Tuesday, April 15, 2025

Transformation Log & Timber Faster Dry Formula and New Colors


New from Sashco:

Jim the Stain Guy (aka the Senior Chemist in charge of stains) put several years of work into this improved Transformation Log & Timber formula to speed up the dry time so that the second coat can now be applied the next day, rather than waiting 24-48 hours. Two separate field tests with product applied to 18 different homes and in a variety of weather and humidity conditions confirm this. Those field testers and Sashco are confident that this new formula will improve jobsite turn times and reduce labor costs.
Updated formula pails have a green sticker on them.

 

 

 

 

Transformation Log & Timber New Colors:

 Brown Tone Gray

Finally! A gray for Transformation. Beautiful antiqued look, wonderfully modern protection. 

Brown Tone Neutral

Free of yellow and red undertones, but still with the Transformation Log & Timber gorgeous gloss and
transparency.

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 


Monday, April 14, 2025

Mixing and Using BEE Gone for Carpenter Bee Control

HOME-INVADING PESTS (OUTDOOR USE ONLY)


MIXING INSTRUCTIONS

Mix 1.6 fluid oz. (3 1/4 Tablespoons) of BEE Gone Concentrate per 1 gallon of spray solution to make a
0.5% spray emulsion [1 fluid oz. = 2 Tablespoons (T) = 6 teaspoons (tsp)]. Do not use utensils such as
spoons and measuring cups after use with pesticides.


HOW TO APPLY

Spot Treatment

• Apply a 0.5% emulsion as a pin stream low-pressure spray or as a paint-on application with a paintbrush.
• Treat where pests are found or entry points of the structure such as window frames, doorways,
porches, patios, and foundation.
• Spot-treatment may also be made to garages, garbage cans, and garbage areas.
• DO NOT apply indoors (including crawl spaces).
Perimeter Application
• Spray a 6 to 8 foot wide band of soil around the perimeter of the house. Treat the foundation wall to
a height of 2 to 3 feet.
• Use a spray volume of 2 to 10 gallons of 0.5% emulsion per 1000 square feet. If mulch or debris is
present, a higher volume application rate may be needed to ensure adequate coverage.
• Note: residual control will vary depending on exposure of the treated area to weathering conditions
(temperature, sunlight, moisture). Retreat on a monthly schedule while insects are likely to be active.
 

Wood Destroying Pests

• Localized Areas Outdoors: for the control of insects such as termites, bees, carpenter ants and wood
infesting beetles in localized above-ground areas of infested wood around structures, apply a 0.5%
emulsion to voids and galleries in damaged wood and in spaces between wooden members of a structure and between wood and foundations where wood is vulnerable. Apply either as a spray or paint-
on application. For termites, the purpose of application is to destroy workers or winged reproductive
forms, which may be present at the time of treatment. This product is not designed for preventative
use and should only be applied when pests appear. This application is not a substitute for soil or foundation treatment.


• Use a hose-end sprayer or sprinkling can to deliver a coarse drenching spray to treat stored lumber
or wood piles. Firewood is not to be treated. Stored wood can be used for lumber one month after
treatment. Do not apply inside structures.
• Repeat treatment as necessary but not more frequently than once a month. For active termite infestation, consult a professional Pest Control Applicator.

https://www.loghelp.com/products/bee-gone-insecticide-concentrate.asp 


Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614


 

Friday, March 28, 2025

The Great Lakes Jack

We are excited to introduce the Great Lakes Jack.The Great Lakes Jack was jointly designed by members of the Great Lakes Log Crafters Association, along with Aeshe Engineering. The Great Lakes Jack has a 1” threaded rod mounted to a 3/8” steel plate with a nut acting as the height adjuster, and another 3/8” steel plate welded on top of the nut. The bottom plate of the screw jack is anchored to the foundation through two 1/2" holes. The top plate is anchored to the bottom of the vertical log post with four 3/8" structural screws. The threaded rod passes through a hole in the center of the top plate as shown and into a pre-drilled recess in the log. Unlike other settling jack designs, the nut is welded to the top plate of the Great Lakes Jack. This aids in resisting uplift, but as such it's necessary to remove the anchor screws from the upper plate while vertical adjustments are made. Corrosion resistant coating should be applied before installation. Allowable net uplift is 900LBS, and Vertical downward force is tested to 20,000LBS.

