 30 is a "Green" Insect Repellent - Naturally Repels: Carpenter Bees, Ants, Cockroaches, Lady Bugs, Dirt Daubers, Wasps, Spiders, Mosquitoes, and other nuisance insects. 100% Derived from Exempt Plant Oils and Components. Mix with Oil or Latex paints/stains or PLAIN WATER
For Exterior Coatings - Deters and inhibit insects
from burrowing through or crawling on exterior coatings and for use in
residential applications as well as dairy
facilities, golf courses,
parks, playgrounds, recreational areas, schools, landscape areas, etc.
Outlast NBS 30 Additive is effective in controlling crawling and nesting
activity on painted or stained surfaces to which it has been added.
Ants, cockroaches, beetles, mites, spiders, fleas, ticks, silverfish,
dirt daubers, bees and wasps will not crawl on, nest on or burrow
through coatings treated with Outlast NBS 30 Additive. Repels nuisance,
nesting insects and discourages Carpenter Ants and Bees from drilling
and reduces ladybug infestations. Safe for pets and people and will not
harm plants (extremely low toxicity). Mixes with oil and water-based
paints and stains. Sheen, curing time and luster of the coating may be
changed slightly by addition of the additive. Color may be affected very
slightly, and would be most noticeable in pure white paint. All natural
ingredients. Outlast NBS 30 is NOT an insect killer and is not intended for control of termites or other wood ingesting insects. Sold in pints
Bait Insecticides for Carpenter Ants
If the wood is not bare for borate application, or no sealer is due to be applied for stain additive insecticides, bait killers are another option. Bait insecticides in the form of granules or gel are often an effective way to eliminate carpenter ants in log homes, as the ants will sense the gel or granule as food and bring it back to share with the colony at the source. Some granules available are Niban and Advance, while Maxforce is a gel form of bait insecticide on the market for protecting log homes and wood homes from damaging insects.
Niban Granule Bait
is a weather resistant granule bait for the control of ants and
carpenter ants. For both interior and exterior use. Niban’s formula
provides broader protection inside and outside the home. Unlike other
granules Niban will not degrade in heat or sunlight and will last
through 4” of rain.Advance Granule Ant Bait
is a larger granule so only the large carpenter ants can manage it.
Special attractants and pellet size make this the most effective
carpenter ant bait on the market. For use inside and outside the home.
Kills Carpenter Ants and many common varieties of household ants such as
Acrobat, Argentine, Bigheaded, Crazy, Field, Fire, Harvester, Lasius,
Little Black, Pavement, Pharaoh, Odorous House and Thief Ants.
Maxforce Carpenter Ant Bait Gel
is the "honeydew" attractant of this sweet gel bait will draw carpenter
ants within minutes. For interior use. Makes about 40 placements. 27
gram container.
Armor-Guard
is a 100% powder borate wood preservative that you dissolve in water to
use. Armor-Guard protects uninfested wood from wood decay and wood
destroying insects. Like all borate treatments, your exterior wood
surfaces should be protected with a log home finish to seal in the
borates. Do not apply Armor-Guard over a stain or finish. Armor-Guard
stays near the surface and so should be reapplied if your log home
finish is physically or chemically removed. For a more penetrating
borate treatment for your log home see Shell-Guard RTU.
Remedial & Preventative Treatment: for remedial
control of organisms attacking wood, apply 10% aqueous solution of
Armor-Guard by brush or spay until surface is thoroughly wet
(approximately 5 gallons of solution per 1000 sq.ft.). Application may
also be made by drilling and then injecting the solution under pressure
into sound wood or until run-off is observed from entry/exit holes of
infested wood. * Alternatively, apply Armor-Guard powder to infested
members by drill and injection into galleries or dust generously on wood
surfaces and in wall voids at a rate of approximately 0.5 ounces (12-14
grams) per square foot.
Pre-Treatment: spray or powder/dust applications of
Armor-Guard may also be made to wood during construction. Apply solution
to all accessible surfaces of bare wood at a rate of approximately 5
gallons per 1000 sq.ft. Application should be performed after framing
and roofing are in place and before insulation and dry wall are
installed. Avoid spaying electrical components. Protect treated wood
from excessive rain. End-cuts of wood may also be treated by spray or
brush methods listed above, or by 5 minute dipping in Armor-Guard
treatment solution.
