Lap Marks in Stains Log and Wood Siding

 Lap Marks:
You can see the definite streak in the finish where one side is lighter than the other side. This happened when the logs were being finished. The applicator stopped at that point (probably at the end of the day) and then resumed later (probably the next morning). The overlap area of the finish will always cause a dark streak in the wall because of the build-up of finish in that particular area.

Prevention: When coating logs with stain or finish, never stop in the middle of a wall. Finish the entire wall before taking a break or quitting for the day. Coating across an entire log is also a good way to prevent lap marks.

Treatment: Other than stripping off the finish, you could go back and try to touch up the area, feathering from darker to lighter. This blending may not completely remove the lap mark but will make it less noticeable.

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

Sashco Log Builder Caulking

 Log Builder Caulking by Sashco is a log home caulking sealant with a limited lifetime warranty. Sashco Log Builder Caulking is designed to meet the demanding sealant needs log homes and is compatible with most construction materials. Sashco Log Builder Caulking is water resistant in 1-4 hours. Sashco Log Builder caulking has superior water resistance. Plus excellent resistance to UV rays. Sashco Log Builder Caulking develops powerful adhesion, remains a rubbery sealant for many years. Not only does Log Builder caulking have powerful adhesion to sound wood - it sticks to a lot more. Granted, you want your sealant to have superior adhesion to all species of wood, but Sashco Log Builder caulking adheres to a variety of surfaces. After all, your log home doesn't just consist of wood. What about windows, doors, and baseboards made of a different material? Sashco Log Builder caulking sticks to most building materials including glass, plastics, and metals. So you can seal around those windows, doors and baseboards effectively. And you can fill checks and cracks since Log Builder caulking adheres to most log home stains and finishes too. Sashco Log Builder caulking has water-based chemistry that is environmentally friendly. All Sashco caulking including Log Builder Caulking is recommended for use with Backer Rod when used with logs. Made in the USA. 

 

Fundamental Caulking Application Guidelines

• Proper substrate preparation and application are imperative for product longevity. Read this entire info sheet (LBR 002) before applying any product. 

• Make certain there is compatibility between your stain and Log Builder. We recommend Sashco’s Capture®/Cascade® or Transformation Stains® for exterior applications and Symphony® interior clear coat for beautiful long-term protection. Best results are obtained when Log Builder is applied to clean, stained wood. Call Sashco at 800-767-5656 for guidance if in doubt. 

• Check the weather forecast. Finishing products are best-applied in moderate weather conditions, i.e., out of direct sunlight, and in dry, warm conditions.. 

• Check the log surface temperature. The surface temperature should be between 40˚F (4˚C) – 90˚F (32˚C). 

• It is always best to use a bond breaker (usually backer rod) before caulking. Sashco strongly recommends the use of backer rod, especially if the home is new and/or the logs are subject to significant movement. If a bond breaker is not used, expect more caulking repairs. 

• Tool Log Builder to help ensure good contact with the log surfaces, especially to the upper log; this will greatly aid adhesion. 

• Ideal sealant depth is 1/2 of the joint width, but no less than 1/4” and no more than 1/2”.

• Assemble tools and equipment: - Backer rod - Caulking guns - Trowels, spatulas, or foam brushes for tooling - Clean water and rags - Plastic sheets to cover the caulking if wet weather moves in - Staple gun & staples

Surface Preparation

Best results are obtained when Log Builder is applied to wood that has been previously coated with a compatible and thoroughly cured stain. In fact, Log Builder has a Limited Lifetime Warranty when applied over any of Sashco’s stains: Capture Log Stain or Transformation Stain. 

If not using a Sashco stain, be sure to confirm its compatibility with Log Builder. If the stain is older but still intact, clean the log surfaces thoroughly to remove dirt, pollen, bird droppings, and other surface contaminants.

The USDA Forest Products Laboratory and other researchers around the world have recently reported that surface wood exposed to sunlight for as little as 1-2 weeks can become significantly damaged and unsound which may lead to premature adhesive failure of coatings. Such surface wood damage has the potential to also hurt Log Builder’s (or any caulk’s) adhesion. Once bare wood has been properly cleaned and prepped to remove unsound wood, stain should be applied as soon as possible. Follow with Log Building caulking.

