Wednesday, January 27, 2021

Indelible Ink Pencil


 The Sanford NOBLOT Ink Pencils have been discontinued but have been now replaced with this indelible successor. The lead writes as if it were ordinary smooth dark grey graphite lead, but it is indelible. In fact, it is a seductively smooth-writing "graphite" pencil, and you must be careful to separate it from regular graphite pencils. If you write very lightly and erase very carefully with a vinyl eraser in a dry environment, the markings will erase. The indelibility is due to the dyeing of the surface written upon, which is "fixed" by writing firmly, by the rubbing action of mechanical erasure, and further intensified by dampening or exposure to humid environments (your "hot, foggy" breath close to the markings will do). To assist you in keeping this lead away from anything you do not want permanently marked, we supply a point protector with each pencil.

This lead does not break as easily as our Veritas indelible pencil leads, but a little more easily than the Sanford Noblot pencil did. The aniline dye component weakens the lead slightly as compared with usual clay/graphite leads. The Select™ Indelible pencil writes more darkly and with a slightly broader line than the Noblot did. We suggest sharpening it to a short point, rather than a long one. The body is round, which assists you in continuously turning the pencil during use to keep the lead pointed. Sold individually.

Made in the USA.

https://www.loghelp.com/products/indelible-pencil-sanford-noblot-replacement.asp

Monday, January 4, 2021

LogSeal Foam Tape

LogSeal Foam Tape is the original and still largest brand of Foam Gaskets to the Log Building Industry. More than 36 years of experience has gone into providing the best gaskets available. LogSeal foam tape is manufactured using closed cell materials, which prevent virtually all moisture absorption and air infiltration.



LogSeal closed cell gasket has the following features: 

1. Excellent seal against water, cold, heat, light, and noise.

2. Excellent recovery characteristics. 

3. Perpetual seal during drying, settling, and continued log movement.

4. Excellent resistance to ultraviolet light. 

5. Adhesive on one side, with an easy-release protective liner. 

6. Easy application with a wide variety of log joint designs, including tongue and groove, splined and gasket, and saddle notch. 

Physical Properties: 

Color - Brown 

Gauge - 1/4" x 1/2", 3/8" x 1/2


 

 

 

 

 

Friday, October 23, 2020

Wood Finish & Treatment Decisions For Lasting Log Home Protection

 By Sjoerd Bos, Managing Director at Sansin  

Whether you currently own a log home or are purchasing or building one, you no doubt appreciate the enduring beauty of wood and the log home aesthetic. To protect your investment and ensure your home stands the test of time, you will want to protect it from dirt, moisture, UV exposure and other handling damage. This means wood treatment and finishing are critical decisions. Rather than choosing a coating that creates a non-breathable, waxy film on top of the wood, there are water-borne finish options that deeply penetrate into the logs, allowing water to evaporate and preventing moisture from getting trapped and rotting the logs from within. 

For more than 30 years, the Sansin Corporation has been exclusively dedicated to the development of enviro-friendly, water-borne wood finish technologies that make wood beautiful, durable and easy-to- maintain. Sansin’s wood coatings utilize a unique water-borne alkyd formula that combines the benefits of both oil- and water-based coatings but in a formula with much lower VOC (volatile organic compounds) levels. Additionally, rather than using toxic dyes in the colorant system, Sansin utilizes nano technology to create pure pigments ground so fine that they deliver remarkably vibrant, uniform and long-lasting color. Because the finishes don’t form a film on top of the wood, the coatings won’t crack, chip or peel. Water-borne finishes also dry faster, allowing additional coats to be applied in one day rather than waiting a day or two between coats. When properly applied, the coatings offer superior UV protection and lasting durability that enables log home owners to extend the time between maintenance coats.

Sansin SDF is the company’s most versatile exterior finish and, in addition to log home restoration projects, works well on decks, docks, siding and fences. SDF’s specially-formulated oils and resins penetrate into the wood, creating a monolithic bond for outstanding weather and UV protection that won’t crack, peel or blister. SDF can be used on horizontal and vertical wood surfaces and is available in a wide range of natural, semi-transparent and even solid colors. Because SDF is designed to be highly water-repellent, it’s a natural choice for log homes in moisture-rich environments. SDF Topcoat offers additional durability and superior water repellency using a semi-film forming finish. SDF Topcoat is great for surfaces where water splash-back causes discoloration due to moisture intrusion or frequent wetting.When it comes to protecting wood during construction, Sansin Foundation, a nearly invisible penetrating base coat, is simply the best way to protect logs from damage during construction. Just give the wood a light cleaning, and then you can also use it as a base coat for Classic or SDF, creating those lighter, more natural tones but with built-in UV protection. Foundation penetrates into the wood, creating dimensional stability while reducing checks and wood movement. It is available in three tones that complement the wood species of fir, cedar and lightwood.

 Look no further than Sansin Timber-Tec for your in-yard protection. Timber-Tec is an industrial grade product that protects from UV degradation, blue stain and repels water (helping wood dry), and it also mitigates wood discoloration during the construction process. Timber-Tec can be applied to green or seasoned logs, improving dimensional stability and allowing wood to adjust gradually to moisture levels in the environment. It comes in in two formula options. M-30 provides the natural light color of fresh pine while C-20 is a clear concentrate that provides a light honey color to the wood after it dries.

Tuesday, August 25, 2020

Something to Blush About

Did your recently applied clear coat turn hazy white?