Armor-Guard Protects Against:
Ambrosia Beetles, Carpenter Ants, False Powder Post Beetles,
Furniture and Deathwatch Beetles, Longhorn Beetles, Old House Borers,
& Powder Post Beetles
Termites: Dampwood, Drywood, & Subterranean
Wood Decay Fungi
Features and Benefits
Can be used on all wood and wood composites
Provides a shell of protection around all treated wood
Will prevent and kill termites, carpenter ants, wood boring beetles and wood rot
Does not affect the color of wood
Does not interfere with the application of high quality wood finishes
Is easy to mix and apply and labeled for home owners to use
EPA approved
Application Temperature: 40° to 90° F. Coverage: Approximately 200 sq. ft. per gal. of mixed solution. A 17 lb. pail covers approximately 3,400 sq. ft. Coats: 1 coat application. Mix 1 pound (4 cups or 2 of the enclosed scoops) of powder with one gallon of water. Surface Prep: Must be clean dry bare wood. Do not apply over a finish. Drying Time: 1-3 days. Clean up: Soap and Water Shelf Life:
5 years; the stability of Armor-Guard in a liquid solution has a
limited life cycle. This is why we recommend to mix up only what you're
going to use and store the powder for later.
Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614
Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744
Rot, weather, insects, fungi all pose a serious threat
to your logs. Protect your investment—treat your logs
first to make them last.
All wood faces the possibility of rot and insect infestation—even in dry climates. Fungi and insects actually
consume the cells of dead wood, often causing severe
structural damage, damage that often requires log
replacement—a costly repair.
Tim-bor® helps protect your home from the costly
damage caused by rot and insect infestation.
What is Tim-bor® ?
Tim-bor® is a borate-based wood preservative.
Borates are well-known across the world for their
protective qualities. And like other borates, Tim-bor®
is highly effective in the prevention of most rot and
wood-boring insects.
When using Tim-bor®, a protective “shell” coating
helps defend your home against dry, wet, and brown rot
as well as termites, house borers, powderpost beetles
and carpenter ants (to name a few).
Tim-bor Professional Borate in 6 gallon and 1.5 pound
The Tim-bor® Difference
Tim-bor® is registered with the Environmental
Protection Agency (EPA) for spray and brush application, which makes it perfect for remedial treatment
when you follow all application and use guidelines.
Do not mix Tim-bor® into stains. For borates to be
effective and to provide long-term protection, they must
soak into the wood itself, not remain in the coating.
Although some stains contain borates, the low percent-
age of borate in the stain (generally 2-3%) provides lit-
tle to no appreciable benefit. Follow the Tim-bor® mix-
ing and application guidelines to achieve recommended
BAE (borate acid equivalent) levels that truly provide
long-term, effective protection.
Tim-bor® can be applied by brushing, spraying,
dipping, kerf-flooding or hole flooding. It comes in
powder form and just needs to be mixed with water for
application. Tim-bor® is packaged in two convenient
sizes: 6-gallon pails that are easy to carry and double as
a handy source for mixing the solution and the 1.5 lb.
packet—perfect for smaller jobs.
The active ingredient in Tim-bor® (disodium octaborate tetrahydrate, a refined form of the natural mineral
borax) is less toxic to people and animals than many
other chemicals used for wood preservation. However,
since no pesticide is completely safe, Tim-bor® must be
handled and used as directed. Borates do not affect the
natural color or strength of wood they are completely
odorless they’re not corrosive to metal fasteners, nails
or screws. And when a “Tim-bor® home” is properly
sealed against moisture, the borates can provide many
years of effective protection.
More Protection for Your Money
The best part about Tim-bor® is the money it saves
you. Not only is Tim-bor® affordable, it reduces the
risk of potential log replacement.
According to the most comprehensive study avail-
able, the depth of penetration of Tim-bor® is as deep or
deeper than other borate products that use slow-drying
and toxic solvents (like ethylene glycol) in their formulations. Contact Sashco at 1-800-767-5656 if you’d like
a copy of this study.
The Basics in Applying Tim-bor®
1. Read this entire Data Tec and the container label
before applying Tim-bor®. It is a violation of Federal
law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with
its labeling.
2. Mix Tim-bor® at a rate of 1-pound (1 loosely packed
quart) to 1-gallon of water.
3. Wood must be clean and bare; free of dirt, wax, mill
glaze and surface finishes, and wood surface temperature above 40̊F.
4. Apply Tim-bor® at the rate of 1 mixed gallon per 150
ft2 of wood surface. Apply a second coat 4 to 24 hours
later. Thoroughly soak cut ends, checks and cracks.
5. Coat the logs with a water-repellent finish after the
Tim-bor® solution has thoroughly dried. Use a moisture meter to verify that the log’s moisture content
doesn’t exceed 19%.