A few sealers, especially those high in wax content or non-drying oils, may interfere with adhesion. Some of these coatings can hurt any caulk’s adhesion—whether applied before or after the caulk—so we advise against their use. Check with Sashco if you have questions about your particular product.

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

Carpenter Ant Treatment for Log and Wood Homes

Carpenter Ants can sometimes be a problem if wood remains moist and wood rot occurs. If they are a problem, treat with Tim-bor or an approved insecticide. Also look for the cause of the moisture and try to eliminate it. Carpenter ants can enter a building by way of vegetation that may touch the building. To help prevent this, trim bushes and trees touching the building and watch for rotting stumps that could have rotting root systems underground near your building. Insects do not have to be a problem in your log home. Design your building to keep moisture away from it so that moist wood does not encourage insect problems. Stain additives such as Bug Juice or NBS 30 and wood treatments also help to deter problems.

Borate Insecticide for Carpenter Ants

Borate treatments like Tim-bor, Armor-Guard or Sansin Boracol are best applied to bare wood, as they soak into the wood and kill insects that ingest it as well as protect against rot-causing fungus.

Tim-Bor® Professional protects your log home from invasions of carpenter ants, drywood termites, wood decay fungi, and wood boring beetles. Tim-Bor Professional’s active ingredient is Disodium Octaborate Tetrahydrate (DOT), a natural borate mineral salt and micronutrient. It is manufactured for use in the form of a water-soluble borate powder. Once Tim-bor is applied in a liquid form by foaming, misting, or spraying onto wood or other cellulosic materials, the borate active ingredient creates a protective envelope and remains for years of protection. Often, Tim-Bor Professional is dusted into places like wall voids where pests like to hide as an additional protection. When the dust gets on the insects, they clean themselves and consume the boron during the cleaning process. Coverage: 200 sq. ft. per gallon. 5 year shelf life.  

 Armor-Guard is a 100% powder borate wood preservative that you dissolve in water to use. Armor-Guard protects uninfested wood from wood decay and wood destroying insects. Like all borate treatments, your exterior wood surfaces should be protected with a log home finish to seal in the borates. Do not apply Armor-Guard over a stain or finish. Armor-Guard stays near the surface and so should be reapplied if your log home finish is physically or chemically removed. For a more penetrating borate treatment for your log home see Shell-Guard RTU.

Sansin Boracol 20-2 is an inorganic, water-diffusible boron wood treatment that uses boric acid - a natural wood decay inhibitor - to fight fungi and insect infestations. Moisture is an essential ingredient for mold growth, so using a water-borne anti-fungal treatment like Sansin Boracol is particularly effective. The natural moisture of the wood itself carries the boric acid through the wood fibers to saturate and protect any wet areas. With a far wider spectrum of activity than conventional preservatives, it can move deep into timber and even penetrate heartwood. In addition to organic surfaces such as wood, Boracol works to prevent mold on inorganic materials like stone or concrete. Sansin Boracol is effective in preventing and killing dry rot, wet rot, white rot, fungus, or insect attacks. It is recommended for use on roof, floor or structural timbers, joinery, joist ends, brickwork, and door and window framing. Boracol is odorless, non-staining, non-flammable and easy to apply to both new and existing structures 

Stain Additive Insecticides for Carpenter Ants

If there is already a stain or sealer on the log or wood home, then borate insecticides are less of an option. In this situation, it's possible to add insecticide to the finish when adding a new coat of stain or sealer. Bug Juice is one insecticide additive available on the market, and Outlast NBS 30 is an option for a repellent additive.  

Bug Juice Stain Additive is an odorless insecticide designed to eliminate crawling and flying insects ranging from ants to mosquitoes and cockroaches to silverfish. Bug Juice stain additive is a contact pesticide that begins to work after an insect makes contact with the treated finish. Use on interior and exterior surfaces, including kitchens and pantries.

Bug Juice will not affect the color or drying time of the coating it’s mixed with however, it is known to significantly reduce the transparency and gloss of the clear Lifeline Advance Topcoat. The finish mixed with Bug Juice must be used within 3 hours if added to a latex-based (water-based) coating or 6 hours if added to an oil-based coating. For mixing with oil based finishes, Penetrol is recommended. (BugJuice is not recommended for use with ProLuxe (Sikkens) stains and finishes due to a lack of testing). Bug Juice will last for the life of the coating it is mixed with and is EPA registered.