A portion of proceeds from this jack go to the Great Lakes Log Crafters Association and help to fund their education and promotion of excellence in handcrafted log building. The Great Lakes Log Crafters Association meets annually for education, demonstration, and camaraderie of all things related to log craft. In 2025, the conference will be meeting April 25-26 at Gateway Lodge in Land O’ Lakes Wisconsin. Some of the many topics presented will be Net Zero Log Home: Purdue University Ross Reserve; Stihl Chainsaw and Milwaukee Tool Demonstrations; Wood Treating With Lake Country Log and Cedar; Wisconsin Building Codes; and Robotic Solutions, Inc- Software for log and timber manufacturing demonstration. Registration is open to all members and non-members who are interested in learning more about all aspects in the craft of log construction.

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

Monday, January 6, 2025

Sansin Announces Color of the Year 2025 - Ivory 21

Sansin has announced the 2025 color of the year: Ivory 21.

Ivory 21 enhances the natural beauty of wood and brightens up any space. This versatile white hue works with any aesthetic – from timeless traditional to Nordic minimalist and coastal tranquil.

MJMA | Scott Norsworthy

“Natural, translucent colors like Ivory are trending as building owners, contractors, and architects seek finishes that protect the wood while highlighting its personality and allowing the character of the wood to shine through.”

Sjoerd Bos, Managing Director – Sansin Corporation

 

Ivory is available in several of Sansin’s environmentally friendly and low VOC premium wood protection systems, including:


https://www.loghelp.com/products/sansin.asp

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

Thursday, December 19, 2024

What is the R-Value of a Log Wall?


  1. Wood has a thermal transmission factor, called k. It is used in calculations to generate the R-value of an assembly, but only certified insulation products have specific R-values. The U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) rates an Eastern White Pine log at R-1.42 per inch which might mean an 8” log would be R-11.4, but that’s not the whole story.

  1. Home Energy Raters do not take into account the thermal mass value of a solid wood assembly.

  1. The DOE has issued a grant to Oak Ridge National Laboratory (ORNL) and the International Mass Timber Alliance (IMTA) to research the energy conserving properties of mass timber. Mass timber can be solid wood like logs and timbers, or laminated wood like glue-lam beams and cross-laminated timber panels.

  1. Work done at the ORNL in Tennessee has proven the following:

    1. A 7- inch thick mass timber wall is 22% more efficient than a stick built structure with R-19 insulation.

    1. Improved thermal comfort with thermal mass (up to 46% fewer uncomfortable hours due to convective air flow). Thermal comfort is the condition of mind that expresses subjective satisfaction with the thermal environment.

  • Lightweight assemblies (stick built structures) respond over a short time to temperature changes both inside and outside.

  • Mass assemblies (Log, concrete, brick) respond slowly to changes not only in temperature, but relative humidity. Since mass absorbs and radiates heat and humidity, it tempers the indoor environment.

    1. Peak demand was up to 50% lower with mass wood depending on the month and location.

An example of peak demand is everyone coming home from work at the same time and turning the air conditioning on.

  1. IMTA efforts are continuing as they are building three pairs of 3-meter cubes, one stick built and one of mass timber.

A pair of cubes are set up in Tennessee with more in Texas, and Colorado to replicate a more operational environment.

Over a 2- year period, constant temperature monitoring will take place. The data from these cubes will be used to prove the computer simulations used to design the cubes. The simulations will then be used to generate new thermal codes for mass timber walls.


 

The IMTA is a not-for-profit, charitable organization that promotes Mass Wood Construction and sustainability, energy efficiency, low embodied energy, and carbon sequestration, by the following engagements.