Where to Use Tim-bor®
Use Tim-bor® on above-ground wood surfaces,
including logs, timbers, dimensional lumber, siding, etc.
Wood subject to direct moisture contact must be coated
with a good water-repellent finish after treating with
Tim-bor®.
Surface Preparation
Wood surface must be bare: free of dirt, wax, mill
glaze and surface finishes. Remove all previous coat-
ings by media blasting, sanding, chemical stripping and/
or power washing. Surface discoloration from mold
or mildew should be treated with Sashco’s CPR® Log
Cleaner & Brightener before applying Timbor®. Read
“Keeping the Dream Alive,” Sashco’s complete staining guide, for more detailed instructions on this and the
finishing process.
Do not apply to frozen wood. Log (not air) temperature must be between 40̊F and 90̊F. It is best to apply
Tim-bor® to dry wood.
Mixing Tim-bor®
Mix at the rate of one pound, or loosely packed quart,
to one gallon of water. The Tim-bor® mixture requires
only mild stirring before application. The mixture will
be clear and water thin.
With this mixture, all application methods described
herein will yield a minimum retention level of 0.24
pounds per cubic foot boric acid equivalent to 1/2”.
Methods of Application
Tim-bor® may be applied by brushing, spraying
(with a garden sprayer), dipping, kerf-flooding or hole
flooding. Full immersion dipping yields the deepest and
most complete protection, especially with large logs.
Kerf-flooding accompanied with brushing or spraying,
yields nearly the same level of protection as dipping.
Brushing and spraying can completely penetrate dimensional lumber and can provide excellent “shell” protection for timbers and logs to a depth of 1/8” to 1/2” —
which is adequate for most applications.
NOTE: Diffusion of Tim-bor® into the wood begins
immediately and requires several days for completion.
With “shell” protection in large logs or timber, pre-existing insect larva may not be killed. Upon maturing,
they may emerge from the wood. Insects must ingest
the substance to be killed. Tim-bor® is not a contact
killer. Further insect infestations, however, will be prevented.
Brushing or Spraying
Apply Tim-bor® at a rate of 1 mixed gallon per 150
ft2 of wood surface. Apply a second coat 4 to 24 hours
later. Thoroughly soak cut ends and apply to checks and
cracks.
Kerf-Flooding,
Hole Flooding,
and Spraying/
Brushing
Logs 9” in diameter
and larger are often kerfed to control unwanted
checking. When kerfing
a log in the shape of a trough (with 3/8” wide chain saw
to a depth of 3”), simply pour the Tim-bor® solution
into the kerf. Fill the kerf at a rate of 15 to 20 lineal feet
per mixed gallon. Let soak. It will take 1 to 2 days for
the logs to absorb all the liquid.
Protection may also be
gained by pouring powdered
Tim-bor® into the kerf (0.2
to 0.3 pounds per lineal foot).
Pour water into the kerf to
dissolve and carry the Tim-bor® into the wood.
Brush or spray the exterior
of the logs with more Tim-bor® after either of these
methods as described above.
NOTE: Be sure the kerf or
holes do not affect the structural strength of the log.
HINT: Runoff from vertical walls may be contained
by using plastic sheeting to form an accumulation
basin. The trapped liquid may then be recycled and will
be prevented from injuring nearby foliage.
Dipping
Dip logs or lumber in Tim-bor® for 6 to 10 minutes, depending on log diameter. Let excess liquid
drain back into the tank, dip again 24 hours later. Cover
wood with a tarp or place in a shed for at least 48 hours
prior to coating with a good exterior finish.
After Applying Tim-bor®
Treated wood must be protected from direct contact
with moisture or the active ingredient may leach out.
It’s best to wait at least 48 hours (in warm, dry weather;
longer in cool, humid weather) after applying Tim-bor®
to coat wood with a water-repellent finish. Let the surface thoroughly dry and brush away any crystals that
appear before staining. Use a moisture meter to verify
that the logs’ moisture content doesn’t exceed 19%.
Clean Up
Use soap and water to clean equipment, skin and
clothing.
Please download the Tim-bor®
full info sheet for details on:
• Storage and Disposal
• First Aid
• Enviromental Hazards
• Warranty
www.sashco.com/timbor-sds-info
Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614
Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744
For Log
Homes, the large carpenter bees or Xylocopa do the most damage, boring
approximately 1/2" diameter tunnels into logs and other wood surfaces
including decks, overhangs, fence rails, etc. Carpenter Bee tunnels
become a threat for infestation of wood-decaying fungi or other insects,
such as carpenter ants.