 

Outlast NBS 30 is a "Green" Insect Repellent - Naturally Repels: Carpenter Bees, Ants, Cockroaches, Lady Bugs, Dirt Daubers, Wasps, Spiders, Mosquitoes, and other nuisance insects. 100% Derived from Exempt Plant Oils and Components. Mix with Oil or Latex paints/stains or PLAIN WATER

For Exterior Coatings - Deters and inhibit insects from burrowing through or crawling on exterior coatings and for use in residential applications as well as dairy 

facilities, golf courses, parks, playgrounds, recreational areas, schools, landscape areas, etc. Outlast NBS 30 Additive is effective in controlling crawling and nesting activity on painted or stained surfaces to which it has been added. Ants, cockroaches, beetles, mites, spiders, fleas, ticks, silverfish, dirt daubers, bees and wasps will not crawl on, nest on or burrow through coatings treated with Outlast NBS 30 Additive. Repels nuisance, nesting insects and discourages Carpenter Ants and Bees from drilling and reduces ladybug infestations. Safe for pets and people and will not harm plants (extremely low toxicity). Mixes with oil and water-based paints and stains. Sheen, curing time and luster of the coating may be changed slightly by addition of the additive. Color may be affected very slightly, and would be most noticeable in pure white paint. All natural ingredients. Outlast NBS 30 is NOT an insect killer and is not intended for control of termites or other wood ingesting insects. Sold in pints

Bait Insecticides for Carpenter Ants

 If the wood is not bare for borate application, or no sealer is due to be applied for stain additive insecticides, bait killers are another option. Bait insecticides in the form of granules or gel are often an effective way to eliminate carpenter ants in log homes, as the ants will sense the gel or granule as food and bring it back to share with the colony at the source. Some granules available are Niban and Advance, while Maxforce is a gel form of bait insecticide on the market for protecting log homes and wood homes from damaging insects.

Niban Granule Bait is a weather resistant granule bait for the control of ants and carpenter ants. For both interior and exterior use. Niban’s formula provides broader protection inside and outside the home. Unlike other granules Niban will not degrade in heat or sunlight and will last through 4” of rain.Advance Granule Ant Bait is a larger granule so only the large carpenter ants can manage it. Special attractants and pellet size make this the most effective carpenter ant bait on the market. For use inside and outside the home. Kills Carpenter Ants and many common varieties of household ants such as Acrobat, Argentine, Bigheaded, Crazy, Field, Fire, Harvester, Lasius, Little Black, Pavement, Pharaoh, Odorous House and Thief Ants.

Maxforce Carpenter Ant Bait Gel is the "honeydew" attractant of this sweet gel bait will draw carpenter ants within minutes. For interior use. Makes about 40 placements. 27 gram container.

 

 

Avoid Peeling Finishes and Sunburned Logs

In this photo you can see the finish has blistered, cracked, and is starting to peel. This has happened because the finish has lost its adhesion. (Notice the top area where the log has become sunburned and turned gray).

One of the factors for peeling is the moisture content of the logs when they were coated. If the logs were too wet (20% or higher), the logs will continue to dry out and as they dry the resident moisture will move from the center of the log outwards to the surface. The moisture will form on the surface of the log between the finish and the wood. If the finish is very thick and heavy, a blister will form because the moisture can't pass through the barrier of the finish. If your logs are still quite green, we suggest that you apply only one coat of a log keeper finish, such as TM5 First Treat or Colorfast. This will give the logs some protection while still allowing the moisture to escape out through the one coat of finish. Once the logs have dried out to 19% or less, then you can apply your final finish. You can test the moisture content of your logs with a Moisture Meter. Also, moisture can also occur from checks holding water. When heat from the sun reaches and heats the log’s surface, the moisture is pulled to the surface causing a break in the wood-to-finish adhesion.

Any type of finish, either oil or water based can peel. Remember, it is the amount of finish build up that will provide the potential for peeling. Penetrating finishes tend to peel less because instead of acting like a plastic coating on the logs, they don't build up into one thick coating (less "plastic") thus, allowing moisture to escape out through the thinner coating. They do tend to weather away over time and will need to be re-coated periodically to maintain their protective qualities.