  • Identifying barriers which challenge the use of mass wood construction in residential and commercial applications.
  • Pursuing scientific research and testing in collaboration with post secondary institutions, government, and non-governmental organizations.
  • Disseminating data pertinent to the development of building codes and energy standards that reflect woods value proposition.

 

Monday, August 26, 2024

Sansin Dec Finish

 

Sansin Dec Finish is a two-coat, specially designed formulation for decks, docks, and balconies. The modified natural oils in Sansin Dec Finish penetrate deep into the wood with the kind of variable moisture content frequently found in decks. Although high in solids, the Sansin Dec Finish formula does not leave a thick film on the surface but remains breathable and easy to maintain. Provides excellent UV and weather protection and will not crack, peel, or blister. It is the natural solution for maintaining the beautiful aesthetics found in wood. Made in Canada.

PREPARATION IS KEY TO A SUCCESSFUL PROJECT

• Inspect wood surfaces for defects and make any necessary repairs.
• Use Sansin cleaner and/or wash the entire surface with a minimum 3000 PSI pressure washer use clean water.
• Sand the surface well using a 60-80 grit paper and a variable speed orbital sander.
• Follow by power washing, vacuuming or using compressed air for proper cleaning. Surface must be clean, free from dust, dirt, grease, wax or any existing coatings.

APPLICATION METHODS

• Always flood the surface to the point of saturation
• Dipping
• Brushing
• Flood coating
• Spraying – hand or automated spraying (low pressure or airless)

WORKING PROCEDURE

• Stir well before and during the application process.
• Test formula on an inconspicuous wood surface to ensure proper color and penetration.
• Apply in proper conditions: Ideal temperature of 21°C (70°F) and relative humidity of approximately 50%
• Do not apply if rain or near freezing temperatures are expected.
• Saturate the wood surface.
• Brush out any puddles and runs and level the finish.
• Do not apply on wood that is warm to touch.
• Do not apply in direct sunlight.
• Continually check the surface; wipe up all puddles and brush out runs. 

MAINTENANCE

Horizontal surfaces require maintenance every 1-4 years. Maintenance is necessary when the surface shows signs of wear, such as fading or erosion. Maintaining your wood on a regular basis will ensure
long-lasting color retention, exceptional dimensional stabilization and effective water repellency. Periodically, clean the wood surface with a power washer or Sansin Multi-Wash to remove dirt and residue. How frequently maintenance coats are required will depend on the quality of prior preparation, quality of application and exposure levels. If fading or erosion is evident, prepare wood by using a power washer to lightly clean the wood surface; or use Sansin Multi-Wash. Then re-apply one maintenance coat of Sansin DEC according to instructions. Exposure, workmanship and color will affect the performance of the coating.

STORAGE

Shelf life when stored in ideal conditions is 18 months. Store at a temperature of between + 10ºC and + 30ºC (50ºF and 86ºF).
Keep containers tightly closed.

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

Sansin DEC Deck Finish & Topcoat

Thursday, August 22, 2024

Log Home Caulking, Chinking, & Sealing FAQs

 Can I stain before caulking or chinking?

When applying water-based caulk and chinking like Conceal, Energy Seal, Log Builder caulking, Log Jam chinking, or Perma-Chink, and using a water based stain, it may be applied before of after staining. If using oil-based finishes like NatureColor Base or Recoater, Woodguard, or WR-5:
1. Apply caulk or chinking over one coat, and then apply a second coat of finish the following year.
2. Wait at least 21 days after staining before caulking or chinking to allow for cure time. (Paraffinic oils like in X-100 can cause adhesion failures.)

Do I need backer rod?

Yes, if chink joints are greater than 1/4". See Backer Rod and Chinking.

What does the temperature need to be to apply caulk or chinking?

See "Surface Preparation".

What can I use to smooth out my caulking or chinking?

People use various kinds of "tooling" devices. The most popular would probably be a spatula of some sort at the desired width. Some people use a cake spatula if an industrial one is not available. Butter knives, rubber spatulas, and foam brushes have also been used.