During the cooler shoulder seasons of spring and early fall, and even throughout the summer, we occasionally get concern. Water-based finishes can be sensitive to cool, wet weather. If dew or rain get onto a finish before it has fully dried or cured, there can be a startling effect called blushing. Blushing is a white appearance in the finish that happens when water reacts with an uncured finish. It will disappear and turn clear again when the finish dries and cures, but that could take a few warm, dry days. In some extreme situations it has taken several weeks for the blushing to clear up, or if it’s in the late fall it might take all winter when things warm up to cure in the spring.

Although clearing of the whiteness can be sped up through the use of a hair-dryer, it’s generally better to do nothing and let it cure out on its own. Blushing typically doesn’t affect the performance on the finish, but is merely a temporary cosmetic headache. Once the finish has cured and cleared, the blushing should not return.

 

Question about your log finish blushing? Contact us here.


https://www.loghelp.com/contact_us.asp

Tuesday, August 11, 2020

Why a Splitting Axe?

 

Gransfors Bruk Splitting AxeThere is satisfaction in processing your own firewood on a brisk autumn day. The smell of the wood, the physical exercise, and the activity outdoors make a fulfilling experience prepping fuel for your fire.

The process of splitting wood is essentially redirecting force. You convert the incredible downward inertia of the heavy steel head and translate that into the horizontal movement of the cloven pieces of wood. The heaver the head and the faster the swing, the more energy you have to work with. The shape of the head determines how much of that energy changes direction.

When it comes to processing firewood by hand, a splitting maul is the workhorse of the block. A thick heavy wedge on a long handle provides for plenty of leverage and heft. Such a tool can divide a large ash log like slicing butter. Although these mauls are excellent for splitting large pieces, they are also laborious to lug around.

Hults Bruk Sarek Splitting AxeIf you are planning on spending a day hiking or camping, and need to haul your tools around with you, a splittingAXE is your best friend. The shorter handle and smaller head make it a much more packable tool, while still giving you a thick wedge and a heavy enough head to split most campfire wood. These features make the splitting axe ideal for wood processing on-the-go.

 

See more about axes and mauls: https://www.loghelp.com/categories/axes-and-mauls.asp




 

Wednesday, April 8, 2020

Using a Froe

By Paul VanKeuren, Customer Service 

Everybody knows what an axe is. Many people know what an adze is. Who knows what a froe is?

A froe is an ‘L’ shaped tool for splitting wood precisely, and the process of splitting wood this way is called riving. This tool is incredibly handy for splitting wood into kindling safely and quickly or even into boards. Boards and shakes created by riving are often stronger and more dimensionally stable than sawn boards. This is because almost all the wood fibers can run all the way from one end of the board to the other. It also is less wasteful, meaning you can get more roof shakes out of a single cedar log.


 To use a froe on short stock, place the tool on the end of the log as shown. Then with a wooden mallet or cudgel, strike the back of the froe to drive it into the log. Once it is well seated in the log, use the handle like a lever and pry the log apart. Never use an axe or metal hammer on a froe, doing so may damage your tools and the shrapnel could hurt someone.


 Straight grained GREEN wood is the best to use a froe on. Knots can make riving quite difficult, but proper placement of the froe and splitting where the wood is straight can help. I have had good results with green ash and some oak. Birch is also excellent, however you will want to cut the bark off or in vertical lines as it will hold the log together when you try to split it. Cedar is the traditional wood for roof shakes/shingles, and riving is also an efficient way to split basswood into smaller blocks for figure carving. It is good to experiment with the different woods you have available.


Monday, April 6, 2020

Carpenter Bee Control for Log Homes

For Log Homes, the large carpenter bees or Xylocopa do the most damage, boring approximately 1/2" diameter tunnels into logs and other wood surfaces including decks, overhangs, fence rails, etc. Carpenter Bee tunnels become a threat for infestation of wood-decaying fungi or other insects, such as carpenter ants.

Treatments: Insecticidal sprays and dusts such as those included in the Carpenter Bee Kit are available. These types of products may need to be applied every couple of weeks for awhile to ensure effectiveness. Liquid spray concentrates like Bee-Gone are diluted in water, and then applied to the structures with a pump-style garden sprayer. Apply them at night while the hive is asleep for maximum impact. Beware that some insecticides have been banned but not yet removed from store shelves. Consider the potential health risks of using such poisons in your home (young children are the most susceptible). If you have an exterminator do the job professionally, find out what they are using and if those insecticides have been banned in your area. If you are having or have had problems with Carpenter bees, consider adding NBS 30 to your finish when you recoat your house again. If chemicals aren't your bag, you can give the kids a project with a couple of fly swatters. The males don't sting and the females are known to be more reluctant to stinging, unlike other bees, wasps, and hornets.

However you choose to rid your logs of carpenter bees, consider spraying Tim-bor or Shell Guard RTU in the tunnels afterwards to help guard against wood-decaying fungi. Just mix up some Tim-bor in a spray bottle, pump sprayer, or squeeze bottle and administer it into the holes. Also, be sure to seal off the tunnel entrances by pounding in wooden dowels or by using Caulking, wood putty, or by mixing WoodEpox and sawdust.

Indelible Ink Pencil

  The Sanford NOBLOT Ink Pencils have been discontinued but have been now replaced with this indelible successor . The lead writes as if ...