The gray, sunburned area on the top of the log shown in the picture is a result of prolonged, direct sunlight. This can be prevented in new construction by extending the eaves and overhangs to allow for more protection from the sun. Also, avoid using clear finishes alone because they provide less UV protection from the sun. You could also plant shade trees to help deflect the direct sunlight.

If your logs are sunburned you can typically get by with sanding down the sunburned areas with 60-80 grit and then reapplying your finish. You will need to reapply the same number of coats as the rest of the wall to match the color of the rest of the wall. Tip: When you are reapplying the finish to match the rest of the wall it is better to apply too much and make the sanded areas look darker then to not add enough so they look lighter. The darker areas will tend to look natural where lighter areas will stick out and look distinctively unnatural.

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

 

 

 

 

Sapstain Control

 

Sapstain Control is the use of specially formulated wood treatment products that are used to protect peeled logs from mold and stain causing fungi. Mold, mildew, and sapstain increase the wood's ability to hold water, thus increasing chances of decay.

Tips for Applying Sapstain Control Logs should be decked at least two feet above ground level. Keep the area under the logs free of grass, weeds, or anything that would prevent air circulation. Leave space between logs to allow air circulation. Apply the sapstain control late in the day so there is less chance of evaporation before it has penetrated the log surface.

Note: Timber-Tec and TM-5 are compatible with borate based products like PeneTreat (see Tim-bor), however, Tim-bor should be applied FIRST. If the sapstain control has already been applied to the logs, the preferred method is to apply Tim-bor after the final rinse before applying finish to maximize the amount of material in the wood.

Why Use Sapstain Control? As house logs or timbers are peeled or sawn, their surfaces are susceptible to sapstain fungi. Fungi are tiny, threadlike organisms, which utilize wood, or carbohydrates stored in wood cells, for food. Besides food, fungi require the presence of air (oxygen), water and warm temperatures to survive and grow. These fungi, as they move through the wood, can leave behind a colored stain of blue, black, red or brown. It is most commonly known as Blue Stain. This enhanced cross section outlines the sapstain inside the wood. A sapstain control product was used to stop the sapstain from reaching the outer surface.   These are Permanent discolorations and can be either an asset or a detriment, depending on expectations. These stains do not affect the wood's strength, but it is nature´s first step at preparing wood for future rot. This sapstain occurs in the wood while mildew (black) or mold (white) grows on the surface of logs or timbers and aids in the absorption of water into the wood. To help prevent these fungi from entering wood, spray the wood within 24 hours after peeling with Timber-Tec, TM-5, or another sapstain control. Do not spray prior to rain, for the spray will be washed off or diluted. One last note is that species like Balsam Fir, Spruce, and Cedar are not as susceptible to sapstain as are the pines. Aspen and high moisture woods may need higher concentrations of sapstain control and more frequent applications.  Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 1101 SE 7th Avenue Grand Rapids MN 55744 www.loghelp.com

Armor-Guard Borate Preservative

 Armor-Guard is a 100% powder borate wood preservative that you dissolve in water to use. Armor-Guard protects uninfested wood from wood decay and wood destroying insects. Like all borate treatments, your exterior wood surfaces should be protected with a log home finish to seal in the borates. Do not apply Armor-Guard over a stain or finish. Armor-Guard stays near the surface and so should be reapplied if your log home finish is physically or chemically removed. For a more penetrating borate treatment for your log home see Shell-Guard RTU.

Remedial & Preventative Treatment: for remedial control of organisms attacking wood, apply 10% aqueous solution of Armor-Guard by brush or spay until surface is thoroughly wet (approximately 5 gallons of solution per 1000 sq.ft.). Application may also be made by drilling and then injecting the solution under pressure into sound wood or until run-off is observed from entry/exit holes of infested wood. * Alternatively, apply Armor-Guard powder to infested members by drill and injection into galleries or dust generously on wood surfaces and in wall voids at a rate of approximately 0.5 ounces (12-14 grams) per square foot.