How do I prevent blisters from forming in log home caulk and chinking?

Click here for details.

I have flat on flat logs, what do I put between them?

There are a couple of alternatives to put in between logs for a flat on flat system:

1. The first is to lay a bead of adhesive caulking on each side of the log; see Conceal or Woodsman Caulking.
2. The other alternative is a product called LogSeal. Some of the features of LogSeal are sealing against water, cold, heat, light and noise. LogSeal has adhesive on one side with an easy-release protective liner, providing fast and easy placement during construction. LogSeal provides easy application for flat on flat and saddle notch systems. When using for flat on flat construction, lay one line of LogSeal on the outer edge and one line on the inner edge.

Do I need to caulk after using LogSeal?

Yes. It is always important to seal the exterior side with log home caulk or chinking to keep moisture (in the form of rain or splash-back) out from the log joints. The log caulking also helps to keep insects from working their way in.

Should I buy a 5-gallon pail or tubes?

Economically, it is better to buy a 5-gallon pail; however you don't start saving money until you purchase two 5-gallon pails because of the cost of tools for pail application. A 5-gallon pail is equivalent to twenty-two 29 oz. tubes. It will also depend on what the you feel comfortable with, caulking tubes or a bulk loading gun.

If I buy a 5-gallon pail, how do I get it into my caulk gun?

By using a Follow Plate.

How do I clean and take care of my Albion bulk loading gun?

See "Care of Albion Bulk Loading Guns".

How to Prevent Blisters in Caulk and Chinking

Occasionally, blistering of a chinked or caulked surface occurs. A chinked area is more susceptible to blistering due to the larger joint size. After several years of investigation, Sashco Sealants has uncovered most or all of the causes* of this problem and can recommend ways to prevent it.* At first it was thought that the chinking itself was to blame. But the facts do not support this. For example:

  •  The same batch of product has blistered on one log and not on another.
  •  It is common to find blisters on one side of a house and not the other.
  •  Blisters occur above a certain point on a wall and not below it.
  •  Some blisters appear to be random on a chinking line and others are in a straight row.
  •  Blisters often reappear in the same place when repaired with the same batch of chinking or even with a different batch.

The Causes are Site related and not product or batch related.

Causes of Blisters: The basic cause of any blister is a build-up of gas between the log, the backing surface, and the chinking or caulking. It occurs during The early curing stages when The chinking is soft but has a skin formed on the surface. Heat usually in the form of direct sunlight causes the gas to expand. As the gas expands, it pushes the chinking out, causing a "bubble" or blister. This gas comes from water, wood sap, or even backing material.

What Circumstances Create the Gas? Trapped Water Vapor. As chinking and caulking dries, it gives off water vapor. Any physical condition which traps the resulting water vapor could cause a blister, especially if the logs and chinking are heated by direct sunlight here are some things that could trap this vapor.

  • Cracks or indentations in foam or polyethylene backer rod which doesn't go all the way through. Even tiny spaces can trap enough vapor to create a blister big enough to see.
  • Air bubble trapped during the application process against non-porous backer material.
  • Dead-end crack in wood where moisture vapor can accumulate and expand when heated. (This, most likely, is the most wide-spread cause.)

Note Manus-Bond Caulking is not affected by water vapor in the same as other caulking or chinking because it is a polyurethane. Moisture makes it set up faster and will not generally cause blistering.

.

blisters forming

blisters on day 1 and day 2

Backing Material Backer rod out-gassing. Closed cell backer rod has a puncture and is squeezed by expanding logs. The gas used to make the rod forces a blister in the chinking and caulking.

On Day 1 the backer rod and sealant are applied in the cool part of the day. On Day 2 the sun comes out and heats the logs. This causes the backer rod to be squeezed, and forces a small amount of gas in the backer rod to leave the rod at a rupture or weak spot and make a blister in the sealant. The phenomenon has been known to occur in the caulk and sealant industry for many years and occurs randomly and unpredictably.