Treatments: Insecticidal sprays and dusts such as
those included in the Carpenter Bee Kit are available. These types of
products may need to be applied every couple of weeks for awhile to
ensure effectiveness. Apply them at night while the hive is asleep for
maximum impact. Beware that some insecticides have been banned but not
yet removed from store shelves. Consider the potential health risks of
using such poisons in your home (young children are the most
susceptible). If you have an exterminator do the job professionally,
find out what they are using and if those insecticides have been banned
in your area. If you are having or have had problems with Carpenter
bees, consider adding NBS 30 to your finish when you recoat your house
again. If chemicals aren't your bag, you can give the kids a project
with a couple of fly swatters. The males don't sting and the females are
known to be more reluctant to stinging, unlike other bees, wasps, and
hornets
However you choose to rid your logs of carpenter bees, consider spraying Tim-bor
or Shell Guard RTU in the tunnels afterwards to help guard against
wood-decaying fungi. Just mix up some Tim-bor in a spray bottle, pump
sprayer, or squeeze bottle and administer it into the holes. Also, be
sure to seal off the tunnel entrances by pounding in wooden dowels or by
using Caulking, wood putty, or by mixing WoodEpox and sawdust.
Protect
Your Home with BEE Gone® Insecticide Concentrate for Control Against
Carpenter Bees and other Wood-destroying Insects like Bark Beetles and
Carpenter Ants. Also use for Spiders, Ticks, Wasps, and many
other insects! Guard against those damaging and destructive outdoor
pests with BEE Gone®, an EPA-registered pyrethroid insecticide. Around
your home and residential outbuildings, it effectively controls
carpenter bees and other wood-destroying insects. For easy spray-on
application, BEE Gone also mixes readily with water. Available in a
convenient 8 oz. bottle that mixes with a 5 gallon pail of water to
spray with a garden pump sprayer. See Directions for full details. Made in the USA. Bee Gone Directions | SDS
EPA-registered and effective pyrethroid insecticide.
Controls carpenter bees and wood-destroying insects.
Works as a perimeter treatment for outdoor pests around residential buildings.
Can be easily mixed with water for spraying.
Designed for wooden structural surfaces on home’s exterior.
For outdoor homeowner use only.
Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744
For Log Homes, the large carpenter bees or Xylocopa do the
most damage, boring approximately 1/2" diameter tunnels into logs and
other wood surfaces including decks, overhangs, fence rails, etc.
Carpenter Bee tunnels become a threat for infestation of wood-decaying
fungi or other insects, such as carpenter ants.
Treatments: Insecticidal sprays and dusts such as those
included in the Carpenter Bee Kit are available. These types of
products may need to be applied every couple of weeks for awhile to
ensure effectiveness. Liquid spray concentrates like Bee-Gone are diluted in water, and then applied to the structures with a pump-style garden sprayer. Apply them at night while the hive is asleep for
maximum impact. Beware that some insecticides have been banned but not
yet removed from store shelves. Consider the potential health risks of
using such poisons in your home (young children are the most
susceptible). If you have an exterminator do the job professionally,
find out what they are using and if those insecticides have been banned
in your area. If you are having or have had problems with Carpenter bees, consider adding NBS 30 to your finish when you recoat your house
again. If chemicals aren't your bag, you can give the kids a project
with a couple of fly swatters. The males don't sting and the females are
known to be more reluctant to stinging, unlike other bees, wasps, and
hornets.
However you choose to rid your logs of carpenter bees, consider spraying Tim-bor
or Shell Guard RTU in the tunnels afterwards to help guard against
wood-decaying fungi. Just mix up some Tim-bor in a spray bottle, pump
sprayer, or squeeze bottle and administer it into the holes. Also, be
sure to seal off the tunnel entrances by pounding in wooden dowels or by
using Caulking, wood putty, or by mixing WoodEpox and sawdust.
For Log Homes, the large carpenter bees or Xylocopa do
the most damage, boring approximately 1/2" diameter tunnels into logs
and other wood surfaces including decks, overhangs, fence rails, etc.
Carpenter Bee tunnels become a threat for infestation of wood-decaying
fungi or other insects, such as carpenter ants.