Pre-Treatment: spray or powder/dust applications of Armor-Guard may also be made to wood during construction. Apply solution to all accessible surfaces of bare wood at a rate of approximately 5 gallons per 1000 sq.ft. Application should be performed after framing and roofing are in place and before insulation and dry wall are installed. Avoid spaying electrical components. Protect treated wood from excessive rain. End-cuts of wood may also be treated by spray or brush methods listed above, or by 5 minute dipping in Armor-Guard treatment solution.

Armor-Guard Protects Against:

• Ambrosia Beetles, Carpenter Ants, False Powder Post Beetles, Furniture and Deathwatch Beetles, Longhorn Beetles, Old House Borers, & Powder Post Beetles
• Termites: Dampwood, Drywood, & Subterranean
• Wood Decay Fungi

Features and Benefits

• Can be used on all wood and wood composites
• Provides a shell of protection around all treated wood
• Will prevent and kill termites, carpenter ants, wood boring beetles and wood rot
• Does not affect the color of wood
• Does not interfere with the application of high quality wood finishes
• Is easy to mix and apply and labeled for home owners to use
• EPA approved

Application Temperature: 40° to 90° F.
Coverage: Approximately 200 sq. ft. per gal. of mixed solution. A 17 lb. pail covers approximately 3,400 sq. ft.
Coats: 1 coat application. Mix 1 pound (4 cups or 2 of the enclosed scoops) of powder with one gallon of water.
Surface Prep: Must be clean dry bare wood. Do not apply over a finish.
Drying Time: 1-3 days. Clean up: Soap and Water
Shelf Life: 5 years; the stability of Armor-Guard in a liquid solution has a limited life cycle. This is why we recommend to mix up only what you're going to use and store the powder for later.

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744

www.loghelp.com

 

Log Gap Cap Installation

The Log Gap Cap™ reduces air infiltration where round logs meet window and door trim. The small are designed to work with 6" to 8" diameter logs, the large fits 9" to 11" logs. The Log Gap Cap's uniform shape fits most log profiles. With an easy scissor cut along the flat side, they work in log siding applications. Engineered from 3/4" closed cell flexible foam, it compresses and remains in place with little or no caulking required. Its smooth surface on one side allows easy caulking if desired. The material is resistant to mold, rot, bacteria, and will not absorb moisture. Made in the USA. Available in 10 packs and 50 count boxes.

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Pickup in store - or ship to your door -in whichever woods your cabin dwells.

 Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc. 

1101 SE 7th Avenue

Grand Rapids MN 55744

1-800-359-6614

Tips for Rotted Logs

 Tips For Rotted Logs

For restoring log ends like the ones pictured and maintaining the natural gray patina of the logs.

1. First, use a borate product like PeneTreat (see Tim-bor) to saturate the logs and keep them from rotting any further.
2. Next, use LiquidWood to seal cracks and create an undercoating for the WoodEpox to adhere to.
3. Then, use new lumber or a piece of straight grained salvaged or similar material to cut a "plug" to fill the cavity.
4. Saturate the plug with Tim-bor.
5. After the Tim-bor has dried, coat the plug with Liquid Wood, insert the plug and use WoodEpox to finish filling in around the plug and the cavity wall. Note you can use Liquid Wood and sawdust to create a putty or a paste to fill the cavity as well.
6. You can use a charcoal colored masonry pigment (available from masonry stores). Just add enough of the pigment to color the WoodEpox gray like the rest of the building. Just knead it in with the WoodEpox. Remember, you only have to color the last 1/2" of the end of the log.
7. Use an end grain sealer like Log End Seal to seal the ends of the wood.

To add strength and stability to these log ends without replacing them with new crowns: Drill 1' from the log end back horizontally into the more stable wood and use 1' lengths of Fiberglass Reinforcement Rods to act as an internal strength pin. Use the Liquid Wood as a glue around the rod. You should use at least three rods per log.

To hide the end of the rods, you can cut a wooden end plug coated with LifeTime (LifeTime will turn the new wood gray to match the rest of the building).

Note: You can also spray the entire building with LifeTime to keep it gray. What is really nice about the LifeTime is that it is a one time application. You can also use products like Sansin WoodForce Clear, Outlast Q8 Log Oil 00 Clear, Woodguard or WR-5 Clear as a water protection for the building.