Backer Rod Blister

Blister from Pitch PocketPitch Pockets Logs often have what is termed "pitch pockets." These are areas of concentrated pitch, or sap, sometimes containing several gallons! (Pitch pockets of 50 or more gallons are known!) This sap (or its vapor) will follow cracks in logs, coming out of the log almost anywhere. It especially exits at the knots Where the sap flow was directed during the life of the tree. Sap has a volatile component and, when heated, forms a gas that causes blisters. Some blisters appear to be in the dead center of the chinking/ caulking. Upon close investigation, however, most or all of the bubbles are connected to a crack in the log surface. The blisters are often the result of sap vapor, which can come through the tiniest of holes in the wood. Pitch pockets are often the cause of blisters, which line up in a straight row. They are simply aligned with the crack in the log along which the sap is traveling. In the heat of direct sunlight some of the liquid sap in the pitch pocket turns into a gas that is under pressure and can form a blister as it tries to escape the log.

Prevention of Blisters Some of these causes cannot be controlled. Two factors can be partially controlled - heat and backer rod selection/preparation. Since heat normally is responsible for turning undetected gas into unsightly blisters, it makes sense to control this element as much as possible. Once the chinking and caulking has become firm, it can then resist the low pressure from the water or sap vapor and the blisters can then be prevented.

Control the Heat to Prevent Blisters

Control the Heat:

  • Chink or caulk on the shady, cool side.
  • Protect walls from direct sunlight for a few days by covering with a light colored tarp, cloth or plastic. Leave plenty of room for ventilation. It is important to cover the logs as well as the chinking and caulking so the entire surface will stay cool.
  • Stain logs first. This can help to close some pitch pocket holes before chinking and caulking.
  • Although rare, it is possible for excessive heat to build up inside a log home during the early curing stage and cause blisters. If this could occur, make sure windows and doors are left open to allow cool air to ventilate the interior.

Control the Backing Material:

  • Use blunt tools to install closed cell backing materials, being careful to avoid puncturing or denting.
  • Open cell backer rod** may be used in place of closed cell backer rod. These backer rods will not generate gas and they can help dissipate any gas originating from another source. **The weakness of this type of backer rod is that it is more susceptible to absorbing moisture if the chinking or caulking is ruptured and driving rain is forced through to the backer rod.
  • When chinking and caulking over flat insulation (styrofoam, bead board or foil-faced foam board), surface cracks, holes, or dents should be covered with a high quality sticky mylar tape, 2" wide preferably. (The tape will tend to prevent as much as 80% of the blisters that would otherwise form.) Extruded styrene foam (such as Dow Chemical's blue "Styrofoam") has a greater tendency to cause blisters than white bead board or foil-faced urethane foam.
  • Fixing a BlisterA fresh blister can sometimes be eliminated by puncturing the surface skin (to let the moisture vapor escape) and pushing the chinking and caulking back into place. This step can cause marring of the chinking finish, but can be smoothed out 2-3 days later (after the chinking has firmed up) with a small amount of Log Jam applied and smoothed. Often the blister will not reappear. To be effective, this action must be taken within the first day after application, while the underlying chinking and caulking is still wet This method can be the most effective and efficient since the blisters are caught very early (before they become very large) and repaired quickly.
  • More thoroughly cured blisters must be cut off flush and the cavity filled approximately one-fourth to one-half full and allowed to dry. If the cause of the original blister is still present, then it will push the fresh chinking and caulking out into a shallow blister below the surface of the surrounding chinking/ caulking. This may be allowed to dry and a second application, blending with the surrounding chinking, will complete the repair. (See the drawings.)
  • If you can cover a crack or hole with mylar tape, only one repair step is needed. Chinking and caulking can be installed flush with the surrounding material.

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Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

 

Transformation Log & Timber Faster Dry Formula and New Colors

New from Sashco: Jim the Stain Guy (aka the Senior Chemist in charge of stains) put several years of work into this improved Transformation ...