Treatments: Insecticidal sprays and dusts such as those
included in the Carpenter Bee Kit are available. These types of
products may need to be applied every couple of weeks for awhile to
ensure effectiveness. Apply them at night while the hive is asleep for
maximum impact. Beware that some insecticides have been banned but not
yet removed from store shelves. Consider the potential health risks of
using such poisons in your home (young children are the most
susceptible). If you have an exterminator do the job professionally,
find out what they are using and if those insecticides have been banned
in your area. If you are having or have had problems with Carpenter
bees, consider adding NBS 30 to your finish when you recoat your house
again. If chemicals aren't your bag, you can give the kids a project
with a couple of fly swatters. The males don't sting and the females are
known to be more reluctant to stinging, unlike other bees, wasps, and
hornets.
However you choose to rid your logs of carpenter bees, consider spraying Tim-bor
or Shell Guard RTU in the tunnels afterwards to help guard against
wood-decaying fungi. Just mix up some Tim-bor in a spray bottle, pump
sprayer, or squeeze bottle and administer it into the holes. Also, be
sure to seal off the tunnel entrances by pounding in wooden dowels or by
using Caulking, wood putty, or by mixing WoodEpox and sawdust.
Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614
Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744
I've been getting a lot of calls recently from log home owners having woodpecker problems. I don't know if it's mere coincidence they are all calling about it now or if there is something in their biological cycle making them more active this year. Either way, woodpeckers are not an issue unique to log homes. My in-laws have a painted wood-sided home and one over-ambitious woodpecker managed to make a hole all the way through the interior drywall. Yikes. What a nosy and noisy fella. Personally, I love watching birds- especially the pileated woodpeckers. But it can be frustrating when they come and start perforating your home.
So what is one to do when Woody comes whacking on your wall and puts a hole in your log? Unfortunately, there aren't any miracle solutions of which I'm aware, but there are a few things you can try. First, let's look at why woodpeckers bang their heads against wood in the first place. Without asking them directly, one can assume a woodpecker is soliciting your home for one of three reasons: looking for food, looking for shelter, or sending out social cues.
Feeding
A common motivation for woodpeckers pecking on trees is to reach insects, larvae, and other food. If woodpeckers are pecking at your home, it may be a sign that they see it as an open buffet. Maybe there is an issue with insects in the wood. In that case, treatment with a borate preservative like ArmorGuard, PeneTreat, or ShellGuard RTU, or a contact insecticide like Bug Juice or Viper may be the way to go.
Nesting
Woodpeckers will also go to work on
an old tree to excavate a nesting cavity. This is when the most damage is done, in an effort to hollow out a home, in which case they could destroy yours in the process. Fortunately, this typically doesn't seem to be the motivation for the birds when they are pounding on someone's house-- at least, not by my experience.
Mating and/or Territorial
Sometimes woodpeckers are just making noise to let others know they're around. They drum on trees, homes, and even telephone poles to send a message-- either an invitation or a warning.
Remedies
I am still searching for that miracle cure for woodpeckers to keep them off one's house-- until then there are a few things that can be tried. As mentioned earlier, if the woodpeckers are going after food, then eradication of wood-boring insects from the home might help deter the birds. Also hanging suet and giving them a different food source could help.
If the woodpeckers aren't tapping your home for food, then they might be pounding for mating or territorial reasons. This can make it difficult to deter them. There are a number of things that have been tried:
-Repelling them with chemical smells such as 'moth balls.'
-Scaring them visually with owl statues, spinning/flashing objects like foil, pie plates, pinwheels and other objects; or scaring them with sound such as banging pots or clapping hands when they are seen. Unfortunately, visual objects to scare them can have aesthetic drawbacks on your home, and scaring with sound requires you to catch them in the act to shoo them off.
-Blocking them with bird netting under the eaves or wire mesh directly on the surface is another option to keep them off the home. Unfortunately, this can also have aesthetic drawbacks.
We are still searching for that miracle cure that will let you enjoy the birds without having them destroy your home. The good news is... the damage is fairly easy to repair.
Repairing the Damage
Whether a solution is found to keep the woodpeckers off your home or not, if they were there it's likely there may be a bit of damage to repair. Fortunately, this is the easy part. Wood replacement putty epoxies like WoodEpox or E-Wood can be mixed and packed into the holes for a quick repair. Adding some pigment to the two-part epoxies while they are still malleable can help to blend to the surrounding wood so that the patch is undetectable from a distance. In the case of painted wood homes, the putty can be painted over for a completely seamless patch.
If you have any other questions about woodpeckers or other repairs to make to your home, give us a call at 1-800-359-6614 or email at info@loghelp.com Or if by chance you have found that miracle cure to repel woodpeckers from your logs, please let me know so we can help other homeowners!
-Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc 'Your Log Home Hardware Store'
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