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744

www.loghelp.com

 

Sansin Timber-Tec Chinking

 Sansin Timber-Tec Chinking - A revolution in chinking technology. Log homes move and settle like no other buildings. That’s why Timber-Tec Chinking is engineered for zero shrinkage while accommodating up to 400% elongation so that as your house moves it will continue to be tightly sealed against the weather. Timber-Tec Chinking is odorless, cures to exposure in just one hour, and is easy to apply even in cold temperatures. Timber-Tec Chinking is designed for application in very dynamic joints. It is solvent free, non-shrinking, and its unique cure chemistry allows application down to 30° F. Made in Canada.

 

 

 

Application Temp:	30°F +.
Method:	For these sausage packs, use the Cox Bulk Gun with the factory installed blue cup or a Newborn Bulk Gun. You can spray 99% isopropyl alcohol as you apply and spread chinking in the joint. Don't use water as this promotes faster curing.
Surface Preparation	Inspect bonding surfaces for defects or deterioration or insect damage. Clean all dirt, debris, oil or previous chinking with ammonia water or alcohol. Do not clean with petroleum distillates or detergents, which leave a residue that would interfere with adhesion. See Technical Data for details.
Drying Time	Cure begins when it comes in contact with air, resealing the package will not stop the curring process so it is necessary to plan accordingly. Skin over in about 40 minutes at room temperature. Hot and humid conditions can accelerate skin over time to as little as 20 minutes. See Technical Data for details.
Shelf Life:	1 year. Store at room temperature. Freeze-thaw stable (not damaged by freezing).
Cleanup:	Soapy water/Alcohol mixture.

 

 

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744

www.loghelp.com 

Backer Rod and Chinking Log Homes

Backer Rod and Chinking Part 2

Chinking a log home is not a difficult process. Once you get over the awkwardness of learning how to "gun the product" onto the logs and then get the "feel" of tooling the product you will pick up speed and find satisfaction in having a part in finishing your home. This article covers the basics of how to chink a log home, but before starting your project in earnest, request and read a Data Tech that goes into greater detail.

Proper Joint Design Last month’s article briefly touched on the reason why backer rod is needed—to serve as a bond breaker. The following illustrations graphically depict why 2-point adhesion is so important for the performance of any chinking or caulking product. Synthetic chinking is formulated to be flexible, but as the drawings demonstrate it can fully flex to absorb log movement only if a bond breaker is installed down the center of the joint.

      

 

 

Surface Preparation For chinking to establish good adhesion to the logs, they must be clean—free of dirt, pollen, uncured oils, sawdust, and other loose materials. The surface temperature of the logs should be between 40°-90° Fahrenheit. The liquids in the chinking "wet out the surface" of the logs so that the chinking can establish good adhesion. If the log surface is colder than 40° the wood pores tighten up not allowing for proper wetting out of the surface. Conversely, when the wood temperature is higher than 90°, the liquids evaporate off too quickly, adversely affecting adhesion.

Most people like contrast in color between their chinking and their stain; therefore, staining prior to chinking is necessary to achieve this look. It is also easier to tool chinking if it is applied to a stained surface, but you must be certain that the stain and chinking are compatible, and that the stain has had sufficient cure time.

Many stains on the market contain waxes and stearates that can interfere with adhesion of chinking and caulking. Usually, companies that manufacture both chinking and stains make certain that their products are compatible, and attempt to enhance their stains for even better adhesion of their chinking and caulking products. If your chinking and stain are manufactured by 2 different companies, call and ask if testing has been done for compatibility and request a copy of their test results.

Application Chinking is packaged in 5-gallon pails and quart tubes, although for larger jobs, 5-gallon pails are more economical. When using 5-gallon pails there are a number of application methods that can be used. You can use a trowel, grout bag, bulk loading gun, or a commercial pumping system that pumps out the chinking material in a continuous flow, making it easier to apply.

There are a variety of different sized nozzles available in both round and slot styles. For smaller beads, a round style nozzle works well but for wider joints the slot style nozzles are the only way to go. In selecting your nozzle size be aware that the depth of the bead of caulk should be half the size of the width of the joint, but never thinner than a 1/4" or thicker than 1/2"; i.e., for a joint 1" wide the bead depth should be 3/8" to 1/2".

Apply the chinking material down the center of the joint, over the backer rod and overlapping slightly onto the surface of both logs. Only apply enough product down the length of the log that you can reasonably tool before it starts to skin over. As you become accustomed to tooling you will be able to run longer beads.

Tooling There are as many tooling implements out there as there are chinkers! I prefer the polyethylene foam brushes available in any hardware store or lumber yard but I have seen folks tool with rubber spatulas, paint brushes, putty knives, trowels, and even metal spatulas cut down with wire cutters to the desired width. The secret is finding the tool that works best for you. You will also need a pail of clean water, a sponge, and a spray bottle filled with clean water. To speed up the tooling process, have several foam brushes on hand. As soon as one picks up too much chinking and starts to drag instead of gliding over the surface, throw it into the water pail and continue on with a clean brush. A mixture of 1 part denatured alcohol to 2 parts water can be used for misting chinking when the temperature is over 70°. If you are working in the sun and the chinking is skinning over too quickly, straight alcohol can be used. When the temperature is lower than 70° the alcohol is not necessary.

Using a damp polyethylene foam brush, holding the foam portion parallel to the bead, gently press the bead into place. You don't want to drag the foam brush down the bead but instead, section by section press the foam brush against the bead. The next step is the actual tooling. Using the spray bottle, lightly mist the chinking with water to allow the brush to glide over the surface. Do not apply too much water, or the latex in the chinking will run down the logs. If this happens, just wipe off with a damp sponge or rag. The idea is to smooth out the ripples caused by gunning, but most importantly, to feather the bead out onto the top and bottom logs at least 1/4" so that the chinking is tooled tightly to the log surfaces.

Clean-up and Disposal To properly dispose of unused chinking material, it is good practice to understand and follow all of your state and local regulations on clean-up and disposal. Do not dispose of chinking material in drinking water supplies. However, for easy clean-up water may be used for cleaning hands, surfaces and equipment. Toxic solvents are not required for chinking material clean-up.

Warning! As you finish your chinking and stand back to admire your work . . . ugh! Blisters! Blisters are a phenomenon commonly found after applying chinking. They form when moisture from the chinking accumulates in voids beneath the bead and the heat from the sun causes the blister to appear as "bubble" in the chinking. To avoid these blisters, use a white tarp to shield freshly chinked walls from the sun. If this is not possible, keep a close eye on the chinked wall for the first 24-48 hours. If a blister pops up, just puncture a hole in the middle of it and gently push the chinking back into place. Then after 3-5 days you can repair the blister by applying a small portion of chinking material into the hole.

Cure Time After the chinking process is completed, allow it to cure for one week if you will be painting over it with oil or latex paints, total cure-through is 28 days. Just one last suggestion that I picked up from a professional chinker: Hang a small board with several beads of the chinking in a conspicuous area with a sign inviting people to satisfy their need to touch. Hopefully, this will keep them from satisfying their curiosity on the chinking courses of your home!

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744

www.loghelp.com 

 

Backer Rod for Log Home Chinking

 

Backer Rod and Chinking Part 1 & 2

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Part 1

As the warm weather begins, its the time of year when we start thinking about chinking our log homes. The first step of caulking or chinking is applying Backer Rod. The *Log Core will take you through a two part series of Backer Rod and Chinking. We will begin this series with backer rod of all types.

Backer Rod is a synthetic foam that comes in a variety of shapes and sizes from 1/4" up to 5". The reason why Backer Rod needs to be placed in joints is that it acts as a bond breaker, which provides a surface that chinking won't adhere to. Eventually, the chinking will free itself from the backer and will move with the logs as they expand or shrink. Backer Rod also serves by adding an insulation value and reduces the amount of material needed.

Grip Strip backer rod provides an excellent fit with a flat working surface and is a closed cell product that repels water. As a chinking applicator for a restoration company for 7 years in Northern Minnesota, I have found this material is the easiest and quickest to use. No tools are necessary and it follows with the curvature of the logs. This product really grips to the logs and stays in place.

SOF Rod can be described as an open cell, extruded polyethylene foam. SOF Rod is extruded to leave an impermeable shell to prevent moisture from entering the side. Advantages of this backer are that it is very flexible and is easy to install. Smaller sizes are offered to fit those really tight joints. When choosing a size, the diameter should be approximately 25% larger than the joint because of the compressibility. Precautions to take are not to puncture or stretch during application. This may cause out gassing. In smaller joints a blunt tool may be needed to push backer further into the joint to allow the required amount of chinking. This material is easier to work with for smaller size joints.

Closed Cell backer rod is a closed cell polyethylene round foam that also runs in a continuous length. Compared to the SOF Rod this backer is firm, but just as easy to install. Again a blunt tool may be needed to push backer deeper into the joint to allow the required amount of chinking.

Open Cell Backer Rod is easy to work with also. It is soft and compresses to fit most size joints. This product is breathable which allows for a faster cure, but recommended in the interior. This is because it will absorb water. If used on the exterior, only put in the amount of open cell that you think will get done in one day so the exposed backer will not draw in moisture. Note: the use of a blunt tool when installing backer rod to the exterior logs will prevent punctures to the surface of the rod and minimize chink blistering caused by trapped water vaporizing under direct heat from exposure to the sun.

For smaller joints where backer rod can not fit, but yet there may be a gap, a mylar tape or strapping tape may be used. This too will serve as a bond-breaker to allow the material to release itself from the tape and move with logs as they settle and shrink. If applying chinking over old mortar, a bond-breaker tape should be applied as well. Packing tape or duct tape are two examples that will work for this situation.

If the backer seems to keep popping out, a smaller backer or a different style of backer is needed. You should never have to nail Backer Rod to keep in place. The most common mistake about choosing Backer Rod is selecting a backer that is too big for the joint. When this happens, the backer keeps coming out or you are left with a chinked joint that is larger than it needs to be. I recommend to take advantage of the samples we have to try different styles and sizes. Keep in mind that you may require a number of different styles and sizes for your particular project.

*Backer Rod and Chinking Part 1 (courtesy of Denise Carlson, Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.)

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744

www.loghelp.com 

 

How to Use a Follow Plate

How to Use a Follow Plate

Remove front cap of caulk gun and wet the end of gun with water or release agent (50% water and 50% denatured alcohol). Spray or pull water into the gun chamber to lubricate the interior.

 

1. Seat the follow plate firmly on the surface of caulk or chinking.
2. Attach the caulk gun to the follow plate and lock the push rod.
3. Pull up slowly to draw the caulk or chinking up inside the barrel until filled.

 Albion & Cox Follow Plates are available.

 

Albion Follow Plate

With your gun screwed on, the Follow Plate allows for easy pressure-feed filling and refilling of caulk or chinking from 5-gallon pails. For straight or tapered  pails. (Conceal, Log Builder, and Log Jam are tapered as of March 1st, 2015). Works with Albion and Newborn bulk loading guns. Made of sheet metal.

 

 

 

Albion Slip On Follow Plate

Quick Push-On, Pull-Off Seal Feature. No Threading Required!

• For 3 & 5 Gallon Pails (Minimum ID 9-7/8” - Maximum ID 11-3/8”).
• Fits all 2” diameter B-Line Bulk and Sausage Guns (models B12Bxx, B26Bxx, B12Sxx, B18Sxx, etc.) and Pro Professional Line (DL-45, DL-59, etc) Bulk Guns. (Sold Separately.)
• Includes a pull rod for easy removal of Follow Plate from pail.
• Steel plates sandwich a nitrile gasket that scrapes the inside of 3 or 5-gallon pail clean.
• Designed to minimize clean up, material waste, and exposure to air.
• Keeps gun barrel clean and prevents air from entering gun barrel during loading.

Cox Follow Plate

The Cox Follow Plate works with Albion, Cox, and Newborn bulk loading caulk guns. It is designed to work with both straight and tapered 5 gallon pails. The rubber gasket edge seal makes for exceptional ease of use. Pull rod included. See How to Use a Follow Plate.  

 

 

 

 

 

Questions on maintaining the legacy of your wood structure? Give us a call- 1-800-359-6614

Schroeder Log Home Supply, Inc.
1101 SE 7th Avenue
Grand Rapids MN 55744

www.loghelp.com